so my aunt has a 2000 elantra wagon. it had it share of issues. she only goes to the dealer so i am not really sure how much has been issues vs dealer making it up. they are screws they told her before they had to hook a scan tool in to check her axle cv joint . so i never really gave it to much attention until today. my saturn a relatives 04 focus sedan and my mom 09 focus and we have an 06 cobalt in the family. i noticed the hyundai had a much better rear seating room and door opening. also her car the body panels are closer together and the cars body just looks tighter. it has 150,000 and still runs good. so my question is this how high should i put the elantra on my list of cars to check out how does it compare to other cars reliability and driving wise. cars in question would be focus civic and corolla. any big trouble spots with them or things to watch for? thanks guys i hope we can have a good discussion. please understand i am trying to learn about an array of cars because when i bought my saturn other than knowing they are known oil users i didn't know all the other little quirks. i just want to be knowledgeable. thanks guys hope you had / are having a merry christmas.
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Those older Elantra wagons are durable cars. My family has had two with manual transmissions, one a 1999, the other a 2000. They have both had emissions system issues, specifically the purge solenoid that's $40 and an hour of fiddling with tiny hose clamps to replace. And, front wheel bearings are a known weakness that need a shop press to press in/out. Oh, brake rotors need Sawzalling off since they rust-weld to the hubs when anti-seize isn't used.
Aside from those issues, they're good-running, fairly reliable cars that are surprisingly quick in manual transmission form. They're a little noisy since that era of Hyundai didn't believe in sound insulation.
Aside from those issues, they're good-running, fairly reliable cars that are surprisingly quick in manual transmission form. They're a little noisy since that era of Hyundai didn't believe in sound insulation.
Propflux01
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Never heard issues with front bearings, and never had to sawzall a rotor off (There are two little screws that require removal to get rotor off), but sciphi is right on them being reliable albeit alittle noisy in the early years. only other thing is pre -2006 having timing belts, but they are relatively easy to change.
2007-10?? still have timing belts with the 2.0L engine. They are due every 60k (severe) but you can figure out how to change it yourself - it ain't hard.
Other than that, I worked on a 08 recently and thought the serviceability was quite good. Parts quality I am unsure about, but the condition of the drive belts that I pulled off was a bit scary considering the mileage:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...953#Post2830953
Other than that, I worked on a 08 recently and thought the serviceability was quite good. Parts quality I am unsure about, but the condition of the drive belts that I pulled off was a bit scary considering the mileage:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...953#Post2830953
T/belts due every 60k right there tells me a lower end auto. That was back in dinosaur days. No telli]ng how cheap or old design the rest of the car is.
timing belts are due every 60k because hyundai has a 100k powertrain warranty and does not want to replace engines because of failed timing belts. it is a "better safe thann sorry" interval. also, hyundai will only warranty a timing belt for 5/60 because it is wear and tear item.
these were great little cars. the only genuine trouble spot was the automatic transmissions. they do fail early without regular fluid changes. it was not a corporate transmission. it is almost the same unit used in the focus, escort, protege, sephia, some subarus, some mitsubishis, etc. fluid is toast by 60k, and transmission is toast by 75k if the fluid isn't changed. recommend changing every 30k.
these were great little cars. the only genuine trouble spot was the automatic transmissions. they do fail early without regular fluid changes. it was not a corporate transmission. it is almost the same unit used in the focus, escort, protege, sephia, some subarus, some mitsubishis, etc. fluid is toast by 60k, and transmission is toast by 75k if the fluid isn't changed. recommend changing every 30k.
My 2006 Elantra has been an extremely reliable car. I've had it since 2009, and maintenance has been minimal. The timing belt was changed at 85,000 miles (simple to do) and I put new struts on it at just over 100,000 miles. Other than those two items, it's been gas, fluids, tires and a set of spark plugs.
I easily get 34 mpg in the summer, 30 in the winter, and I currently have over 120,000 miles on the odometer.
I easily get 34 mpg in the summer, 30 in the winter, and I currently have over 120,000 miles on the odometer.
IMHO far superior car over Chevy Cobalt/Cavalier and Focus as far as driving/renting them. Not sure on ownership costs.
Much happier with these as rentals over the early small domestic offerings. Used and likely worn(your budget range) not sure how they hold up.
Much happier with these as rentals over the early small domestic offerings. Used and likely worn(your budget range) not sure how they hold up.
I worked on a circa 2000 one and it reminded me of a 1993 ish toyota. No dumb engine covers, decent access, decent design. The motor looked like it belonged in the car and didn't have goofy "adapter kit" hideouly long hoses, akward mounts, etc.
I don't look at timing belts as deal breakers/ makers, pro or con, though I'd do one on a hyundai assuming the previous owner was a gas & go, no maintenance sort of person. Two or three little round oil seals on the cam(s) and crank are usually a way more tight system than a timing cover with 20-some-odd fasteners trying to keep the engine dry. And it doesn't have gears and chains shearing down the oil constantly.
I don't look at timing belts as deal breakers/ makers, pro or con, though I'd do one on a hyundai assuming the previous owner was a gas & go, no maintenance sort of person. Two or three little round oil seals on the cam(s) and crank are usually a way more tight system than a timing cover with 20-some-odd fasteners trying to keep the engine dry. And it doesn't have gears and chains shearing down the oil constantly.
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