Installing exhaust systems

Status
Not open for further replies.
S

silverrat

Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
1,849
So I went to an exhaust guy and he quoted me 290 to bend up the pipes and muffler. I need replacement from the cat back. He said I need to leave him the car for an entire day. I don't like the price and I cant leave my car there the whole day.

Online buying is not an option because of shipping costs to Canada. I found the prefab parts at a store and it costs $120 for the resonator pipe, $22 for the axle pipe and $100 for the muffler/tailpipe. I also need a couple gaskets.

Now is this something I can attempt myself? The only thing Im worried about is undoing the bolts on the cat to resonator flange. Once I get that off, the entire system comes off the hangers and I can bolt my pieces in.

What will it take to get those bolts off? I can I spray penetrating lube on there for several days before I attempt it. Will it help or am I going to have to cut/burn them off.

I don't have access to a torch either. Any tips?
 
Exhaust on Hondas are extremely easy with a torch. If the back of the cat has factory Honda studs then you won't be removing them without heat. If the cat back has aluminized garbage already installed then odds are it's just nut and bolted at that position. You will need a Dremel or something with a cutting disc and just cut the bolts off. The rest is easy, cut the hangers and the system is on the ground.

If you do attempt to do it yourself, you will need the spring bolt kit at the axle pipe and the donut gasket. The ring gasket in the cat (if its stock cat) is reusable. Don't worry about prying that little ring out just to stuff a new one in there. It will seal, trust me. At the cat you will need either 3/8s nuts bolts and washers or can be substituted with 5/16s bolts/nuts/washers.
 
We do exhaust work here. It's very hard to make things fit, get the correct bends etc. If you don't like the price shop around and see if you can get a lower price.

I'd never attempt exhaust work at home. This is one place where an expert is a better choice.
 
Yes you can DIY. I would have a sawzall and angle grinder handy though for stubborn fasteners. An 18 inch breaker bar is long enough for leverage but small enough to fit under the car in your driveway. Count on the catco fasteners breaking, if they're studs just knock 'em out with a hammer and replace with nuts and bolts.
 
Originally Posted By: tom slick
So you're going to cobble something together to save $48?


All the pieces come pre made ready to bolt on to each other. I can get something pre made for my car and any shop can just bolt it in 10 minutes.

The guy wants $290 is going to bend them all one-off using the cheapest aluminized steel he can get and spend the whole day doing it. I cant afford to have the car sit there for a whole day.

Id rather pay a litte more and get it done fast with better quality parts. If I can do it myself then ill save that much.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Yes you can DIY. I would have a sawzall and angle grinder handy though for stubborn fasteners. An 18 inch breaker bar is long enough for leverage but small enough to fit under the car in your driveway. Count on the catco fasteners breaking, if they're studs just knock 'em out with a hammer and replace with nuts and bolts.


I'm doing this at work where I have a pit I can work under the car comfortably. The only old fasteners I have to worry about are on the cat since everything else is getting junked as one big piece.
 
Well, the way I see it, you're in Toronto in the middle of winter, thinking about doing an exhaust on a 15 year old import.

Do yourself a huge favor and spend the $300.00.
 
See if their is a cat back system online???? An impact gun and a propane torch are not must haves but they make the day go by fast. If you have act/O2 aka hot wrench you can have stuff off in minutes!
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Well, the way I see it, you're in Toronto in the middle of winter, thinking about doing an exhaust on a 15 year old import.

Do yourself a huge favor and spend the $300.00.


What does being in the middle of winter matter?
 
If the pipes go together with flanges, not slipping into each other, I would do it myself. I have done it in the driveway, in the winter, on an '80 Accord , an '86 Saab 9000, and a '87 F250, and I'm not a mechanic. A cut off wheel really helps as it's a bear to hacksaw the old pipes off. Get all the parts together and you can do it in a Saturday afternoon. Good luck and have fun.
 
I'm with silverrat. I too am crazy enough to do my own exhaust work in the middle of winter. I just don't like taking my car to a shop. Nobody has installed exhaust systems on my cars besides myself.

I don't like to use a cutoff torch in my garage. I've always used hacksaws to take exhaust systems apart, though now I have access to an abrasive cutoff saw. The critical part of the job is the converter mounting flange. At worst case those bolts will have to be cut off (if you can get at them).

As far as putting the new parts on, first dry-fit the parts. You may have to trim some material where the parts may be too long. More importantly, I file down the edges and weld seams so I get a good slip fit of the parts without binding. A dremmel grinder helps. The exhaust systems I've bought have always been a decent fit. I make any needed gaskets (e.g., converter flange gasket) out of copper sheet. Make sure to use copious amounts of anti-seize on the threaded fasteners.
 
Even if you get it loose from the catco there could be complex bends in your rusty complete unit that require further disassembly to get over the rear axle or some other hurdle.

A $20 harbor freight sawzall works wonders on this stuff.
 
In the early days I worked in muffler shops and nowadays the almighty Sawzall or equivalent is the preferred tool. Rotary cut off tools are big. Fuel lines were still made out of steel back when the torch was king. Hot slag down the shirt/pants/shoes is then avoided. Just replace all nutted/bolted fasteners, donut seals. Flanges can usually be reused. Inspect hangers for possible replacement. I believe parts house pre bent replacement parts ar far better quality than the flathead at the muff shop can bend up. Muff shop pipe is usually inferior quality & they like to weld the lifetime guarantee $10 dollar muffler on. Most modern car factory pipes are high nickel content and although can appear old/rusty, they are usually solid/reusable.
 
I would do it yourself OP. It's not too hard and you can make sure you get the OEM replacements. Only place in Canada is Autoparstway, and you get free shipping.

I believe OEM for your car is BOSAL.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

I
Exhaust hardware
Replies
4
Views
452
Cujet
A
  • Locked
Fabing an interchangeable muffler delete pipe for Volvo S60R
Replies
13
Views
1K
Astro14
T
Universal exhaust bushings.
Replies
2
Views
654
Toaster
eljefino
Stripped o2 sensor threads, 95 Miata
Replies
13
Views
523
eljefino
TiGeo
Rigged up a catch can
Replies
14
Views
679
TiGeo
Back
Top Bottom