Inspection Questions

[heypete]

Hi folks,

I'm looking into doing a bit more shadetree mechanic-ing than just changing the oil, oil filter, air filter, etc. Ideally, I'd like to most of my own service, as it would likely save me money, gives me something interesting to do, and I don't have anyone to blame but me

.

I've got a copy of the shop manual for my 2006 Toyota Camry, and was thinking about getting a Haynes manual as it seems a bit more geared for the DIYer. Good idea?

But I digress. I was looking through the Toyota-specified service recommendations, and they include such things like "Inspect ball joints and dust covers" and "Inspect steering linkage and boots". What, exactly, is one looking for here? Damage to boots, leaking fluids/grease, etc. should be easier to spot, but is there any more specific things one should do?

In the steering linkage inspection section, the shop manual mentions things like "Check if the tie rod ends do not have excessive play" but do not define (or I can't find where they define) "excessive play".

Similarly, they say that one should tighten bolts and nuts on the chassis "if necessary" -- I trust that it's not necessary to go around and attempt to tighten every bolt and nut on the chassis, right? It seems that with the build-up of road grime and whatnot, the nuts and bolts stick together more tightly, rather than get loose.

Much of the shop manual details teardowns and overhauls for the various components, but doesn't really indicate when it's necessary do to such service -- I trust it's when the part fails inspection in some way, rather than on a time/mileage interval, right?

Is there anything in particular that one should inspect on a regular basis (e.g. at every oil change)? Anything one should inspect on a more extended interval (e.g. every year or two, but not at every oil change)?

Thanks!

 

[Billbert]

If you know of a GOOD private repair shop, just ask the owner or manager if you pay for an inspection, would they show you what they are looking for. Most private shops would be willing to show you exactly what to look for.

 

[crinkles]

I have the Haynes for my 05. It is good, but, sometimes there are lacking steps or poor editing with inclusions from other cars. I can't think of something off the top of my head. their tyre rotation diagramme is at odds with the owners manual.

the manual points out which chassis mounting bolts to tighten. there is about 6 on each side back/front of the car, with torque specs.

no matter how much i read it some things i am just not comfortable doing as i have never seen it done (e.g. replace rotors and pads, something i wish i could do myself).

as for servicing intervals the haynes manual has mileage recommendations.

 

[The Critic]

I always rotate the tires at every oil change.

When I raise the car, I always grab the front tires at the 9 and 3 positions and attempt to rock the tire from side-to-side. If there is any play, then you have a problem with the tie rod ends.

I also grab the tire at the 12 and 6 positions and rock the tire. If there is play, then the wheel bearings are likely bad.

For ball joints, check for cracks on the dust covers. I also take a prybar or breaker bar and pry against the ball joint to check for any play. If there is any play, the ball joint needs to be replaced.

These small checks only add minutes to the service. They can all be done while the oil is draining.

 

[heypete]

Originally Posted By: crinkles
no matter how much i read it some things i am just not comfortable doing as i have never seen it done (e.g. replace rotors and pads, something i wish i could do myself).


Rotors and pads are cake, at least on my dad's 1997 Avalon and my friend's 1992 Tercel.

Other than taking the wheel off, pad changing involves removing only two six-sided bolts on the caliper, swinging the caliper up (being sure to support it, rather than have it hang by the brake hose), removing the old pads, compressing the piston with a c-clamp, putting the new pads (with anti-squeak grease at appropriate points) in, putting the caliper back in place, tightening the bolts back on, and putting the wheel on.

The rotor changing is basically the same as above, except that when you take the calipers you can then remove the old rotors right off the hub and put new rotors on. Really easy.

See http://www.cockeyed.com/lessons/brakeshoes/brakeshoes01.shtml

Originally Posted By: The Critic
I always rotate the tires at every oil change.

When I raise the car, I always grab the front tires at the 9 and 3 positions and attempt to rock the tire from side-to-side. If there is any play, then you have a problem with the tie rod ends.

I also grab the tire at the 12 and 6 positions and rock the tire. If there is play, then the wheel bearings are likely bad.

For ball joints, check for cracks on the dust covers. I also take a prybar or breaker bar and pry against the ball joint to check for any play. If there is any play, the ball joint needs to be replaced.

These small checks only add minutes to the service. They can all be done while the oil is draining.


Sounds quick and easy. Thanks.

 

[The_Jeff]

Another quick ball joint/ TRE check is just rocking the steering wheel back and forth about 5 inches in a parking space. When you get "the feel" you can feel slop when you reverse direction.

Also you can crank the wheel all the way so your TRE is sticking out and have an assistant rock the wheel while you feel the steering knuckle and TRE with the same hand. This makes the tiniest slop evident.

One fault with doing it in the air is the geometry changes and a tighter part of the ball joint interface is now involved. Ride height is a better but harder test.

Also bad ball joints often knock on bumps.

 

[mechtech2]

It would be extremely rare to have to tighten any suspension parts due to normal age/loosening.
MAYBE the sway bar end links a bit, to compensate for the seated in/squished rubber/urethane, or to simply stiffen the car up a bit - less sway on turns.

A good front steering check it to have someone wiggle the steering wheel back and forth rapidly about an inch or two, and check for what is NOT moving underneath the car. In other words, if all steering parts are moving with no slop, it is a good thing.