quote:
Originally posted by slalom44:
A mechanical ball and spring mechanism that you describe would cause a differential pressure,resulting in far less oil flow across the bypass filter.
Yes it would
quote:
This is the opposite of what you want (which is why Amsoil's dual remote bypass setup has this, but in the opposite direction).
I been thinking about this for a wile, I agree that the oil flow through the bypass filter will be considerably reduced, but I do not think this will considerably lessen its effectiveness, my best rough guesstimate at high way speed the bypass filter sees all of the oil in about 3 minutes, if pressure and therefore flow (and I assume flow is proportional to pressure all other things equal?) is cut roughly in 1/2 to 1/3 it will take roughly 6 to 9 minutes to see all of the oil, that is not much time for a particle to hang about and cause wear, especially compared to the months and thousands of miles it would hang around without a bypass filter
quote:
Originally posted by Ken2:
Raven,
Due to the high resistance to flow of the bypass filter element and its orifice, it will have little if any flow at low oil pressure or with cold oil. I don't think you have a problem.
Ken
I agree that bypass flow at hot idle is not a real problem, if it was we would not see the good results people get from bypass filters, but I think it might be more oil flow than you think
the first bypass install I did on my Silverado 2500HD I put the return in the fill cap, I could remove the cap with the engine running and observe the flow, I was very surprised at how much oil got past that .040” orifice at warm idle at apox 25 psi per the dash gage(if it pushed that much past .040” makes you wonder how much it is pushing down a .500” oil galley) I wish I had measured the flow as it would shed more light into how this applies but I would guess it would fill a quart bottle in about 30 seconds, it was considerably less flow at cold idle even though the pressure was around 70psi,
the next vehicle to receive the bypass is a '96 Lx450, adding an in line valve will only add a few more minutes and dollars to the install, something worth it to me in the pursuit of tax free bypass filtration, in the dual bypass debate someone pointed out that the single bypasses take oil that was intended for the engines moving parts, most of the time at cruise and high RPM's this is excess oil that would have been relieved back to the pan if it were not instead filtered, but at idle and low RPM's when the relief is closed this is oil that was before going to moving parts and is now bypassed, again is this a not a problem but it bothers me
I know there is some questionable rough math here and lots of “Shade tree engineering” but I think all margins of error are on the safe side, the engine in question is well made and routinely makes 300K without bypass I want to make sure whatever I do does not have any possibility of reducing that # and in hope of increasing it
found something interesting the engine uses “oil nozzles” to cool the undrside of the piston and cylinder area, the incorporate a similar spring a ball mechanism to turn the nozzle off at low oil pressure, I may try to incorporate one of those into the bypass plumbing, not sure what pressure they cut off at though
