Installing exhaust systems

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I go for parts and clamp stuff together. The cat back connections on my 528e s are nuts and bolts. I use grade 2 5/16 hardware instead of OEM 8mm. The down pipes arent too bad to R+R Put a 6 point socket on one side and a vice grip on t'other. Saa-nap. It is a very nice system. The one on Grand Wagoneer is horrible to work on. U clamps on my Jeep are a PITA , but I often can re-use them.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Even if you get it loose from the catco there could be complex bends in your rusty complete unit that require further disassembly to get over the rear axle or some other hurdle.

A $20 harbor freight sawzall works wonders on this stuff.


Honda exhaust is under the suspension. Once it cut from the back of the cat it can all drop to the ground.
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
I go for parts and clamp stuff together. The cat back connections on my 528e s are nuts and bolts. I use grade 2 5/16 hardware instead of OEM 8mm. The down pipes arent too bad to R+R Put a 6 point socket on one side and a vice grip on t'other. Saa-nap. It is a very nice system. The one on Grand Wagoneer is horrible to work on. U clamps on my Jeep are a PITA , but I often can re-use them.


LOL that's my system too, especially with muffler clamps. Hammer a socket on all the rust then yank the 18" breaker bar. Enough sideways shear force and they don't even have to try coming loose.
 
If he had shop facilities in winter, and all the tools necessary, he would not be asking about his exhaust.
For this guy - pay someone . Get some sort of a warranty.
 
Bosal and OEM are not the same, even when Bosal supposedly makes the OEM for the manufacturer. I was told by numerous people that the Bosal pieces for my Honda were the same as OEM. No way, it was like night and day. And on top of that the Bosal system was of a different design and would not meet up with some of the OEM pipes (you had to use Bosal from the engine back except for the cat). I bit the bullet and bought OEM parts from an online dealer at about twice the price, but everything fit and the quality was far better. The Honda OEM used double-walled pipes in some areas and the metal on the single thickness was heavier.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
If he had shop facilities in winter, and all the tools necessary, he would not be asking about his exhaust.
For this guy - pay someone . Get some sort of a warranty.


I actually do have shop facilities and tools. I work at a lube shop and have access to my car on a service bay with a pit after hours. I just wanted to know how hard these bolt would be before I ripped into everything.

I'm disappointed at this DIY crowd telling me to pay someone to do this.

By the way I took a look at it today and the one bolt I just broke off both side with a rachet. So that's good news. I'm going to get new gaskets and bolts and I'll post pictures in the next week when I'm done. So at the end I'll have saved a couple of bucks AND have the satisfaction of installing superior parts myself, instead of some cheaper stuff installed by some other guy for the same price.

And nobody thinks the guy telling me I have to keep the car there for 8 hours matters?? I can't afford to have the car away for that amount of time. And he quoted me $290 cash deal, there is no warranty. If he had to write it up it would be $400 after taxes.
 
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We did not know you had facilities available. It sure did not sound like you were comfortable at all doing this, otherwise why ask? Maybe WE are disappointed in YOU !

In your situation, by all means, do it yourself. Hacksaws, sawzalls, and torches make for quick removal. Don't screw around taking it apart.
When you assemble things, don't tighten anything hard until you have it loosely bolted together, and held in place in the alignment you want. You want body clearance - no future rattles or heat transfer. Use whatever: boxes, trans jacks, broomsticks, whatever.
 
I use mechanic's wire to hang the exhaust until I put in the proper hardware. After mkt Bosal exhaust parts are junk and fitment is spotty too. At least on 528es. If you are dealing with studs and have the room I would split the nuts with a sharp cold chisel or a dremel. Dont sweat nicking the stud, buy a few extra nuts and use them to chase the threads. Get yourself a tight fitting pair of goggles too.
 
Exhaust is easy, the only complication is rusty bolts and sometimes having to cut the old exhaust.

Soak the bolts with PB Blaster for several days. I didn't have to do this with my old truck, but it was from the South and the bolts were still in good shape. I replaced them with new ones anyway.

Use grease or Vaseline to help free up rubber hangars. You may want to go ahead and get new hangars.

For my truck, a Sawzall was needed to get the old exhaust off, but it wasn't a big deal. I didn't even raise the truck up at all...I just crawled under, cut the old exhaust off, and bolted on the Dynomax cat back kit.
 
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