Is Oil filter "location" important?

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I always used ot have a mechanic that said the following: "You can put on any filter in this car, since the oil filter does not really do anything. On this engine, they put it in a spot where the oil does not really get to the filter. So you can get any filter you want, it does not really do as much as you think it would, it does not do aything at least on this engine."

Was he right, or wrong Please educate me. Thank you1

Thinking about it, i could see where he would be "right." if the filter was in an out-of-the-way sot, unless the oil was FORCED to flow through itsomehow (?) maybe it would be an "inefficient" filter design.. and i forget the car, its been too long for me to make an accurate gyess about what car he was talking about, but your thoughts on this topic?

car from the 80s or 90s, thats for sure.
 
Hi.

Unfortunately, that is absolutely wrong. The engine's lubrication system is devised in a way to forced oil through the filter, wherever it may be. That's why cars/motorcycles have what we call "forced sump" lubrication. The oil pump is driven off the engine. If oil wasn't being pumped through the filter first, then it could damage the engine. Particles such as impurities, metal shavings, etc. need to be filtered through the oil filter before the oil arrives at critical engine parts.

Inefficient filter placement is a more plausible argument, but each manufacturer places the filter in a certain place and orientation for different needs. But the fact of the matter is; oil will always be pumped through the filter. If manufacturers did not do that, then they would have plenty of problems on their hand. They may be upside down, on top of the engine, on the bottom of the engine, mounted to the side, right side up; it doesn't matter all too much. Really.
 
+1 - that's one of the most ignorant things I've ever heard...wherever the filter is mounted, the oil system is forcing ALL the oil through it...the mounting locations may be odd for the convenience of fitting it in the engine bay or some other consideration...but it's working regardless...
 
Was it not true that some of the first oil filters were used only as bypass when pressures was higher than some psi? Maybe that is what he was alluding to.
 
Pretty much all the mainstream engine manufacturer have used full-flow oil filters since the 50s, so unless it was some very obscure foreign car, he's dead wrong. For example, EVERY American car since lets say 1960 has a full-flow filter that gets oil directly from the pump and then sends it to the engine. None bypasses the filter unless the filter itself clogs and goes into bypass mode.

Some engines put the filter in silly places and pointed them silly directions (eg. the slant-six that had the filter mounted base-down and then used a "standpipe" that stuck up inside the center of the filter to help prevent drainback). But they all used full-flow.

Prior to the 50s, things weren't so uniform. Some engines didn't even have full-pressure oiling systems (Chevy 'Stovebolt' six) and had "dippers" on the connecting rod caps. Others had full-pressure oiling systems, but the filter wasn't full-flow, meaning that only a portion of the oil passed thru the filter and was then returned to the pan. Others had no filter at all.
 
He also used to talk about "The point spread" in oil, as the "20 point spread" being the prime reason people used 10w30 motor oil and that it was ok to use it instead of 10W-40 (we used to put 10W-40 in everything, did very very well too, was worried when cars started to say "use 10w30" even though it turns out they always did and us using 10W-40 was always perceived as "thick".. i didnt know that based on our first car that ran up over 350,000 miles on 10W-40) and how "It has more actual oil in it. the less spread means less viscosity improvers ar ein it, so more actual oil is in the oil."

5w30 was always: "Well, its a 25 point spread. But it pours out liek water. Use 10w30."

This played a key development on my oil perceptions, as well as use of 10W-40. and i always seemed to observe that 5w30 would burn off in an engine in summer, whereas 10w30 wouldnt, or not as much.. and 10W-40 wouldnt use at all.

Thoughts on this, related to oil ? Same mechanic,, lol

FWIW, the '03 Trailblazer 4.2 SHOULD be etting 10w30 oil in it, from this guy. Most likely a Castrol dino.

Most likely................

(and last but not least, he used to say "As an engine gets more worn, go up to a 40 weight oil. And if it gets really really worn, use a 50 weight oil. Whatever keeps the compression up."

Right? Wrong? im just now thinking about all the stuff he said. he fixed a lot of our cars, some failed pretty bad too - Head Gasket, lol.)
 
Um I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but unless its a foam sock of unusual size, your spin on runs in partial bypass mode all the time.

you can get new mounts from places like summit that have no bypass valve, but like I alluded to, it had better be a LARGE filter with a lot of non restrictive area.

(ps: when very very cold, until the oil warms, NO oil flows thru the filter)
 
The optional by-pass filters of the late 40's and early 50's use some of the oil from the oil pump to filter oil all the time as mentioned. It wasn't a 'bad' system, some semi trucks have a similar system. The filters weren't up to modern standards so 'better than nothing' is the way it was back then.
Spin-on filters showed up in 57, 58. They were a marked improvement.
All were pressurized systems though.
That guy was full of beans as regards to oil filters.

As far as moving to heavier oil as engines wear, yeah, a heavy oil will slow or stop oil burning, if that's the problem.
In California, that might work.
 
Wow what he said is pretty ridiculous. So just because the filter is in a "remote" location, that oil won't flow through it?

How does coolant get to the heater core then?
 
Originally Posted By: QuadDriver
Um I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but unless its a foam sock of unusual size, your spin on runs in partial bypass mode all the time.

you can get new mounts from places like summit that have no bypass valve, but like I alluded to, it had better be a LARGE filter with a lot of non restrictive area.

(ps: when very very cold, until the oil warms, NO oil flows thru the filter)



Ummm... No. To everything you wrote. Use the search function and find where people here have MEASURED the across-filter pressure drop (PSID- PSI differential) and compared it to the bypass valve setting. Filter bypass valves almost *never* open, unless you use 20w50 conventional oil, have a high-volume oil pump and loose or full-groove racing type bearings, and then rev it to redline first thing on a sub-freezing morning.

What you are describing actually does happen on WWII vintage aircraft, where at times the oil in the oil *coolers* can get so cold it won't flow (they call it "coring the coolers") and the oil inside the engine gets too hot as a result... but those things use straight 50-weight oil (or heavier) and operate up where the air is well below 0.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum



Ummm... No. To everything you wrote. Use the search function and find where people here have MEASURED the across-filter pressure drop (PSID- PSI differential) and compared it to the bypass valve setting. Filter bypass valves almost *never* open, unless you use 20w50 conventional oil, have a high-volume oil pump and loose or full-groove racing type bearings, and then rev it to redline first thing on a sub-freezing morning.

What you are describing actually does happen on WWII vintage aircraft, where at times the oil in the oil *coolers* can get so cold it won't flow (they call it "coring the coolers") and the oil inside the engine gets too hot as a result... but those things use straight 50-weight oil (or heavier) and operate up where the air is well below 0.



no, what I am describing is what occurs to any motor that does not use a sock filter or an exceedingly large spin on accompanied by a differnt type of filer mount appliance.

do not confuse the oil pump bypass, with the oil filter boss bypass, or even the oil filter bypass - some applications have all 3.

fwiw, the oil filter bypass in the SBC opens at 10psi.

you need to consider the volume of oil pumped PER MINUTE.

you hear the old phrase 'xxxx takes the path of less resistance', well oil, like electricity takes ALL paths. some more than others. with the actual amount flowing due to the oil filter bypass and the total volume actually pumped per minute, all oil essential hits the filter each minute, just not in the manner in which most people think it does.

google up 'grumpysperformance', its a website with hundreds of drawings, charts, millions of links and dispells all the myths I encounter here regarding where oil goes in an engine and what it does. Of get a few hipo rebuilding books for the manufacturer of your choice.

But please dont think the wussy little spin-on on your engine has all the oil pass thru it.
 
Yeah, that point spread idea will get you nowhere. Reading more about what people here think about oil and asking questions will get you the information you need. So keep it up.

The one thing he said that makes some sense is the last part about using thicker oil in a engine gets worn. But its only right in a very limited way. That is, if you have a failing engine and can't get it fixed, you might be able to keep it running for a bit more time using thicker oil. I could see this working for a failing oil pump, and a oil leak to a very minor extent. Maybe someone's seen it work for slightly low compression... I'm just a guy with a car, I don't know.

As far as thinking that 'pouring like water' is bad, that's pretty ignorant in most cases. Every situation is different, but most people assume that certain details are typical. The first assumption is that the owner will change the oil as needed. If you follow this rule, you'll have no issues with any oil that you find at the store.

I used to use 15-40 truck oil in all my 5-30 cars because I thought thicker was better and I liked the gallon jugs. I know for sure that I wasn't doing any harm because I had it tested. I do run 5w30 (with some 5-20) oil, and don't drive it nearly as far between changes as I used to. Even if I still knew basically zilch about oil, my cars would still be working just fine.
 
Originally Posted By: QuadDriver
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum



Ummm... No. To everything you wrote. Use the search function and find where people here have MEASURED the across-filter pressure drop (PSID- PSI differential) and compared it to the bypass valve setting. Filter bypass valves almost *never* open, unless you use 20w50 conventional oil, have a high-volume oil pump and loose or full-groove racing type bearings, and then rev it to redline first thing on a sub-freezing morning.

What you are describing actually does happen on WWII vintage aircraft, where at times the oil in the oil *coolers* can get so cold it won't flow (they call it "coring the coolers") and the oil inside the engine gets too hot as a result... but those things use straight 50-weight oil (or heavier) and operate up where the air is well below 0.



no, what I am describing is what occurs to any motor that does not use a sock filter or an exceedingly large spin on accompanied by a differnt type of filer mount appliance.

do not confuse the oil pump bypass, with the oil filter boss bypass, or even the oil filter bypass - some applications have all 3.

fwiw, the oil filter bypass in the SBC opens at 10psi.

you need to consider the volume of oil pumped PER MINUTE.

you hear the old phrase 'xxxx takes the path of less resistance', well oil, like electricity takes ALL paths. some more than others. with the actual amount flowing due to the oil filter bypass and the total volume actually pumped per minute, all oil essential hits the filter each minute, just not in the manner in which most people think it does.

google up 'grumpysperformance', its a website with hundreds of drawings, charts, millions of links and dispells all the myths I encounter here regarding where oil goes in an engine and what it does. Of get a few hipo rebuilding books for the manufacturer of your choice.

But please dont think the wussy little spin-on on your engine has all the oil pass thru it.


I understand the difference between pressure relief valves, built-in-the-filter bypass valves, and the internal bypass valves in the filter perfectly well. I'm talking about ANY valve that bypasses the oil *filter* and sends unfiltered oil from the oil pump to the engine... NOT about the pressure regulator valve that opens when the oil pressure hits 40 (or 70, or 80, or whatever) PSI and dumps the extra oil the pump is moving but isn't needed to maintain oil pressure BACK to the engine.

Please don't think the "wussy" little spin-on is ever in bypass under normal circumstances. It may have a bypass valve that opens at 10 PSI, but even a smallblock chevy running at 4000 RPM and 40 PSI of oil pressure probably only has a 1-2 PSID *across* the oil filter media. My two 440s with their high volume oil pumps and running 70 PSI of indicated oil pressure also have a 1-3 PSID drop across the media of the PL30001 filters I use.

The bypass valve should almost *never* open. Even with "small" oil filters, if they are properly sized to the engine. I'm sure the teacup sized stock filter on my wife's PT Cruiser is perfectly adequate to pass the full oil flow required by the non-turbo 2.4 with less than a 5 PSID drop.

Again, I refer you to tests documented on *this* site which indicate that filters installed in engines have very *small* PSI Differential across the filter. Tests you find on the web where they pump oil through a filter and then into an open pan (no restrictions such as bearings, lifters, etc. DOWNSTREAM of the filter) are completely UNrepresentative of what happens in an engine. In a real engine, the total pressure inside the filter is high, but the restriction that generates the back-pressure is caused BY THE CLEARANCES IN THE ENGINE, and NOT by the filter. The engine's oil flow restrictions downstream of the filter keep the total flow volume well below what the filter can handle without bypassing any oil.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
[Again, I refer you to tests documented on *this* site which indicate that filters installed in engines have very *small* PSI Differential across the filter. Tests you find on the web where they pump oil through a filter and then into an open pan (no restrictions such as bearings, lifters, etc. DOWNSTREAM of the filter) are completely UNrepresentative of what happens in an engine. In a real engine, the total pressure inside the filter is high, but the restriction that generates the back-pressure is caused BY THE CLEARANCES IN THE ENGINE, and NOT by the filter. The engine's oil flow restrictions downstream of the filter keep the total flow volume well below what the filter can handle without bypassing any oil.




I have not seen these 'tests', nor looked for them, but I sould have to ask, where exactly did they measure these drops? engines dont have a lot of test ports.

since I have given you a link to the full flow circuit for the SBC, follow it, count all the places oil loss is going to occur.

better yet, get a remote filter adaptor, the one that takes the PH8 (FL1) sized filter. route the outlet to a bucket. heat up a number of quarts of oil to 200*, force into the inlet using an air bladder. tell us how long it takes 1 qt to exit. take this time figure and multiply by 4, that is the rate for 1 gallon. Is it conducive to may gallons per minute? If not, then clearly something inside the motor is dong something you didnt expect.

now dont heat the oil. let it sit at room temp, or better yet, take cold oil and pour it into the 'outside' holes. a few hours later, it will be in the inside. If we relied on the filter as part of the flow path, cold engines would have long seized
 
Originally Posted By: QuadDriver


I have not seen these 'tests', nor looked for them, but I sould have to ask, where exactly did they measure these drops? engines dont have a lot of test ports.


You can plumb gauges in on both sides of a remote filter adaptor VERY easily. If the upstream gauge reads 42 PSI and the downstream one reads 40 PSI, then you have 2 PSID across the filter, FAR below its 10 PSI relief valve setting.

The thing is, all those points of oil loss inside an engine (be it a small-block Chevy or a big-block Mopar) expel a LOT less oil at 75 PSI than intuition would make you think. That's why a power drill being used to prime an engine after assembly virtually locks up solid when the oiling system pressurizes.

But there's no point in theorizing, speculating, hand waving, and reading a bunch of old-school guesses and myths... here's a great thread by Gary Allan:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/335756/

Using 15w40 on a cold start, he measured 12 PSID, which drops to 3-4 PSID after a few minutes. So after a brief period of being in partial bypass with a dead-cold engine, the bypass valve closes and ALL the oil goes through the filter media.

End of story based on actual measurements, not guesswork.
 
Your mechanic is relying on some really, really old thinking.

In the 1970's, wide-spread oils weren';t the best, b/c they need large amount of unstable VII's to make the spread. The old VII's did break down and sludge-up in the engines.

These days, with group II and group II+ base oils, it's not an issue anymore - but you also don't see as many 10W-40's and 10W-50's as you used to.

Also, early 5w30's were more volatile and did burn up faster thn other oils - but that is not at all true today.
 
The VERSA and SUZUKI have oil filters that are in a tight / hard to reach spot for oil changes . Could make for a messy O.C.. I always crawl under a car we're considering to buy to see how easy the oil filter is to get access to .
 
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one time i built a chrysler 392 hemi race engine. the only place i could put a oil filter was 4 ft away from the stock oil place. used two long hoses. had NO trouble.
 
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