iron x and autogeek.net

[whitson01]

i recently ordered iron x from autogeek.net. it comes highly recommended from some local detail guys. especially if you have a white vehicle. if you do then you've probably noticed these brownish/reddish specs/spots on your rear bumper or maybe on the sides. its mostly iron particles and other contaminants. this stuff pretty much "dissolves" it. turns its a purplish color. you then clean it off. cant wait to try it out..
oh and i guess ups screwed up my delivery. one email to autogeek and they have another one on the way. so far its been nice to deal with them.

 

[wallyuwl]

Thanks for posting this. I've been looking for something to help with those rust colored specs. They are nearly impossible to get off.

 

[The Critic]

I'm sure a clay bar and some Meguiars M105 with a Flex DA and an orange pad would do the same thing.

edit-- did you try Meguiars Ultimate Compound from Walmart. That stuff should work nearly as well without the machine.

 

[whitson01]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
I'm sure a clay bar and some Meguiars M105 with a Flex DA and an orange pad would do the same thing.

edit-- did you try Meguiars Ultimate Compound from Walmart. That stuff should work nearly as well without the machine.


according to the guys that use it, it works best in conjunction with clay baring. basicly, wash/clean - spray area(s) let sit/soak - spray off - then clay bar etc...
yes i have tried/used meguiars ultimate.. very nice stuff. but there some areas that were very stubborn. its one of those things where just looking at the car you dont see it. but up close it sticks out. im sure a flex da with some work would do it to but i dont have one.
here are the guys that use and recommended this to me. they do awesome work on some awesome cars: http://fullthrottleforums.com/showthread.php?t=49087

 

[tom slick]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
I'm sure a clay bar and some Meguiars M105 with a Flex DA and an orange pad would do the same thing.

edit-- did you try Meguiars Ultimate Compound from Walmart. That stuff should work nearly as well without the machine.


But would it be as quick and easy as spray-on spray-off?

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: tom slick
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I'm sure a clay bar and some Meguiars M105 with a Flex DA and an orange pad would do the same thing.

edit-- did you try Meguiars Ultimate Compound from Walmart. That stuff should work nearly as well without the machine.


But would it be as quick and easy as spray-on spray-off?


Probably not, but UC and M105 would also remove oxidation and scratching.

 

[whitson01]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: tom slick
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I'm sure a clay bar and some Meguiars M105 with a Flex DA and an orange pad would do the same thing.

edit-- did you try Meguiars Ultimate Compound from Walmart. That stuff should work nearly as well without the machine.


But would it be as quick and easy as spray-on spray-off?


Probably not, but UC and M105 would also remove oxidation and scratching.

right now oxidation and scratching isnt the problem. its about 4 months old. just check out the link i posted earlier. those guys do just what your talking about a much more. and they still use this stuff to help them get all the iron deposits out. plus you can use this on your wheels.

 

[MrHorspwer]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: tom slick
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I'm sure a clay bar and some Meguiars M105 with a Flex DA and an orange pad would do the same thing.

edit-- did you try Meguiars Ultimate Compound from Walmart. That stuff should work nearly as well without the machine.


But would it be as quick and easy as spray-on spray-off?


Probably not, but UC and M105 would also remove oxidation and scratching.


You've never dealt with rail dust, have you?

It's not "on" the paint, it's "in" the paint. To use a compound to remove it, you'd have to cut through the material, down to the iron oxide. It's a bit drastic to grind off a couple mils of finish for a contaminate that's easily lifted by clay and a little elbow grease. Compounds aren't the appropriate correction for iron fallout.

The thing is, because the iron is embedded, it's very hard to remove *all* the oxide. It may look perfect, but after a salty winter, it's back the next spring. Iron X and similar products are supposed to prevent that from occuring by neutrilizing the oxide.

I have the joy of parking a white vehicle (and a silver one before it) a couple hundred yards from a very active railroad for a little over 8 hours every day. I bought a bottle of Iron X from autogeek last night. I'm sure it will look great after the correction. We'll see how it looks after the winter...

 

[whitson01]

just got mine in.. first thing noticied.. it is rancid!!! smells horrible!!!! must have sulfur or something in it. but i guess all that matters is that it works.

 

[whitson01]

just used iron x earlier today.. all i can say is WOW. this stuff works quick and efficiently. my car is just a few months old and when i spray this stuff on it looked like it got blasted by a shot gun with bird shot!! only down side... it doesnt smell good lol. but i guess i can deal with that. highly recommended.

 

[SatinSilver]

Make sure you shake it real well. Please re smell and report back. Thank you!

 

[whitson01]

we did shake it well. when i first got it, it smelled worse and it was very clear. after shaking for a while it clouded up just a little. is this normal with this product?

 

[SatinSilver]

I was joking around with you regarding smelling the product. So I'm not sure. I need to order some of this stuff though. What size bottle did you order?

 

[bigmike]

I always wondered what caused those amber colored spots I get on my vehicles occasionally. It looks like this product might be what I'd need to get rid of them. I don't have too many, but when I clay I notice them because trying to remove them with just the claybar is difficult.

 

[whitson01]

Originally Posted By: satinsilver
I was joking around with you regarding smelling the product. So I'm not sure. I need to order some of this stuff though. What size bottle did you order?


trust me, its not pleasant. but the smell doesnt last.
500ml bottle but im going to order the liter bottle. i like it that good.

 

[whitson01]

Originally Posted By: bigmike
I always wondered what caused those amber colored spots I get on my vehicles occasionally. It looks like this product might be what I'd need to get rid of them. I don't have too many, but when I clay I notice them because trying to remove them with just the claybar is difficult.


again, i have a new car, bought in april. when i sprayed the back of it, even though i couldnt see a lot of the spots, it started "bleeding" right away. you will be surprised. i was. especially if you have a white car. get up close to your paint and "eye" it real good before hand. then follow the directions. DONT LET IT DRY. spray it off and check it out.

 

[SatinSilver]

Originally Posted By: bigmike
I always wondered what caused those amber colored spots I get on my vehicles occasionally. It looks like this product might be what I'd need to get rid of them. I don't have too many, but when I clay I notice them because trying to remove them with just the claybar is difficult.


Yeah me too. Last year I tried claying them but didn't do much good. I tried some scratch remover with alot of elbow grease. What a pita. Helped a little bit. This stuff sounds perfect.

 

[whitson01]

the real beautiful thing about this product is it doesnt take away any of your clear coat or paint, which is essentially what clay baring and using compounds etc. do. now im a huge fan of clay baring though. and doing that after using this product is a 1-2 punch.

 

[MrHorspwer]

I'm gonna bump this one up because I finally had a chance to use the bottle of Iron X I ordered over a month ago.

WOW!

At first, I only planned to do the spots I knew to have lots of embedded rail dust. Well, I ended up using a whole bottle doing every panel, some twice. I now have to order another bottle for my wife's truck.

Many of the picture threads in the detailing forums don't do this stuff justice. All of my paint was bleeding purple. The entire panel. I had purple puddles on the ground. After all is said and done, the paint felt great. I followed up with a clay bar, but the feel when working the bar was much different than usual. It felt like I was claying a car with 10,000 miles, not 100,000 miles.

I'm not usually one to rave or even recommend detailing products. There are simply too many products and too much subjective opinion. Everybody has their own likes and dislikes. Iron X is the real deal though. I am pleased.

FWIW, after the Iron X and clay, I finished up with Poorboy's Professional Polish and EX-P Sealent. Applied in full sun with a PC. No drama.

 

[whitson01]

awesome! im glad you liked it as much as i do. this stuff is a must have imo for detailing. this mixed with a clay job then wax will do wonders. fyi, next time order the liter bottle and keep your smaller bottle to refill. its a little cheaper. also you just have to lightly mist your paint. it is hard to hold back when you start seeing the results. but trust me it doesnt take much.