The Edge should be N/A, but I do believe it to use the V6 from the platform with the timing chain driven water pump, so monitoring the oil for signs of coolant infiltration is a good idea as it ages.
Is Mobil 1 0w40 still one of the best all around choices?
- Thread starter Torrid
- Start date
EP is its own product line marketed for extended drains. 0W40 FS is under the vanilla M1 label, even if it’s a much more robust product.
FS is marketed for aging european vehicles and meets european specs, all of which are extended drain. porsche was running 20k ocis with A40 20 years ago
Last edited:
0w-40 Mobil1 has Porsche A40 and MB229.5 approval, MB and Porsche have been pushing long OCIs for years, probably largely in part due to "free service" plans given with the cars during the warranty period. 0w40 is formulated more in line with an EP oil, they could make a 0w40 that meets SN or SP with only hydrocracked oil without the need for fancy GTL and PAO, but since the oil meets MB229.5 that requires a 10% or lower NOACK they have to use better base oils like GTL and PAO with some esters in the mix which makes the 0w-40 more like an EP oil.
porsche has never offered free scheduled maintenance, very recently you now get a free 10k service and that’s it.
they started recommending 15k ocis almost 40 years ago
I use Mobil 1 0w40 FS in my 2018 5.0 F150, it seems to like it and is more quiet then if I use a 20 or 30 grade. I would also consider a 40 grade rotella t6 with either a 5 or 0 winter rating depending on your climate.
I guess I meant more Mercedes-Benz, and for the longest time 0w-40 carried the BMW spec too, I'm not sure why they dropped it, whether the oil isn't able to meet BMW's requirements or they just didn't want to pay the test setup fee or whatever.
Local wallyworld had M1 Euro 0-40 for 22 buck for a 5 Qt jug today, bought 2 and changed the oil in the Wife's Armada
For summer 40 is not bad idea.
I've used M1 EP 10W-30 many times and I have some Euro 0W-40 ( M1 & Castrol) that still haven't used. Maybe next week ...
I still like the M1 EP 10W-30 for some reason even though 0W-40 has many European bells & whistles that my car doesn't require.
Good news is that 0W-40 also meets "social distancing" criteria as there is a good distance between the 0 and the 40.
I've used M1 EP 10W-30 many times and I have some Euro 0W-40 ( M1 & Castrol) that still haven't used. Maybe next week ...
I still like the M1 EP 10W-30 for some reason even though 0W-40 has many European bells & whistles that my car doesn't require.
Good news is that 0W-40 also meets "social distancing" criteria as there is a good distance between the 0 and the 40.
how is it going? Where you on vacation?
- Joined
- May 28, 2014
- Messages
- 2,259
Never used Mobil1 0w40
But I am using Amsoil 0w40 in the lawn tractor
But I am using Amsoil 0w40 in the lawn tractor
I use it in a '03 vintage, power dense pushrod v-8 domestic with port injection. Use it in air cooled tractor, pressure washer. Won't put it into a modern Dexos required 5w-30 V-6.
Troubles in the applications I choose? None.
It's a stonkin' hard a**ed oil whatever you put it into that may have had a x-30 app, being it's on the thinner side of a 40 grade. But I won't put it into a sensitive, emissions legal machine unless directly called for.
That pushrod '03? Catalyst deleted and tuned to absolutely ignore post catalyst sensors. Reasonably, perhaps logically; it wouldn't be a worry in any 30 weight application that's not worn so bad that it must outright burn its sump.
Troubles in the applications I choose? None.
It's a stonkin' hard a**ed oil whatever you put it into that may have had a x-30 app, being it's on the thinner side of a 40 grade. But I won't put it into a sensitive, emissions legal machine unless directly called for.
That pushrod '03? Catalyst deleted and tuned to absolutely ignore post catalyst sensors. Reasonably, perhaps logically; it wouldn't be a worry in any 30 weight application that's not worn so bad that it must outright burn its sump.
There are numerous discussion about this oil in European section. First and foremost, 0W40 is premier product for Mobil1. Comparisons to ILSAC oils are not useful.
However, M1 0W40 IMO is not great product for DI engines. There is too much SAPS. I would personally go Castrol 0W40 in DI engine. That being said, in 3.7 V6 if high HTHS is wanted pick Castrol or Mobil1 in 0W40 grade. Both are top notch.
However, M1 0W40 IMO is not great product for DI engines. There is too much SAPS. I would personally go Castrol 0W40 in DI engine. That being said, in 3.7 V6 if high HTHS is wanted pick Castrol or Mobil1 in 0W40 grade. Both are top notch.
The castrol is like 1.13% and the Mobil1 is like 1.3%, if you're of the mind that all high SAPS oils are bad for DI engines then neither is suitable.
That is big difference, and you are right, in reality no high saps is good for DI engines. Reason why we are still using it is that the US only recently switched to ULSG and still, the way EPA wrote rules, you can stumble on high sulfur gas. So difference is 1.13% to 1.34%. That is 21%. That is actually difference between Castrol 0W40 and good Mid-SAPS oil. So, I would say, yes, it is big difference.
Pennzoil Euro L and Castrol Edge C3, they're 5w-30, not Xw30, but the Pennzoil is 23/jug at walmart, and the Edge is 19.50/ea if you buy a 3 pack. They're MB 229.51 and Dexos2 any other mid/low saps Euro oil seems to carry a heafty price and many seem to only be available by the quart.
Similar threads
