Implications of using a different oil 'each' time?

[21Rouge]

I have an 05 Vibe 5 speed (Corolla engine). This car will get 15000 km per year in Ontario Canada...70% town driving 30% hwy.

After the first 1000 km I put in Mobil 1 5w30. I have enough Mobil 1 set aside (got it on sale) to do a couple more changes with it. I will keep my eyes open for more Mobil 1 *on sale* but if push comes to shove I think I will buy any syn oil which is *on sale*.

Can I assume that I cant go too far wrong using *any* 100% synthetic for my engine?

If you have reservations about me jumping to and fro from oil to oil can you help me expand my repetoire to include complimentary easily obtained synthetics.

 

[David in Sugar Land]

Basically, if the different oils are correct for your climate and the car, you should not think twice about changing brands. The SL and SM synthetics are very, very good and like each other mixed or in serial-order fashion. As you state, you can't really go wrong with this.

Perhaps look for GC 0w30 on sale at AutoZone, snag a Pennzoil Platinum rebate coupon offer... stock up with a dozen or so when you see a good sale or rebate. Delvac 1 is usually a great bargain at regular WalMart price. Maybe add Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment too, or LC.

Keep changes at 10k max, and enjoy!

 

[rpn453]

In a vehicle that will see manufacturer's recommended intervals, which I'm assuming you'll do for warranty reasons, I don't think you can go wrong by using any oil that meets their specs (API SL or SM) and grade. If you want to put a synthetic in, why not; the extra expense is pretty minor compared to other costs of ownership!

I'd recommend a 0w30 for the winter though: for fuel economy, easier starts, and better flow to engine parts in the cold. I've used Tech 2000 (Wal-Mart) synthetic 0w30 for a couple of winters. It's only $5 a litre and it even has the JASO spec. The German Castrol is a VERY popular oil on this board and goes for about $7 a litre at the Wal-Marts here. Esso has a 0w30 at a good price too, if you can locate some. A 0w30 will also work fine in summer.

And it's OK to switch between oil brands.

 

[21Rouge]

quote:

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Originally posted by rpn453:
In a vehicle that will see manufacturer's recommended intervals, which I'm assuming you'll do for warranty reasons,

I'd recommend a 0w30 for the winter though: for fuel economy, easier starts, and better flow to engine parts in the cold.

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Of course I do appreciate the feedback. And I do plan to stick to manufacturer's instructions as I have 6/100,000 km warranty through GM. And in this regard the manual and engine only indicate the use of 5w30. If I stick to the letter of the law ie the car manual, can I still be creative and use a 0W-30?

What are the temp range for a 0W-30? Just trying to plan ahead as to what month I would make the switch.

 

[Mike242GT]

I think you'd be safe running GC 0w30 year round. I've run it all summer in Florida in a turbo.

 

[The_Jeff]

If you dig carefully in your vibe owner's manual you might find they allow synthetic 0w30 if it's going below -20'F. We get that advice here in the states and if anything you'd get better winterizing instructions.

If you can do a six month OCI, just say you were expecting temps that low before you changed your oil again or it was left over from last winter.

 

[21Rouge]

In any event I can try the 0w30 in my very out of warranty 2000 Montana van (mileage 104,000 km). With the new Vibe on the scene this van's routine is 5 km to work and 5 km back home. This must be particularly difficult in cold weather.

Btw fellow Ontarians, where does one get good pricing and availability for Esso XD-3 0W-30?

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Quote:
After the first 1000 km I put in Mobil 1 5w30.
================================================

Is that a good idea with your Corolla engine?

When does Toyota consider your vehicle "broken in"?

My last three new vehicles saw a switch to synthetic at almost 5 km.... around 3500 miles.

I think I'm in the km/miles conversion ballpark with those figures. I'm too tired right now to fetch me a chart.

 

[MN Driver]

My manual says 5w30 is "preferred for all conditions". Then goes to say that 0w30 synthetic can be used to ease winter starting and provide better protection for cold weather. After that it says that as long as you are above 0 degrees you could use 10w30 if 5w30 isn't available.

I suppose your manual with the corolla engine is different. That sucks. Either way there is no way your dealer will know what viscosity of oil you put in there being that oils shear down or thicken up out of grade anyway, and either way it is a 30 weight oil so it should all show the same if they do a used oil analysis on for whatever reason.

In my mind it all boils down to the fact that it is incredibly seldom that an engine fails under the warranty period anyway, so IMO, I wouldn't wait. But I'm not going to tell you what to do, just stating my viewpoint.

 

[21Rouge]

quote:

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Originally posted by MN Driver:
My manual says 5w30 is "preferred for all conditions". Then goes to say that 0w30 synthetic can be used to ease winter starting and provide better protection for cold weather. After that it says that as long as you are above 0 degrees you could use 10w30 if 5w30 isn't available.

I suppose your manual with the corolla engine is different. That sucks.

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I spoke too soon. I just checked the Vibe manual...and I quote:

"If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the
temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommend that you use either an SAE 5w30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0w30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low
temperatures."

 

[Islandvic]

I would assume that using different API SM Syn oils at spec'd OCI's for duration of warranty will have no adverse effect.

If untrue, manufacturers would have to spec a certain brand.

As far as I know, most manuals I have read state to use oils w/ Starburst Symbol, Energy Conserving, a spec'd API (SL, SM) rating, and a spec'd type in a given temp range (0-30, 5-30 etc).

Following those guidelines at spec'd OCI's will give you very healthy engine no matter whatbrand you use.

 

[titan77]

MN DRIVER, you better do some more reading about oil composition. A 5W30 oil is never anything more than a 5 weight oil. They add viscosity modifiers to change the readings @ 200 deg. F., but you still have a 5 weight oil. Ask some of the other guys here if I'm not right. I don't think you would put ATF in your engine, would you? Give it some thought. Of course, living in Minn. justifies using 5W30, but never think of it as a 30 weight.

 

[wavinwayne]

 

[AstroVic]

quote:

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Originally posted by titan77:
A 5W30 oil is never anything more than a 5 weight oil.

....using 5W30, but never think of it as a 30 weight.

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You are absolutely wrong.

A 5W30, 0W30, and 10W30 are all THIRTY WEIGHT oils.

 

[labman]

I refuse to use whatever is on sale this month. Pick something usually available and affordable and stick to it. If M1 is working, stick to it, even if you have to pay retail sometimes. That way if there ever is a problem, you have fewer variables to figure out.

Many engines retain a quart or 2 of the old oil when changed. Watch switching between a poly basic acid ester and a polyol ester. They could polymerize in your engine.

 

[MN Driver]

quote:

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Originally posted by titan77:
MN DRIVER, you better do some more reading about oil composition. A 5W30 oil is never anything more than a 5 weight oil. They add viscosity modifiers to change the readings @ 200 deg. F., but you still have a 5 weight oil. Ask some of the other guys here if I'm not right. I don't think you would put ATF in your engine, would you? Give it some thought. Of course, living in Minn. justifies using 5W30, but never think of it as a 30 weight.

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You need to read around a little on the forum before you say too much. A 5W30 oil is referred to as a 30 weight oil. This is also the second time I have seen you on the forums referring to 30 and 40 weight oils as ATF. There are very large differences between engine oil and ATF other than weight.

I don't think very many people agree with the following either.

quote:

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Originally posted by titan77:
If you all would take time to install and use a good bypass filter you could stop worrying about oil changes. If you would like more info. check out kleenoil.net
or email me.

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If you have a bypass filter, oil changes are still needed as oil oxidizes and the additives wear out, among other reasons. Also keep in mind that filters do need replacement as well.

 

[craigq]

quote:

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Originally posted by Boxgrover:
Btw fellow Ontarians, where does one get good pricing and availability for Esso XD-3 0W-30?

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I've had luck finding it at Walmart in multiple cities. It's in a black plastic 4L jug with a gold label on the front, below $25/4L IIRC.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

If you are not using oil or hearing clatter with your present brand & weight, you are a lucky fella'. Don't change until some use occurs.

If it ain't broke... don't break it experimenting!

 

[MN Driver]

A warm and happy

to the forum to you craigq!!

 

[21Rouge]

quote:

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Originally posted by craigq:

I've had luck finding it at Walmart in multiple cities. It's in a black plastic 4L jug with a gold label on the front, below $25/4L IIRC.

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Today I visited two Walmart's in the GTA in Ontario. The only Esso XD-3 they had was 0W-40

. Price was under $23 for the big jug.