Is My 'New' Fuel Pump Dead Already?

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1993_VG30E_GXE

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Here's the scenario guys. Fuel pump was installed (New Bosch) FEB 2008. I've put 16,590 KM on the pump only since.

Started the car up to warm it up. Walked back outside and heard it stalling, and it turned off. Started the car up again and it started stalling out like when we remove the fuse for the fuel pump. Tried a few more times several 5 minutes apart, no start.

Noticed as I turn the key to the ON state, when you normally heard the fuel pump go on, it wasn't going on. Not sure if because it was pressurized already, do we normally hear it ALWAYS go on for a second or two. So I figured it could be the fuel pump or the fuse. Remove fuse, put same one back in, no change, didn't hear it come on. Swapped the fuel pump fuse with the same amps Fog Light fuse. Fuel pump sound came on. Car started for a few seconds, then died. Tried again, started then died. Tried again a few times after that and no fuel pump turning on noise anymore.

Any ideas?
 
If the fuel pump is not running, may be a bad fuel pump relay or maybe you just got a bad pump. Did you change the fuel filter when you changed the pump? #1 cause of fuel pump failure is a clogged fuel filter.
 
I did. The filter was changed 3 thousand KM after fuel pump was changed. As far as I know the Bosch one was the OEM replacement. Is it really possible they die that quick though?

Also, the car sat on jackstands for 4 months over the summer, but this wouldn't break the fuel pump right? The car had approx. 1/4 tank of gas left in it while it was sitting.

So what's your suggestion for the next step. Check the relay, then check the leads on the pump itself?
 
My dad had one let go on a Caprice about 4 months after he replaced it. He checked fuses, relays and wiring, no deal. There are defective products that slip by. What sux is he had to drop the tank again and replace the pump. It happens.
 
That's good to know. I'll do the diagnostics in the service manual. Is there some manual way to absolutely rule out that the fuel pump is defective?

Someone told me to hook up a 12V battery to it then see if gas starts shooting out the hose. Couldn't I just disconnect the send hose into the fuel filter, aim it in a bucket, get someone to turn on the ignition to the START mode, when it normally turns on, then if the fuel is spurting out, I know it's not the pump?
 
Update. I went back in the car after it was sitting for 40 min. Put key to START state, no fuel pump noise. Took a 3rd fuse from the cig lighter position (also 15A) and inserted it into the fuel pump position. Car started and I immediately reved to 3000RPm and it idled, so I quickly turned it off.

Now, I looked at the previous 2 fuses, and both were blown.

What can be causing the fuel pump fuse to blow? Clogged fuel filter?
 
Can you disconnect the pump at the tank then turn the ign on and see if the fuse blows? Oem parts are usually the best.
 
OK I'll try that. But I just drove the car around the block then parked it in the driveway quickly just in case it dies again, so I don't need to push it in.

I have a new Baldwin fuel filter, so I'll swap that in just to confirm it's not the fuel filter. I spoke to a friend of mine and he claims theres no way a clogged fuel filter would cause a fuse to blow.

He says it's for sure an electrical problem. Either a short or something, and i'll need to go in a trace and test the fuel pump circuit.

I'll do it if I must, but I really want to avoid moving these wires, they are so old. Just an addition. The OEM harness clips from the Engine Coolant Temp Sender (Dashboard Light) NOT the Sensor, broke so I just soldered the wire openly to the tab on the sensor. As well a similar plastic harness connector/tab thing broke off for the distributor ground, so I went and tinned the wire then simply screwed that wire into the distributor ground spot, openly.
 
Steve, you are saying disconnect the fuel injection hose clamp and hose at the pump (there's 2 send and receive hose)? Or disconnect the electrical harness connector at the pump then do your procedure.

The electrical harness connector for the pump is under the back seat - not too hard to access. The hoses are risky, if they fall down the hole or something, I'll have to drop the tank to reconnect maybe, so I would rather leave the hoses alone if possible.

Can a faulty or dying fuel pressure regulator cause the fuel pump fuse to blow?

Note on this Bosch Pump:
In-Tank. Alleged fuel pump failures can often be traced to a faulty fuel pressure regulator instead of (or in addition to) the pump itself. To avoid unnecessary warranty returns and comebacks, WORLDPAC strongly recommends testing (and, if in doubt, replacing) the fuel pressure regulator before considering the diagnosis of a faulty fuel pump to be complete and correct.
 
I remember my father sitting in the street kicking the gas tank. On two seperate occasions the car started after kicking the tank. Not sure if that was how he tested the fuel pump LOL but it did get the car running again.
 
The fuel pump electrical system is drawing too many amps.
You could hook up a multimeter[in series] and see how many amps it it drawing.
But this could still be a bad connection or relay, and the pump may be good. It is not certain yet.
You could hot wire the pump and check it's amp draw and compare it.
 
I had it happen to me. BTW kicking the gas tank actually got me home and saved me a tow. They can die in short order if you installed a defective one, and a swift kick in the tank sometimes wakes them up.
 
I replaced the fuel filter and fuse with new, and for some reason the problem hasn't happened again. I drove it around tonight. I do notice one thing,

The front driver side headlight, periodically turns off then on while the car is on. It doesn't happen that often, but it's been doing this for a yr now. I figured the headlight is just dying so I left it to let it burn out.

Could this be an indication that there is a short somewhere in the electrical system?

Next step will be to replace that light, and see if it still flickers.
 
Originally Posted By: 1993_VG30E_GXE
Would a bad ground migrate into the system and cause other anomilies like the fuel pump fuse to blow? And the light to flicker?


well normally a poor ground will not cause a circuit to short out, but you may have a short to power. Wacky things can happen when you have bad grounds.
 
Can extemely damp (foggy weather) exacerbate this grounding scenario or the short to power that your talking about?

I notice this happened during that weather. Do note that the car was on jackstands for 60 days or more, with 1/4 tank of gas in it, that I didn't treat with Sta-bil, and after my overhaul was done, I fired the car up and burnt that gas up.
 
Originally Posted By: 1993_VG30E_GXE
I replaced the fuel filter and fuse with new, and for some reason the problem hasn't happened again. I drove it around tonight. I do notice one thing,

The front driver side headlight, periodically turns off then on while the car is on. It doesn't happen that often, but it's been doing this for a yr now. I figured the headlight is just dying so I left it to let it burn out.

Could this be an indication that there is a short somewhere in the electrical system?

Next step will be to replace that light, and see if it still flickers.




These guys mentioned it, it could be a bad ground. Also check the harness that goes to the tank, sometimes a connection will get some corrosion in it and cause all kinds of headaches.
 
These guys mentioned it, it could be a bad ground. Also check the harness that goes to the tank, sometimes a connection will get some corrosion in it and cause all kinds of headaches.
[/quote]

+1 bad connection . crimp the old ones and sand them before you play electrical tech. check the grounds too.
 
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