I've searched this topic and read ARX's recommendation of 1 oz per quart of manual transmission oil. I'm going to switch to Red Line MT-90 in a car I just bought for my daughter (has 135K mi. on it). Since I'm switching to a synthetic oil, should I run the ARX in the gear box before I change to synthetic or is this overkill? Do conventional oiled manual transmissions really have much problem w/ dirt or sludge?
Is Auto Rx in 5 speed transmission overkill?
- Thread starter dancer
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My Saab definitely had a lot of crud in the 5sp transmission after approx 125k mi on dino gear oil. At that time my mechanic used a quick solvent flush to clean it out & then switched me over to syn gear oil (BG Syncro Shift II) to remedy a shifting problem.
After 30k-40k mi on syn, my shifting problem returned & I decided to start using the OE spec of motor oil. I recently used A-Rx to clean it out again before the switch, & I was astounded by how much junk was still in my "clean" case!
I also just ran A-Rx in my son's 5sp transmission after 150k mi on motor oil. It came out very dark for oil which never sees the combustion process.
I don't think it's "overkill" at all.
After 30k-40k mi on syn, my shifting problem returned & I decided to start using the OE spec of motor oil. I recently used A-Rx to clean it out again before the switch, & I was astounded by how much junk was still in my "clean" case!
I also just ran A-Rx in my son's 5sp transmission after 150k mi on motor oil. It came out very dark for oil which never sees the combustion process.
I don't think it's "overkill" at all.
Mine's a '90 Classic 900 w/16v N/A engine & my son's is an '85 C900 w/8v N/A engine.
My wife's car is a '99 9³, & it's the only auto transmission (& turbo) in the family. I've already started replacing her transmission fluid with M1 syn ATF, so I won't be running A-Rx in there anytime soon. However, with nearly 50k mi on her car, I will start an A-Rx run in the engine in another month or so.
My wife's car is a '99 9³, & it's the only auto transmission (& turbo) in the family. I've already started replacing her transmission fluid with M1 syn ATF, so I won't be running A-Rx in there anytime soon. However, with nearly 50k mi on her car, I will start an A-Rx run in the engine in another month or so.
Thanks for the feedback. I just put 1 oz per quart in the transmission. After reading Eiron's post, I'm wondering if I should rinse with conventional oil and repeat before I put the synthetic gear oil in there.
Synthetic transmission fluid is fine at 1 ounce per quart of synthetic oil in a "Manual" Transmission" you don't need to do anything except drain and refill after mileage posted on application instructions is met.
Non synthetic oil is if you have seal leak issues.
Non synthetic oil is if you have seal leak issues.
Hi dancer,
I don't think I'd do a "rinse & repeat." Keeping Frank's comments in mind, nothing's really necessary after you drain since you're not faced with the kind of combustion by-products you find inside an engine.
However, since A-Rx allows so much additional crud to release from the engine during the rinse phase, I have to assume that some of the same process is occurring in the transmission (albeit to a much lesser degree). There was enough cleaning being done that I'll feel better if I do a shorter-than-normal interval on my first fill. For me that means maybe going 10k mi rather than 30k.
I don't think I'd do a "rinse & repeat." Keeping Frank's comments in mind, nothing's really necessary after you drain since you're not faced with the kind of combustion by-products you find inside an engine.
However, since A-Rx allows so much additional crud to release from the engine during the rinse phase, I have to assume that some of the same process is occurring in the transmission (albeit to a much lesser degree). There was enough cleaning being done that I'll feel better if I do a shorter-than-normal interval on my first fill. For me that means maybe going 10k mi rather than 30k.
If it has seals it is not over kill! Remember one of the huge benifits of AUto-Rx is that it cleans and conditions seals! If by some odd chance the transmission did not have any other build up cleaning and revitilizeing the seals would be worth it alone!!! You could easily put 1 oz. per quart into the transmission, do the power steering at the same time and if the crank case is small enough still have enough auto-rx for it too.
Eiron: After 30k-40k mi on syn, my shifting problem returned. If you don't mind me asking what kind of problem did you have hard to shift grind into gear. I just changed my MTF at 145K and put new in after 11 years.It may shift a little smoother but not much.The fluid that came out was normal for a 90 wt..What I am getting at is 90wt. oil holds up much longer than one may think. A sealed unit perhaps helps it to do its job longer also.I have to think unless some extreams during driving the MTF will not get extreamly dirty or lose its lubrisity like your engine oil will.I did however add a couple ozs. of ARX to the new fluid. Their were very little particles on the drain plug magnet either. Perhaps yours had bigger stuff and I would be paying more attention to it then.But for me once in a lifetime is enough with MTF and Rear end juice too.
I just put Auto-RX into the 5 speed and diff of our 86 BMW.
This car has had Redline MT90 and 75W-90 for many years. I change the fluids every 50K to 70K so I wanted to run the Auto-RX 1000 miles before I drained.
I noticed that it shifted a bit better immediately. I can believe that even with a good synthetic that Auto-RX is helping
This car has had Redline MT90 and 75W-90 for many years. I change the fluids every 50K to 70K so I wanted to run the Auto-RX 1000 miles before I drained.
I noticed that it shifted a bit better immediately. I can believe that even with a good synthetic that Auto-RX is helping
Manual transmissions will oxidize oil, just like any other piece of equipment. Run the one ounce per quart capacity in the old lube before changing out. That way you can dissolve and drain deposits before adding the fresh lube. There is no sense in putting in new fluid into a dirty system. Your new lube will love you.
JHZR2
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That said, it seems that LC would be the optimal add here - it is a very potent antioxidant.
Now, that said... Ive been suprised at the nonmetallic gunk that ends up on surfaces inside of differentials that have lots of miles or limited service use/maintenance for many years... on top of the metallic junk that show up on magnets and surfaces!
For a diff or gearbox that is very dirty for one reason or another, ARX seems like a no-brainer.
JMH
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