Is my starter dying?

[Towncivilian]

For the past few days, about half the time when I start to crank, there is nothing. No sound or click... just maybe the high-pitched drone of the fuel pump beginning to pump, if I recall correctly. This usually happens again if I try to crank again, and on the third try it starts, sometimes with a small bit of hesitation. A few days ago I added about 4 oz. of TC-W3 to some 91 octane 7-11 gas, which may be a bit much for my 17 gallon fill up. But I think if it were the TC-W3 causing it, the vehicle would still crank, just take longer, no? I am not absolutely sure if this is a warm start issue only.

My Pathfinder has ~124.5k on it, original starter and alternator. Battery is 7-8 months old. Several months ago I had infrequent difficulty starting, where I would start to crank and it seemed to stumble and not turn over. Letting go and then cranking in a few seconds resulted in a successful start. I cleaned my battery terminals a couple months back and all was well until a few days ago.

I do know the NVIS system (immobilizer) could be having issues - I will need to look at the security LED to see if it is solid once this issue happens again. I carry both keys in my pocket as the eyelets on both keys is missing and cracked, respectively.

So, is my starter going, or is just coincidental with the TC-W3? I will clean engine grounds of corrosion and tighten them. Does anyone else have any other suggestions? Should I get the battery and/or alternator tested?

 

[Colt45ws]

Could be the starter or the immobilizer as you guessed.

 

[Carbon]

Transmission lockout switch maybe. Try starting in Park and Neutral both. Try wiggling the shifter.

Ignition switch or starter are my next guesses.

 

[Muskieteer]

I had this on a honda accord i had. The problem was a 10 cent conector on the starter. All good after it was fixed.

 

[Radman]

I would suspect the starter has run it's lifespan.

 

[suspiciousmind]

If electrical connections are good, it's most likely the starter.

If you have a good generator shop local, they can likely rebuild it for not much money.

 

[chad8]

Don't throw parts at it. Do a resistance check of the + and _ cables first as well as all the connections and the end terminals. Bad starters usually have slowed down and bad solenoids usually click first before dying.
Connection problems come and go randomly.
I believe its an electrical problem , not a mechanical one.
your alarm and safety switch are next.

 

[Corvette Owner]

Check your battery terminals (for corrosion and tightness) and also the battery cable's positive connection at the starter.

 

[The_Eric]

Could be the starter, security (immobilizer), neutral safety switch or ignition switch.

 

[Radman]

Do you really think starters don't wear out after 124K miles?

 

[UNC017]

ignition switch, starter relay, neutral-safety-switch, immobilizer module, starter. I'd test them in that order.

 

[mechtech2]

Clean BOTH ends of your power and ground cables, and where they seat. Nice and shiny.
This is important no matter what the problem is.

Fixed? Great.
If not, jump the starter terminals to see if tit works OK that way.
Relays and solenoids are often in a starter system, and can go bad.

 

[chad8]

Originally Posted By: Radman
Do you really think starters don't wear out after 124K miles?


yes they do ,but there is also an additional root cause that most mechanics are to busy to look for so by testing cables and other factors that would make a starter fail early. After you have eliminated the original problem then if the starter is bad you wont be replacing it 2 or 3 times like I see a lot of people do while they blame the parts store..
I have seen it dozens of times..

 

[Towncivilian]

On a "cold" start (well, as cold as 94 degree weather in Florida gets), it took a few seconds with the key in the "START" position before it started cranking. The security LED remained off, so it is not an issue with the immobilizer. A warm start after returning from the supermarket yielded a successful start on the first try with no delay.

I will clean the battery terminals and check the starter's connections, and swap the blower motor relay for the ignition relay.

 

[UNC017]

Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
On a "cold" start (well, as cold as 94 degree weather in Florida gets), it took a few seconds with the key in the "START" position before it started cranking. The security LED remained off, so it is not an issue with the immobilizer. A warm start after returning from the supermarket yielded a successful start on the first try with no delay.

I will clean the battery terminals and check the starter's connections, and swap the blower motor relay for the ignition relay.


What happens during the time the key is turned but it's not yet cranking? Any "clunk" from the starter? Any light "click" from the starter relay? Look at the dome light (door open) while doing this... does it dim immediately, or does it wait until the starter starts turning to dim?

 

[Towncivilian]

Dome light turns off when ignition is set to "ON" (I always turn ignition to "ON" to prime fuel pump before cranking), but I will turn on a map light next time I try starting the car. I hear nothing from the starter, and haven't been listening closely enough for a relay click. I also haven't been listening for the fuel pump.

Battery voltage with ignition OFF is 12.63 volts.

 

[UNC017]

Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
Dome light turns off when ignition is set to "ON" (I always turn ignition to "ON" to prime fuel pump before cranking), but I will turn on a map light next time I try starting the car. I hear nothing from the starter, and haven't been listening closely enough for a relay click. I also haven't been listening for the fuel pump.

Battery voltage with ignition OFF is 12.63 volts.


IF the map light doesn't even dim until the starter starts turning, then its probably not a starter problem but an ignition switch, neutral safety switch, or possibly starter solenoid problem (for example, Nippondenso starters of the 90s were notorious for a failure mode where the solenoid engages the gear, but the contacts are worn and it won't actually switch on the starter).

If the light dims or goes out but you don't hear any clunk, then I'd look for a bad connection at the battery posts.

 

[Towncivilian]

Well, after the initial delay on the first "cold" start of the day and a slower start sometime after, it's been starting on the first try all day, spanning at least a dozen starts. I got the battery tested at Nissan and they said it's good. I'll still take a look at connections at some point.

 

[patel]

Yes minee was wear out at 150 on oldsmobile car. Better to change starter.