The Dow Jones closed up another 161; you guessed it.... Another record.
The American Economy is The Envy of the World.
The American Economy is The Envy of the World.
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This will have to stop someday? What will happen when it does?The Dow Jones closed up another 161; you guessed it.... Another record.
The American Economy is The Envy of the World.
Don't worry, they can't vaporize. They need to be taxed. The US system relies heavily on capital gains and similar taxes more than any other country. If those gains vaporize the tax receipts fall, and the deficit explodes, and you already mentioned how bad off we are now, so that would require direct monetization.All I know is the spectacular unrealized gains in 401k’s might be in danger of vaporizing one day. 2, 5, 10, 20? years
Careful, @JeffKeryk will call you Mr Doomen Gloom!This will have to stop someday? What will happen when it does?
https://www.usdebtclock.org/
When? 50, 75, 100 trillion? I don’t know at what point or what might happen. We now pay over one trillion in interest on the debt per year. Enjoy the ride for now as I am doing. We are in uncharted seas. I don’t fight the market but find it scary.
All I know is the spectacular unrealized gains in 401k’s might be in danger of vaporizing one day. 2, 5, 10, 20? years
https://www.forbes.com/sites/eriksh...st-1-t-quarterly-interest-on-the-public-debt/
That's a pretty good find. Not common around here, I really need to learn how to fly and find these--a lot of these good deals get snapped up the moment they are posted online. Otherwise they are totally beat, or close enough.Nice strategy. My strategy is very similar.
I just bought a 2008 Toyota Corolla CE a few months ago from original owners (an elderly couple that are getting too old to drive) for $4,000. It only had 60k miles on it, and it had oil changes every 3k miles.
I'm currently using it as a commuter car, and plan to put 20k+ miles a year on it.
Some original owners of this generation Toyota Corolla (years: 2003 to 2008), have said on Reddit that they ran into the dredded 299,999 mile odometer stuck issue. But they also mentioned that in 300,000 miles, their car has only needed basic maintenance and a few repairs like starter, alternator (for example). Those owners also commented at how reliable their Toyota was from 200k to 300k miles. They never hesitate to take it on long trips. I think most other car companies cars would need a lot of expensive repairs from 200k to 300k miles, but not Toyotas.
Some other pluses about the car:
The engine has a timing chain.
Toyota timing chains never have to be replaced (so no timing belt or chain replacements to ever worry about).
Also, vehicle gets 40 MPG on the highway if driven with a light foot at the speed limit in warm weather.
Also, 2008 was the last year for the Toyota Corolla where Toyota specs 5W-30 in the owners manual.
So I can use 5W-30 and be following the owner's manual recommendation.
So with this $4,000 purchase I plan to drive the car from the 60k miles it had when I bought it used for another 240,000 miles until it reaches 300k miles.
I don't see any advantage to buying a new vehicle for $35,000 and driving it for 240,000 miles when you can buy a used vehicle for $4,000 and drive it an additional 240,000 miles. Also so many newer vehicles with the low tension piston rings burn a quart of oil every 1,000 miles. I didn't want to have to deal with that. All the vehicles I own have the normal tension piston rings and don't use burn or leak any oil.
This is a good point/post. I never much thought about this.Don't worry, they can't vaporize. They need to be taxed. The US system relies heavily on capital gains and similar taxes more than any other country. If those gains vaporize the tax receipts fall, and the deficit explodes, and you already mentioned how bad off we are now, so that would require direct monetization.
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I avoid buying cars located in cities. I like to buy my used vehicles from original owner retirees that are getting too old to drive themThat's a pretty good find. Not common around here, I really need to learn how to fly and find these--a lot of these good deals get snapped up the moment they are posted online. Otherwise they are totally beat, or close enough.
Adding even more emphasis to your conclusion, reference 401ks and IRAs, all those capital gains are taxed as ordinary income upon withdrawal. For the relatively small benefit of tax deductibility in the year of contribution, we all lose the preferential treatment of long term capital gains over a lifetime of earnings. Plus the heirs lose the benefit of recapitalization upon our death.Don't worry, they can't vaporize. They need to be taxed. The US system relies heavily on capital gains and similar taxes more than any other country. If those gains vaporize the tax receipts fall, and the deficit explodes...
Well maybe just the way you wrote it.............the "gains" are not taxed per se. And yes, ANY WD, even if you lost $ over the years (say impossible!!) - take the dough out, taxed as income. No doubt about that!Adding even more emphasis to your conclusion, reference 401ks and IRAs, all those capital gains are taxed as ordinary income upon withdrawal. For the relatively small benefit of tax deductibility in the year of contribution, we all lose the preferential treatment of long term capital gains over a lifetime of earnings. Plus the heirs lose the benefit of recapitalization upon our death.
So would you recommend one to contribute to 401k only to the level of getting corporate match, then switch to Roth and max that, then if there is money left over, do ordinary investing?Adding even more emphasis to your conclusion, reference 401ks and IRAs, all those capital gains are taxed as ordinary income upon withdrawal. For the relatively small benefit of tax deductibility in the year of contribution, we all lose the preferential treatment of long term capital gains over a lifetime of earnings. Plus the heirs lose the benefit of recapitalization upon our death.
Very few people understand this.Adding even more emphasis to your conclusion, reference 401ks and IRAs, all those capital gains are taxed as ordinary income upon withdrawal. For the relatively small benefit of tax deductibility in the year of contribution, we all lose the preferential treatment of long term capital gains over a lifetime of earnings. Plus the heirs lose the benefit of recapitalization upon our death.
I contribute my max to the 401k, do his and her backdoor Roth contributions, max out our HSA but I use it as an investment and not to pay medical bills. Any excess then goes into a regular brokerage account.So would you recommend one to contribute to 401k only to the level of getting corporate match, then switch to Roth and max that, then if there is money left over, do ordinary investing?
Something I never see mentioned--so I must not be understanding--that in retirement one still fills out the same paperwork, and thus MFJ means the first $30k is tax free (at the federal level anyhow). I'm not sure how that plays in with SS income and overall taxes, but it's not that the entire 401k withdrawal in retirement is taxed. Or it is, but the standard deduction changes the math a bit.Very few people understand this.
Of course, if your of limited means then your income tax - current and future - may be less than capital gains anyway.
I could take the cop out and say everyone's situation is different, and it depends...but I won't.So would you recommend one to contribute to 401k only to the level of getting corporate match, then switch to Roth and max that, then if there is money left over, do ordinary investing?
Thank you. It's a data point for me to mull over. The usual boglehead advice is to do whatever in 401k to get corporate match, then switch to Roth, then go back to 401k. That may well work for the average person (who might never get to the level of maxing out both), but its possible for people who keep investments on the "aggressive" growth side to get appreciable 401k holdings, it seems.I could take the cop out and say everyone's situation is different, and it depends...but I won't.
In my situation (retired 9.5 years) I'm paying more income taxes than when I worked. I've been religiously rolling over my comfort level to Roth each year since retirement, but the taxable IRA is still worth more than when I retired.
Knowing what I know now, I would do exactly what you suggest, with the addition of rolling 401k/IRA to Roth at retirement at a rate high enough to cover all taxable account gains plus some principal even if it's uncomfortable. In my defense for not doing that, I never expected these retirement accounts to amount to much more than hobby money.
May be worth looking into if you have a Roth 401k option as well, creates a different path to directing a large chunk of assets to Roth dollars.So would you recommend one to contribute to 401k only to the level of getting corporate match, then switch to Roth and max that, then if there is money left over, do ordinary investing?
I'm debating it, I have access to one.May be worth looking into if you have a Roth 401k option as well, creates a different path to directing a large chunk of assets to Roth dollars.
Do some investigation into the differences between SLV and PSLV. I have read from credible sources that, while share price is designed to match the price of silver, SLV doesn't have the physical to match their shares. They even state that in the prospectus. PSLV does have physical to match each and every share. It matters if there is a serious silver squeeze because SLV might go Tango Uniform.Inflation will be off the charts depending who wins in nov. In the last 4 years GLD is up 48%. If that party wins again I will go from $12K to $62K. Thats a no brainer. Now this is money that I can live without. So yea... I will put $50K into SLV