InTech 5.4 32V engine- low oil light came on at high speed, think a bearing may have spun?

Sorry, no meaningful updates. Received one unsolicited text from the mechanic stating the SUV will be completed soon a week or so ago. My grandkids are coming out in August, so if the job happens to get finished, I will put the SUV to use this August.
Booo! Like Gladiator I want to be entertained. I want glorious tales of success (preferred) or failing that, stories of extreme defeat and carnage (less preferred but still entertaining)
 
Received a text from the mechanic- he states the Navigator is all done and ready to be picked up. Said he needed $300 more for freon. I venmo'd him the $300. I stated I now am in Seattle and not sure when I can pickup. He reached back to me two days later and said he normally gets more money for the work he did. I said I will tip him when I pick up the SUV.

My work is allowing me to take four days off this week. I have the SUV in Fayetteville, NC and my Wife's SUV in Columbia, SC. My plan WAS to fly into Fayetteville, NC Wednesday, and pickup the Navigator. Drive the Navigator to Columbia, SC. If the Navigator ran and ran properly, I would rent a u-haul car hauler and tow my Wife's Acura RDX with the Navigator to Seattle. If the Navi ran poorly, I would leave the Navigator it in Columbia, SC and drive my Wife's SUV to Seattle.

Purchased a ticket from Seattle to Fayetteville, along with texting the mechanic I would be out Wednesday evening to pickup the Navigator. No response from the mechanic. I texted him again this morning, no response.

Changed my flight to land in COlumbia, SC instead of Fayettville, NC. I will pickup my Wife's Acura and drive to Fayetteville, NC to see what the real status is....... and then drive to Seattle.
 
All this $$$ into a 2004 vehicle? When will the trans fail?
Sometimes one wins, sometimes one loses. Thats real life.

I have rebuilt/ replaced most everything on this SUV. If for some reason, I find the engine properly installed and running, I think I am in good shape. I rebuilt the air suspension, the interior is in very good condition, zero rust, has the heavy-duty tow package but visual inspection suggests the SUV never towed anything. Independent rear suspension. 32V motor. Same trans that a F350 of the same model year uses. And nearly new Michelin tires.

Grankids coming to Seattle for two weeks in August. If the SUV HAPPENS to be road worthy, I did ok. If not.... as Frank Sinatra sung "That's Life".
 
Currently on a flight that departing Seattle one hour ago for Charlotte. By this time tomorrow I will see the SUV, and hopefully drive it.

Late Monday when I texted the mechanic, I was picking up the SUV tomorrow (Thursday 12 MAY 2022), he did not respond for 14 hours, which was not like him. I thought maybe his phone was shut off for non-payment. He did reply, said everything was good to go, and he could meet me at the airport in Fayetteville, NC if needed.

Two hours later he said both down oxygen sensors are bad, and they are $60 each. I said go ahead with the job. He replied he was between jobs, and didn't have the money to buy the sensors. I venmo'd him $120.......
 
Two hours later he said both down oxygen sensors are bad, and they are $60 each. I said go ahead with the job. He replied he was between jobs, and didn't have the money to buy the sensors. I venmo'd him $120.......
That's sketchy.....I'd be embarrassed to admit if I couldn't afford $120 but was putting myself forth as a mechanic for hire.

Sometimes people offer to pay me for parts up front but I'm only comfortable billing once the job is complete and the problem is corrected. I think the exception to this would be something like an entire custom build....then I could see paying in installments much like one might pay a GC to build a house.

I think it goes without saying the mechanic's diagnosis here is also a bit suspect....not to mention that other than a CEL downstream sensors shouldn't affect how the model year in question performs.
 
I’m hoping this all works out for you. Unlike most people I think if the body is good then why not put a bit of money into a vehicle that’s a bit older. A monthly car payment for something new of this size is going to be easily $800 if not more a month. Multiply that over 4 years You’ve spent $38,400!!!! and you will be lucky if that’s done anything other than cover the depreciation of said vehicle.

I would not however put money into a vehicle that had a rusty body that’s just pointless.
 
Update. I have possession of the Navigator.

I arrive at Fayetteville, NC regional airport at 6pm. The mechanic was to pick me up. He called me and said at the last minute the driver side window would not go up, so he would pick me up in his minivan. The mechanic arrived one hour later.

The mechanic said he had a new 25 year old apprentice and was a good kind. I briefly met the apprentice and found out he had a fractured skull, and likely some brain effects from the fracture. I have a childhood friend who had brain damage in his 20's, I have great empathy for the young man. I suspect he was cleaning the SUV interior from grease and sprayed cleaner on the switches and it took out the driver window switch. Radio also will no longer turn on.

When I started the SUV at the mechanic's shop, I could hear a misfire. I spent enough time, money, and energy, so rather than say anything I jumped in and drove off. I could feel a loss of power/ shudder at around 50 mph in OD. If I put the SUV into 3rd the shudder went away (or so I thought). No check engine light as of yet.

About 15 miles from the pickup, I stopped to get fuel and check the oil, transfluid, and coolant. Oil looked brand new and super clean. Trans fluid had a cherry red color, and a flexible dipstick that I didn't recall Ford used in that version of trans. Theer was some coolant in the overflow, yet pressing on the radiator hoses showed no pressure.

Started the SUV after filling with fuel, and the check engine light lit solid. Decided I would drive the SUV to the Wal-Mart in Lumberton, NC, about 20 miles south of my location. On the interstate, the check engine light went from solid to flashing. Made it to Wal-Mart, and discovered this location does not sell code readers. It is now 9pm and all the auto parts stores are closed. My goal was to drive 180 miles to Columbia, SC tonight and then get a hotel. Thought a flashing check engine light to risky to drive on, so I am now at the Springhill Suites in Lumberton, NC. Less that 1,000 feet from the hotel is a Ford dealer. I will be at the Ford dealer when the service department opens tomorrow morning.

I sense/ speculate the mechanic knew the SUV has a misfire. He could not figure out the misfire, and was not in a position to "farm it out". It hit me a few minutes ago that maybe he did not want to drive 20 miles to pick me up in the SUV, as that may have shown the misfire/ check engine light trouble.

Wish I would of brought a code reader with me.... but "that's life".
 
Update. I have possession of the Navigator.

I arrive at Fayetteville, NC regional airport at 6pm. The mechanic was to pick me up. He called me and said at the last minute the driver side window would not go up, so he would pick me up in his minivan. The mechanic arrived one hour later.

The mechanic said he had a new 25 year old apprentice and was a good kind. I briefly met the apprentice and found out he had a fractured skull, and likely some brain effects from the fracture. I have a childhood friend who had brain damage in his 20's, I have great empathy for the young man. I suspect he was cleaning the SUV interior from grease and sprayed cleaner on the switches and it took out the driver window switch. Radio also will no longer turn on.

When I started the SUV at the mechanic's shop, I could hear a misfire. I spent enough time, money, and energy, so rather than say anything I jumped in and drove off. I could feel a loss of power/ shudder at around 50 mph in OD. If I put the SUV into 3rd the shudder went away (or so I thought). No check engine light as of yet.

About 15 miles from the pickup, I stopped to get fuel and check the oil, transfluid, and coolant. Oil looked brand new and super clean. Trans fluid had a cherry red color, and a flexible dipstick that I didn't recall Ford used in that version of trans. Theer was some coolant in the overflow, yet pressing on the radiator hoses showed no pressure.

Started the SUV after filling with fuel, and the check engine light lit solid. Decided I would drive the SUV to the Wal-Mart in Lumberton, NC, about 20 miles south of my location. On the interstate, the check engine light went from solid to flashing. Made it to Wal-Mart, and discovered this location does not sell code readers. It is now 9pm and all the auto parts stores are closed. My goal was to drive 180 miles to Columbia, SC tonight and then get a hotel. Thought a flashing check engine light to risky to drive on, so I am now at the Springhill Suites in Lumberton, NC. Less that 1,000 feet from the hotel is a Ford dealer. I will be at the Ford dealer when the service department opens tomorrow morning.

I sense/ speculate the mechanic knew the SUV has a misfire. He could not figure out the misfire, and was not in a position to "farm it out". It hit me a few minutes ago that maybe he did not want to drive 20 miles to pick me up in the SUV, as that may have shown the misfire/ check engine light trouble.

Wish I would of brought a code reader with me.... but "that's life".
Referring to him as a mechanic is quite generous. Don’t give the good ones a bad name.
 
At best the misfire is due to a failed ignition component or fuel injector. At worst there is a mechanical problem. Hopefully the Ford dealer can diagnose it quickly.
Agreed. Hopefully the "mechanic" put some Autozone coils on there and it's as simple as a flakey import coil.

At least on 2V'S I've seen the plastic coil connector "latch" clips broken off and fall down the head and get wedged next to the spark plug hex, preventing the coil boot from seating.

Maybe the "mechanic" disturbed the fuel rail and an injector o-ring is leaking....or this alleged/apparent fire melted an o-ring.

Curious what the Ford dealer finds....this thread is like my present day search for Malaysian Air 370!! I'm on the edge of my seat with popcorn......er, maybe I should get a life
 
Good luck with the drive home. Will hope it's something simple.

Maybe you can get Autozone to pull codes for you? Maybe you'll luck out at the Ford dealer, let's hope for that.
 
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Agreed. Hopefully the "mechanic" put some Autozone coils on there and it's as simple as a flakey import coil.

At least on 2V'S I've seen the plastic coil connector "latch" clips broken off and fall down the head and get wedged next to the spark plug hex, preventing the coil boot from seating.

Maybe the "mechanic" disturbed the fuel rail and an injector o-ring is leaking....or this alleged/apparent fire melted an o-ring.

Curious what the Ford dealer finds....this thread is like my present day search for Malaysian Air 370!! I'm on the edge of my seat with popcorn......er, maybe I should get a life

I had a troublesome misfire on a Crown Victoria one time and ended up finding a frayed wire going to the COP.
 
At the Ford dealer right now. Vehicle is seeing misfires right from the start up. Low compression on cylinders 7 and 8 (computer diagnosed- not manual compression test). Engine is running lean.

Ford tech asked for another one-hour approval. He is going to manually check compression on cylinders 7 and 8. I went over the work the prior mechanic did, wondering if timing may be off.

The mechanic that installed the motor was supposed to install all new DENSO COPs.
 
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