Induction Soldering Copper Plumbing Joints ?

billt460

billt460

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Does anyone have experience using one of these electric induction "torches" for soldering copper plumbing joints and fittings? The tool is somewhat expensive, but looks to be the ideal solution for soldering copper plumbing fittings in and around attics, wooden studs and drywall.

All without the fire danger associated with propane or MAPP gas torches. They come with various size "jaws" for different size pipe. I was wondering if there is a downside to them? Other than requiring using a 120 V outlet?

https://garrettwade.com/product/cop...3sCeTt0tmJ7H6CbjQmYvwvmhswZv780PdbGDiwnefNOvB
 
Thanks for that post.
This is a much smaller tool than the hydraulic crimpers I've seen.
I guess using them in buildings without power would be a problem.

edit: If it's "induction", why does it have to warm up?
 
Last edited:
billt460 said:
Does anyone have experience using one of these electric induction "torches" for soldering copper plumbing joints and fittings? The tool is somewhat expensive, but looks to be the ideal solution for soldering copper plumbing fittings in and around attics, wooden studs and drywall.

All without the fire danger associated with propane or MAPP gas torches. They come with various size "jaws" for different size pipe. I was wondering if there is a downside to them? Other than requiring using a 120 V outlet?

https://garrettwade.com/product/cop...3sCeTt0tmJ7H6CbjQmYvwvmhswZv780PdbGDiwnefNOvB
Click to expand...
I can't quite read the label and nothing in details - what is the current draw/watts? Probably would easily be OK with a 3-5Kw+ generator
 
Kira said:
Thanks for that post.
This is a much smaller tool than the hydraulic crimpers I've seen.
I guess using them in buildings without power would be a problem.

edit: If it's "induction", why does it have to warm up?
Click to expand...
I think it is basically a giant soldering iron combined with a pair of pliers. While it says "induction", it appears to really be "conduction" of heat.

Clearly not a true induction device since the following warning is provided in the instructional material: (Note: the PipeMaster gets very hot so be careful not to touch the tips until they are cool enough to handle safely.) While it eliminates the risk of an open flame, $210 is pricey for a tool that still produces heat up to 950 degrees Fahrenheit on contact.
 
Last edited:
The way this video shows it, perhaps it's not induction after all. If it were it shouldn't require a warm up. It does transfer heat rapidly once it's up and running. But that price is high if it amounts to nothing more than an electrically powered soldering iron.

 
Pablo said:
Was yers 120W or 220W?

Just think 60W per jaw would be weak alright
Click to expand...
That's just it, I plugged it into a Kill-A-Watt once, just to see how much electricity it was consuming, and it was way less than the stated wattage. Not completely sure, but probably the 120W version. Threw it out a while ago so I can't exactly check.
 
Inductive soldering stations have been around for a long time in electronics. It's not inductive cookware, it heats the tips (jaws in this case) via high frequency RF energy. These are always on a feedback loop so when the jaws reache temperature, the power is throttled back to maintain the temperature so you won't see full power continuously.

https://www.google.com/search?q=ind...INTQ3OWowajeoAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
 
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