Im all done contemplating on which oil!!

[Steve S]

Originally Posted By: fmj
I switched to Mobile Delvac Super 1300 15w40 earlier this year. I used to run Amsoil 15w40 and had great uao's, but I wasn't putting enough miles on in a year to justify using synthetics. It takes me about a year to put the 15k on the oil that was needed to justify the synthetic. So I did two oil changes and uao's at 7.5k miles using the Amsoil just to get a good baseline to compare the dino with. The first change that I made with the Delvac the uao's came back with lower iron count and everything else the same. This uao was on all towing miles with extreme hot (115 degrees) and cold snowy condition. I pulled some long hills with exhaust temps pushing limits so it was a good test. Will be coming up on second change in a month or so and expect it to be as good. This uao will also be on almost all towing but in extreme hot conditions. I agree with you that the dino usage will outlast the body and rest of the drivetrain. I can feel the earth shaking on this subject already.

If the egts are too high downshift and lighten up on the throttle you engine will love you for it.

 

[lazaro]

Originally Posted By: fmj
I switched to Mobile Delvac Super 1300 15w40 earlier this year. I used to run Amsoil 15w40 and had great uao's, but I wasn't putting enough miles on in a year to justify using synthetics. It takes me about a year to put the 15k on the oil that was needed to justify the synthetic. So I did two oil changes and uao's at 7.5k miles using the Amsoil just to get a good baseline to compare the dino with. The first change that I made with the Delvac the uao's came back with lower iron count and everything else the same. This uao was on all towing miles with extreme hot (115 degrees) and cold snowy condition. I pulled some long hills with exhaust temps pushing limits so it was a good test. Will be coming up on second change in a month or so and expect it to be as good. This uao will also be on almost all towing but in extreme hot conditions. I agree with you that the dino usage will outlast the body and rest of the drivetrain. I can feel the earth shaking on this subject already.

after 5 years and 40,000 miles using 5w30 HDD diesel Amsoil in my turbo diesel truck, my first oil sample was still good with a iron sample of 56ppm.
I didn't need to change it even after 5 years.
I used 10 gallons total, initial fill and makeup oil in 40,000 miles.
I have many other trucks with similar results, I have posted results here in the past.
how much is 10 gallons of Amsoil today? it was cheaper 5 years ago.

 

[Ponch]

Hey steve S. dont forget also with synthetic.......you will pull better ET's at the drag strip!, you turbo will spin SO MUCH faster than with conventional oil! hahahahah! You just might break axle's, and smoke your transmission with synthetic!!

 

[Ponch]

As dnewton3 posted on this thread earlier..... by paying "twice as much" at Walmart for Rotella T Synthetic 5w40...you wont get "twice as much" protection now!

 

[Bambam]

Originally Posted By: lazaro
Originally Posted By: fmj
I switched to Mobile Delvac Super 1300 15w40 earlier this year. I used to run Amsoil 15w40 and had great uao's, but I wasn't putting enough miles on in a year to justify using synthetics. It takes me about a year to put the 15k on the oil that was needed to justify the synthetic. So I did two oil changes and uao's at 7.5k miles using the Amsoil just to get a good baseline to compare the dino with. The first change that I made with the Delvac the uao's came back with lower iron count and everything else the same. This uao was on all towing miles with extreme hot (115 degrees) and cold snowy condition. I pulled some long hills with exhaust temps pushing limits so it was a good test. Will be coming up on second change in a month or so and expect it to be as good. This uao will also be on almost all towing but in extreme hot conditions. I agree with you that the dino usage will outlast the body and rest of the drivetrain. I can feel the earth shaking on this subject already.

after 5 years and 40,000 miles using 5w30 HDD diesel Amsoil in my turbo diesel truck, my first oil sample was still good with a iron sample of 56ppm.
I didn't need to change it even after 5 years.
I used 10 gallons total, initial fill and makeup oil in 40,000 miles.
I have many other trucks with similar results, I have posted results here in the past.
how much is 10 gallons of Amsoil today? it was cheaper 5 years ago.



10 GALLONS IN 40,000 MILES???? YIKES

That is 4 oil changes for me,you perhaps 3.75 so I don't see bragging about what equates to 10k oci's!

 

[bbslider001]

He is saying 10 gallons WITH initial fill AND make-up oil. That is almost ZERO adding of new oil.....so, think again.

 

[Bambam]

Originally Posted By: cowhorse01
He is saying 10 gallons WITH initial fill AND make-up oil. That is almost ZERO adding of new oil.....so, think again.


He has a CTD I believe,it takes gallons to fill???

 

[beanoil]

D1300 is a great oil, D1 is also. Not to confuse you, but you may be able to get the best of both worlds from a Mobil distributor...
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENCVLMOMobil_Delvac_Elite_15W-40.asp
I also found a little info from Chevron with their opinion on the dino vs syn based on geographic location and temps. Blue indicates where they feel there are enough days below 5 degrees to warrant switching to a synthetic oil.

 

[Johnny]

beanoil, don't that make you feel good that we live in the blue area? Yuk, I hate winter.

 

[Dupree]

I stocked up on rts before it went up, I have 2 years then have to decide

 

[bbslider001]

Originally Posted By: Bambam
Originally Posted By: cowhorse01
He is saying 10 gallons WITH initial fill AND make-up oil. That is almost ZERO adding of new oil.....so, think again.


He has a CTD I believe,it takes gallons to fill???


Oh [censored], you're right. I was thinking quarts.

Well then, 10 gallons IS a lot.

 

[Bambam]

Originally Posted By: cowhorse01
Originally Posted By: Bambam
Originally Posted By: cowhorse01
He is saying 10 gallons WITH initial fill AND make-up oil. That is almost ZERO adding of new oil.....so, think again.


He has a CTD I believe,it takes gallons to fill???


Oh [censored], you're right. I was thinking quarts.

Well then, 10 gallons IS a lot.


If I am right then running 10 gallons for 40k isn't a great test of oil,I think it could be done with cooking oil!

 

[fmj]

Originally Posted By: Bambam
Originally Posted By: cowhorse01
Originally Posted By: Bambam
Originally Posted By: cowhorse01
He is saying 10 gallons WITH initial fill AND make-up oil. That is almost ZERO adding of new oil.....so, think again.


He has a CTD I believe,it takes gallons to fill???


Oh [censored], you're right. I was thinking quarts.

Well then, 10 gallons IS a lot.


If I am right then running 10 gallons for 40k isn't a great test of oil,I think it could be done with cooking oil!


I just assumed when I read his post that he meant quarts but something still isn't right if he has a CTD. It takes 11 quarts to fill initially with filter. I would assume that he does his uao's somewhere around 20k, in which case it would take a quart for filter(if he changes) and/or loss (depending how he takes crankcase oil for sample) of oil which could be a quart?? Thats another 1 to 2 quarts each uao or 2 to 4 quarts total for the 40k total, which wouldn't have been bad. Wish he'd clarify. I hate going thru life confused

 

[Bambam]

Originally Posted By: fmj
Originally Posted By: Bambam
Originally Posted By: cowhorse01
Originally Posted By: Bambam
Originally Posted By: cowhorse01
He is saying 10 gallons WITH initial fill AND make-up oil. That is almost ZERO adding of new oil.....so, think again.


He has a CTD I believe,it takes gallons to fill???


Oh [censored], you're right. I was thinking quarts.

Well then, 10 gallons IS a lot.


If I am right then running 10 gallons for 40k isn't a great test of oil,I think it could be done with cooking oil!


I just assumed when I read his post that he meant quarts but something still isn't right if he has a CTD. It takes 11 quarts to fill initially with filter. I would assume that he does his uao's somewhere around 20k, in which case it would take a quart for filter(if he changes) and/or loss (depending how he takes crankcase oil for sample) of oil which could be a quart?? Thats another 1 to 2 quarts each uao or 2 to 4 quarts total for the 40k total, which wouldn't have been bad. Wish he'd clarify. I hate going thru life confused

Me too!

 

[1sttruck]

My 5.9Cummins in a 2003 Dodge takes 3 gallons per change.

 

[Bambam]

Originally Posted By: 1sttruck
My 5.9Cummins in a 2003 Dodge takes 3 gallons per change.


Thanks for that info.

So then assuming 3 gallons per change then boasting about 10 gallons in 40k is really not impressive at all.

 

[TiredTrucker]

Originally Posted By: 1sttruck
My 5.9Cummins in a 2003 Dodge takes 3 gallons per change.



My 14L Cummins ISX takes 11 gallons per oil change. OOPS... was thinking of my previous Cummins N-14, the ISX takes 12 gallons.

 

[tr4petty]

I've never used a synthetic oil. Thought about it a few times but never did. I guess I just can't justify in my mind the extra expense for something that doesn't really seem to be necessary. You see, I've been driving since the '60s and I've never had an oil-related engine failure on any vehicle I've owned. I've used everything from Quaker State to Castrol to Havoline, Valvoline, etc. For the past several years I've used Mopar oil because I get it with my Rewards points from using a Dodge Visa credit card. I pay the card off every month and have never had to pay any interest but I still accumulate rewards points which I can go online and trade for "Dealer Dollars" that spend just like cash at any Chrysler, Dodge, or Jeep Dealer for anything they have. I have been buying my oil and filters with Dealer Dollars for about 7 or 8 years now so it's just like getting all my oil and filters for free. You can't beat that price, no matter how you measure it and I've never had any type of oil-related problem using the Mopar stuff. I've been told by several different sources that the Mopar oil is Mobil and their filters are Purolator; both good products.

 

[bobfather99]

Originally Posted By: Ponch
.....it's gonna be delvac 15w40 conventional in my 2007 duramax (year round) Im not gonna pay double that for a readily available group III synthetic (Rotella 5w40). I saw the price of the Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 at Walmart....DOUBLE the price of delvac,it's not gonna give me DOUBLE the protection now. I will use the OLM and change accordingly,...I'll bet that the body will fall off of the frame of this truck before I have any major engine problems on this tried and true HDEO! Chime in any and everyone!
-Ponch


Delvac is a great oil, dont worry about it...
Watch the Delvac website, they sometimes have a $3 coupon on gallon jugs, which makes it an even better oil....

Corretc me if Im wrong, but isnt Delvac factory fill on Duramaxes anyway???

 

[Steve S]

Run the syn oil 2X longer!!!!!!