That stuff works OK, but it's overpriced for what it is....... Basically Mineral Oil in a aerosol can.
If WD40 isnt a good lubricant, what is?
- Thread starter Mid570
- Start date
I know you can get Bilt hamber products in the US now. Their Ferrosol is just an amazing all round maintenance spray, I've never heard one bad word said about it.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
I still use squirt cans - 0W16 I grabbed from a sale rack …
PBB (agree it stinks) on tough bolts… WD40 ? Silicone and lithium grease sprays …
I reserve 3 in 1 for when it just takes a drop or two …
For general oiling I use whatever I have open - at the moment it is a bottle of 10W fork oil.
For dewatering I'll use WD40 or GT85 but will always follow-up with real oil if the part needs to remain oily.
Grease - I have a tub of general-purpose lithium grease plus a can of spray white Li grease. Also anti-seize (copper) and some silicone grease.
For easing fluid I use Plus-Gas, which also makes a useful cleaner for oil- based contaminants.
Cleaning - carb intake cleaner is good for many cleaning needs and I have a can of brake rotor cleaner too, in case I over-spray something onto a rotor on my bicycles or motorbike.
A bottle of acetone also comes in useful, and some isopropyl alcohol for surface degreasing.
For dewatering I'll use WD40 or GT85 but will always follow-up with real oil if the part needs to remain oily.
Grease - I have a tub of general-purpose lithium grease plus a can of spray white Li grease. Also anti-seize (copper) and some silicone grease.
For easing fluid I use Plus-Gas, which also makes a useful cleaner for oil- based contaminants.
Cleaning - carb intake cleaner is good for many cleaning needs and I have a can of brake rotor cleaner too, in case I over-spray something onto a rotor on my bicycles or motorbike.
A bottle of acetone also comes in useful, and some isopropyl alcohol for surface degreasing.
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2020
- Messages
- 201
I’m trying to like dry lube but so far unimpressed on sliding door tracks. Doesn’t seem to last long at all. Really like PBB for penetrant. Liquid wrench spray, motor oil in a squirt can, and tranny fluid for lubricant. SG for degreaser, Super clean if I need something stronger. Tranny fluid if my hands are super greasy. If I’m in a hurry (mostly if I’m impatient) starting fluid cleans any and everything I have ever sprayed it on (probably caustic) along with brake cleaner. I was a straight WD40 guy until BITOG taught me about all of these…it opened up a new world
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Try the WD-40 Specialist quick drying Silicone Lube that is pictured on page 1. (It's the can on the right). It goes on wet, then dries. I just bought some for use on my sliding glass door tracks, and it works pretty well. It doesn't pick up dust and dirt as readily. My dog goes in and out 100 times a day, so that door really gets a workout..... So far, so good.
Corrosion X is absolutely a great lubricant. While it was engineered to provide corrosion protection for aircraft structures, those same properties and additives make it a fantastic lubricant. FYI, The firearms, aviation, and standard versions are exactly the same. In the end, Corrosion X has turned out to be among the very best products. Aircraft manufacturers now specify it for it's lubrication properties. It's used on everything from landing gear bushings to flight controls.
I've always liked TriFlow for bicycle chains. While it tended to attract dirt in dusty or poor conditions, if the bicycle ride was a clean one, such as down the Florida coastline along the beach road, the product performed very well.
I've always liked TriFlow for bicycle chains. While it tended to attract dirt in dusty or poor conditions, if the bicycle ride was a clean one, such as down the Florida coastline along the beach road, the product performed very well.
School me. Yrs ago my BIL gave me a can of foaming "rusty bolts". Spray it on an in a few minutes the foam turned rust colored. It was a ZEP product, IIRC. What is in the stuff that would do that? TIA.
^ Probably just (one or combination of) acid(s) and detergent solution, maybe also a thickener for the foaming action.
It’s difficult to determine what a product contains or how it works without knowing it identification. It might be ZEP Rust Breaker. This product contains 1,1-diflouroethane as its propellant. It is used at up to 90% in the aerosol can. Its rapid evaporation is the likely cause of the foaming action. Acetone and MIBK are present. These are strong solvents. They have low viscosities which promotes penetration. Their rapid evaporation causes small cracks in rusted joints due to thermal differences. Once these cracks form, they tend to open further for the same reason. The fluid penetrates further and, as the solvents evaporate, a thin film of oleic acid, a slippery fatty acid, is left on the surfaces making separating the joint easier.
This product is a pure rust buster. It is a penetrant but not a lubricant.
I use PB Blaster and Kroil with good success, I also have access to LPS-2 but haven't used it yet.
My recent WD-40 story.
After installing the new timing belt, tensioner and idler on the Lexus, I went to turn the engine over by hand the two crankshaft rotations per the FSM to confirm the belt and timing marks lined up again. I get ~30 degrees past TDC on the first rotation engine hits a hard stop. WTH? I reverse course and before reaching TDC the engine again hits that hard stop in approximately the same place.
I then remove the cam covers and everything appears OK. The valve buckets that are on the base circle are all at the same height. I rotate the crank and check the remaining buckets that I can and bucket heights are the same. I then pull the cams to make **** sure the valves are closed. Buckets are all at the same height. I then air check the cylinders to see if there's leakage - none. I even stuck a camera into the plug holes (really needed a 90-degree lens). Even with the cams out and valves closed, a piston still hits that hard stop.
I set this one aside to think.
A few months later on a Lexus forum, come across someone that had the same issue. He came across someone that had the same issue but with a 4 cyl. Mazda. Mazda guy removed the head and discovers that a piece of carbon dislodged from a piston top locking up the engine. The Lexus guy figured the same thing happened to him because he spent a good amount of time hammering the crankshaft bolt with an impact as did Mazda guy. Lexus guy sprays WD-40 into the cylinders through the spark plug holes in a effort to "dissolve" the carbon. It works.
What the heck. I buy another can of WD-40 (does anyone else find they stop spraying about 1/4 way into the can?) and douse the cylinders through the spark plug holes and let it sit overnight. Go out the next day and the crankshaft turns for days. No hard stops or stops what-so-ever.
I will probably never know what the root cause was. WD-40 - better than MMO.
After installing the new timing belt, tensioner and idler on the Lexus, I went to turn the engine over by hand the two crankshaft rotations per the FSM to confirm the belt and timing marks lined up again. I get ~30 degrees past TDC on the first rotation engine hits a hard stop. WTH? I reverse course and before reaching TDC the engine again hits that hard stop in approximately the same place.
I then remove the cam covers and everything appears OK. The valve buckets that are on the base circle are all at the same height. I rotate the crank and check the remaining buckets that I can and bucket heights are the same. I then pull the cams to make **** sure the valves are closed. Buckets are all at the same height. I then air check the cylinders to see if there's leakage - none. I even stuck a camera into the plug holes (really needed a 90-degree lens). Even with the cams out and valves closed, a piston still hits that hard stop.
I set this one aside to think.
A few months later on a Lexus forum, come across someone that had the same issue. He came across someone that had the same issue but with a 4 cyl. Mazda. Mazda guy removed the head and discovers that a piece of carbon dislodged from a piston top locking up the engine. The Lexus guy figured the same thing happened to him because he spent a good amount of time hammering the crankshaft bolt with an impact as did Mazda guy. Lexus guy sprays WD-40 into the cylinders through the spark plug holes in a effort to "dissolve" the carbon. It works.
What the heck. I buy another can of WD-40 (does anyone else find they stop spraying about 1/4 way into the can?) and douse the cylinders through the spark plug holes and let it sit overnight. Go out the next day and the crankshaft turns for days. No hard stops or stops what-so-ever.
I will probably never know what the root cause was. WD-40 - better than MMO.
I have 2 cans of the stuff. It works great.Since we at Bitog are moly freaks, the Gasoila Lube-It-All spray contains Moly.
FedPro: Lubricants
Gasoila Chemicals has been manufacturing penetrating oil for over 40 years. Our Gasoila products are, quite simply, solutions that work in the petroleum, plumbing, JP gas, HVAC, automotive and industrial markets. Our lubricants and penetrating oils are proudly Made in the USA.www.amazon.com
Regular WD40 isn't a good lube. Their more specialized offerings seem to work well. I use WD-40 Specialist Protective White Lithium Grease Spray on hinges.
Sorry, but I can't buy into WD-40 dissolving carbon deposits. Will not happen. No offense intended.My recent WD-40 story.
After installing the new timing belt, tensioner and idler on the Lexus, I went to turn the engine over by hand the two crankshaft rotations per the FSM to confirm the belt and timing marks lined up again. I get ~30 degrees past TDC on the first rotation engine hits a hard stop. WTH? I reverse course and before reaching TDC the engine again hits that hard stop in approximately the same place.
I then remove the cam covers and everything appears OK. The valve buckets that are on the base circle are all at the same height. I rotate the crank and check the remaining buckets that I can and bucket heights are the same. I then pull the cams to make **** sure the valves are closed. Buckets are all at the same height. I then air check the cylinders to see if there's leakage - none. I even stuck a camera into the plug holes (really needed a 90-degree lens). Even with the cams out and valves closed, a piston still hits that hard stop.
I set this one aside to think.
A few months later on a Lexus forum, come across someone that had the same issue. He came across someone that had the same issue but with a 4 cyl. Mazda. Mazda guy removed the head and discovers that a piece of carbon dislodged from a piston top locking up the engine. The Lexus guy figured the same thing happened to him because he spent a good amount of time hammering the crankshaft bolt with an impact as did Mazda guy. Lexus guy sprays WD-40 into the cylinders through the spark plug holes in a effort to "dissolve" the carbon. It works.
What the heck. I buy another can of WD-40 (does anyone else find they stop spraying about 1/4 way into the can?) and douse the cylinders through the spark plug holes and let it sit overnight. Go out the next day and the crankshaft turns for days. No hard stops or stops what-so-ever.
I will probably never know what the root cause was. WD-40 - better than MMO.
I have an old Weber barbecue kettle that's been baking out on the patio for the last 3 years. I'll give it a good soaking with WD-40, and report back. If it cleans that thing, a few scrawny Lexus pistons should be a cake walk.
There are going to be differences between layers of soot and moist cooking grease in a brazier vs compact, hardened homogenous carbon deposits in an engine.
And that lady washing her car in post #18....ask her if she wants a cigarette.
And that lady washing her car in post #18....ask her if she wants a cigarette.
JHZR2
Staff member
Right now I am trying Free All and Gibbs. Only tried them on a couple of jobs but my first impressions are both perform as well or better than Kroil but the Gibbs is the most pleasant smelling to use, the Free All is a rough customer like the newer formula Liquid Wrench.
I don't know but Kroil does not seem as potent as it was some years ago. Video's by Project Farm and AvE seem to come to the same conclusion.
I don't know but Kroil does not seem as potent as it was some years ago. Video's by Project Farm and AvE seem to come to the same conclusion.
Fluid film works great as a lube/preserve
ATF/ acetone is my pref for a nut buster.
Hang two chainsaw chains from hooks side by side...ATF will stay on the chain longer then almost any other "lube"
ATF/ acetone is my pref for a nut buster.
Hang two chainsaw chains from hooks side by side...ATF will stay on the chain longer then almost any other "lube"
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