Interimittent starting issue after car is driven

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Dec 16, 2006
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1999 Nissan Maxima Automatic Transmission 165k miles

In the mornings, I have no issues starting the car but if the car is driven, shut off for a few minutes to get gas or if I have to run into the store, it tends to crank long before it catches and sometimes does not catch at all at which point I need to turn the key into the "off" position and start over.

Yesterday, something worse happened. After driving in traffic for a few hours, I stopped by the gas station, parked the car and turned it off. A few minutes later, attempted to start the car up again but nothing happened. There was no crank at all as I turned the key, no sounds or clicks...completely dead. I attempted to start her a few more times with no success.

I opened the hood, and tapped the starter a few times. Then I put the key in, put the gear shifter into neutral and let it roll a few inches. Then I put her back into park and attempted again to start her with zero issues as it fired up right away.

A little history, the battery is fairly new, the starter was replaced with a Beck Arnley re-manufactured unit 35k miles ago and I had an intermittent issue with my stereo, lights, turn signals and winddhield wipers cutting off while driving until I would wiggle the key in the ignition at which point everything came back alive. This issue with the ignition has not showed itself in almost 8 months so I thought that it somehow fixed itself. I also have a CEL on for the EGR valve inefficiency (P0401 I believe). This valve is most likely gummed up with deposits and just needs to be cleaned.

What do you guys think this could be? From all the research that I've done, it seems the ignition switch can cause this problem in this car. It most likely isn't the starter or the parking solenoid but who knows as I tapped on the starter and moved the shifter out of park before attempting to fire the engine up again.

Can a clogged EGR valve cause this issue or is this most likely the ignition switch? Even if it was the EGR or a dirty throttle body or IACV, it would still crank, just not fire up.

Any way to check before taking the car apart? I'm leaning towards the started or ignition switch at this point.

Why does this happen only after the car has been on before and still warm?
 
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Research also shows that this could be something with fuel delivery but no crank means a separate issue all together so I'd like to exclude the fuel pump or anything to do with the fuel rail all together.
 
Still having this issue with it cranking but not catching. Every time I find time to get it diagnosed, it works fine. I'm thinking ignition switch...

Any thoughts?

The mysterious no crank issue has not shown itself since the first and only time it did this after which the original post was written.
 
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If you're thinking its ignition switch related, catch it when its not cranking. Unplug the S connector from the starter and with somebody holding the key in start position measure for voltage, if you're not seeing 3/5/12v (varies on system)at the connector you got potential ignition switch issues. If you're getting voltage to main battery to starter terminal and S terminal and its still not cranking its time to replace that starter again.

*If your starter doesn't use a connector for S terminal, even easier just probe for voltage on the terminal/nut itself.
 
Originally Posted By: Spartuss
Research also shows that this could be something with fuel delivery


I recently had a fuel delivery problem that was caused by a bad ignition switch. Relay contacts in the back of the switch had experienced arcing and were no longer making reliable contact, causing intermittent voltage (or no voltage) at the fuel pump. If this no start condition happens again, try beating on the ignition switch with your fist.
 
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