Is it necessary to replace filter if you do regular fluid changes?

The AW-55 transmission in 4 of my Volvos has an internal filter that requires splitting the cases to replace. And, clearly, I am not doing that. It does come with a magnetic drain plug, though.

So, I have added an external cooler, thermostat and spin on filter for them. I am a fan of the Baldwin B2-HPG, which has an internal bypass.

I started a thread on this, here:
Thread 'Baldwin B2-HPG used as a transmission filter.'
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/baldwin-b2-hpg-used-as-a-transmission-filter.384622/

I used to completely flush them - which takes about 12 quarts for the 8 quart transmission capacity, but with the filter, and good quality fluid (AMSOIL or HPL), they don’t seem to get as dirty as quickly.

So, now, the cars are on a 30,000 drain, filter change, and fill. 4 quarts refills the transmission and the filter. Gets about 1/2 of the fluid, but the fluid comes out clear and red (or blue, if HPL is in it).

Here is one of the filters. It’s tucked up against the left front frame rail, in a previously unoccupied space. A bit of a mess when I take the filter off, but easy to reach, and easy to change.

View attachment 299287
Very nice. Any concern with flow/pressure/restriction with that setup?
 
I do a drain and refill 2 or 3 times before a filter change

I do a drain and refill 2 or 3 times before a filter change
The Ram that I owned for 14 years I believe has a 545RFR, with your standard type transmission filter and a spin on on the pan. I replaced those filters each 60k, and installed a dorman pan with drain plug. I would do a drain and fill each fall with it. I think it probably would drain 4-8 quarts. Can't remember. But it just did that every year to keep the fluid fresh. I sold it at 196k and the transmission seemed to shift just as good/bad as it did from what I bought it new. My Jeep 42RLE has 61k. I replaced the filter at each 30k and same drain fill thing each year. So far so good.
 
Side note on the Magnefine, I emailed them about the switch from plastic to metal, as well as intervals and knock offs. This is the reply. I'm thinking about ordering a China version to cut it open. They look identical. Welds and all. They look just as good on the outside. Interested to see the inside.

"
Yes, we converted to the stainless-steel housing, mainly due to some OEM requests and the number of knockoffs in the market that were subpar.

The internals are basically the same with the same filtration capabilities.

Replacement is recommended at 30K for transmission and 50K for Power Steering.

We sell on amazon and ebay , the links can be found on www.magnefinefilters.com<http://www.magnefinefilters.com>

The other filters found on those websites are cheap Chinese knockoffs. The tariffs are helping but unfortunately too late. "
 
It wouldn't hurt to swap the filter but I look at it this way just by doing regular fluid swaps you you ahead of 90% of people. I have seen vehicles with 300K on them on the factory fill in the transmission. If it will make you feel better sure swap the filter it can't hurt and it might help. I wouldn't call it an absolute necessity.
On many Honda's there is a replaceable filter external to the transmission and an internal filter. The external is a fiber style similar to an oil filter the internal filter is basically a screen to keep large particles out of the oil pump. Not sure if its a Honda you are working on so just wanted to add that note.
 
Very nice. Any concern with flow/pressure/restriction with that setup?
I’m not that worried about it. I did one car as a beta test. No changes or issues noted. Pressed on with the rest of the fleet as I acquired them.

The Baldwin B-2 HPG has an 8 PSI bypass built in.

So, if there were a significant flow restriction, as a result of really cold fluid, perhaps, it would bypass anyway.
 
It wouldn't hurt to swap the filter but I look at it this way just by doing regular fluid swaps you you ahead of 90% of people. I have seen vehicles with 300K on them on the factory fill in the transmission. If it will make you feel better sure swap the filter it can't hurt and it might help. I wouldn't call it an absolute necessity.
On many Honda's there is a replaceable filter external to the transmission and an internal filter. The external is a fiber style similar to an oil filter the internal filter is basically a screen to keep large particles out of the oil pump. Not sure if its a Honda you are working on so just wanted to add that note.
I had a Saturn Vue Redline with the Honda engine and transmission. The filter required splitting the case, but it did have a convient drain plug. On that one it's about every 10k just because of the history of transmission issues.
 
Depending on which filter you're talking about. For the suction filter in the transmission pan on most cars, you don't need to change them often. They are typically 100+ micron-rated and would only filter out large particles. If your transmission is in good working condition, it won't and should not clog up. I've replaced mine at 100k miles, and the old filter still looked like new. However, always reference the owner's or service manual. Some cars may have a finer filter, which would require more frequent service.
There are also aftermarket or factory-installed inline spin-on filters. Those filters have a lower micron rating and should be changed regularly (typically every 25k or 50k mi, depending on what the manual says).
 
Depends on the transmission I would think. Honda used to recommend it every 30K miles even though there was no filter. It was easy and on flat ground replaced about 40% depending on the model. but starting over two decades ago they started recommending something like 4 straight changes every 100K miles. Seemed kind of wasteful to put in some fresh ATF just to drain that bit out.

I talked to a mechanic who had an early 2000s Civic with AT. Said that he would do a fluid change ever 3000-5000 miles as a preventative step since it wasn't filtered.
 
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