how long can any synthetic go without a sweat?
If any dino can break 5 k without a sweat.....
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Probably 7.5-10k on an average without a sweat.
If's an API certified synthetic, probably the same as dino.
JHZR2
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you can go further than 5k on dino without a sweat. Syn oil can go longer, but every situation is different, so its not that easy to know exactly. People err on the safe side because of the ocst of an engine.
Syn oils give superior protection at the extremes.
JMH
Syn oils give superior protection at the extremes.
JMH
There is a huge misconception that "full" synthetics can automatically perform longer than than all conventional oils and it's simply not true across the board. There are several companies that can produce conventional and blends that can outperform most if not all of your mass-merchant "synthetics". Schaeffer,LE,Texas Lubricants are a few that have blends that would not be considered a full-synthetic by most purists that do quite well in extended drain situations.
I've run 7000 series well past 10K with better results than many of your gruop3&4 synthetics. I realy don't think there is a full conventional oil sold by the major marketers of oil today. They all consist of varying blends.
Perhaps marketing has too many folks automatically thinking that because one oil is marketed as a synthetic and is $6 a qt. it has to better than the $2.50 "conventional". Not neccessarily picking on Castrol but I think their own advertising reveals what I am trying to say. They boldly claim that their Syntec line performed 22-23 percent better than the "leading" conventional oil. They just admitted that a $2 jug of dino came very close to performing just as well as a $6-plus synthetic in their own very unscientific tests. The problem is that every application is so different that you simply can't put a mileage limit on any oil whether it be marketed as conventional or synthetic. I have customers that are going 10K easily with good dino/blends and other customers that could'nt run any "full synthetic" for 10K because of sump size,engine design,vehicle useage.
I think by 2010 this whole dino vs. synthetic thing will be past. I don't know what the few PAO only snobs will do then. The very idea of running veggie extracts must have them double-dosing their happy-pills.
I've run 7000 series well past 10K with better results than many of your gruop3&4 synthetics. I realy don't think there is a full conventional oil sold by the major marketers of oil today. They all consist of varying blends.
Perhaps marketing has too many folks automatically thinking that because one oil is marketed as a synthetic and is $6 a qt. it has to better than the $2.50 "conventional". Not neccessarily picking on Castrol but I think their own advertising reveals what I am trying to say. They boldly claim that their Syntec line performed 22-23 percent better than the "leading" conventional oil. They just admitted that a $2 jug of dino came very close to performing just as well as a $6-plus synthetic in their own very unscientific tests. The problem is that every application is so different that you simply can't put a mileage limit on any oil whether it be marketed as conventional or synthetic. I have customers that are going 10K easily with good dino/blends and other customers that could'nt run any "full synthetic" for 10K because of sump size,engine design,vehicle useage.
I think by 2010 this whole dino vs. synthetic thing will be past. I don't know what the few PAO only snobs will do then. The very idea of running veggie extracts must have them double-dosing their happy-pills.
it's better to pick the "Long-Life" oil like Mobil 1 Extended Performance if u decide to go with longer OCI, they are really designed for longer OCI
regular syn doens't have that much TBN if u look at the numbers, most of the Amsoil are Long Life and so does Motul, but they are really pricy
my car has a fully built racing engine so i have to change oil every 2000 miles due to fuel dilution, everyone has a car, living in a different place and different driving style, so u have to see which category u r at.
since u r living in Canada like I do, I recommend follow the OEM OCI, the oil is beaten up pretty bad during winter time.
regular syn doens't have that much TBN if u look at the numbers, most of the Amsoil are Long Life and so does Motul, but they are really pricy
my car has a fully built racing engine so i have to change oil every 2000 miles due to fuel dilution, everyone has a car, living in a different place and different driving style, so u have to see which category u r at.
since u r living in Canada like I do, I recommend follow the OEM OCI, the oil is beaten up pretty bad during winter time.
Stick to manufacturer recommendations on oil changes if still under warranty. It's not worth the trouble if you have issues. I believe 5k on conventional is safe and 7.5k is safe on synthetic. My plan is 5k on conventional until warranty is up on our new camry. At that time, I will be switching to pennzoil platinum and changing on 7.5k intervals. I'll probably do a used oil analysis on the first extended drain just to see how well oil had performed.
The few PAO only snobs will probably be the only ones meeting the new OEM oil spec requirments. The rest of the world will be using groups 1,2,2+, and3. Here in the EPA capitol of the world, we'll have to use group 4 PAO ... Just watch and see. Atleast a grp 3&4 blend like Mobil 1 ......
Originally Posted By: mitchcoyote
The few PAO only snobs will probably be the only ones meeting the new OEM oil spec requirments. The rest of the world will be using groups 1,2,2+, and3. Here in the EPA capitol of the world, we'll have to use group 4 PAO ... Just watch and see. Atleast a grp 3&4 blend like Mobil 1 ......
I'm willing to bet the "hot ticket" when it comes to oil won't have a drop of PAO in it. MANY more oils will going the RLI pathway to meet ever-increasing specs. PAO is old school and not cost-efficient. The technology is here to get better-than PAO performance from other sources.
The few PAO only snobs will probably be the only ones meeting the new OEM oil spec requirments. The rest of the world will be using groups 1,2,2+, and3. Here in the EPA capitol of the world, we'll have to use group 4 PAO ... Just watch and see. Atleast a grp 3&4 blend like Mobil 1 ......
I'm willing to bet the "hot ticket" when it comes to oil won't have a drop of PAO in it. MANY more oils will going the RLI pathway to meet ever-increasing specs. PAO is old school and not cost-efficient. The technology is here to get better-than PAO performance from other sources.
Originally Posted By: Mokanic
I'm willing to bet the "hot ticket" when it comes to oil won't have a drop of PAO in it. MANY more oils will going the RLI pathway to meet ever-increasing specs. PAO is old school and not cost-efficient. The technology is here to get better-than PAO performance from other sources.
RLI has PAO.
Please explain the PAO hate. It makes no sense. It's just a base oil. I'm not in love with PAO, but I don't hate it either. Lots of good properties, some weaknesses.
I'm willing to bet the "hot ticket" when it comes to oil won't have a drop of PAO in it. MANY more oils will going the RLI pathway to meet ever-increasing specs. PAO is old school and not cost-efficient. The technology is here to get better-than PAO performance from other sources.
RLI has PAO.
Please explain the PAO hate. It makes no sense. It's just a base oil. I'm not in love with PAO, but I don't hate it either. Lots of good properties, some weaknesses.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: Mokanic
I'm willing to bet the "hot ticket" when it comes to oil won't have a drop of PAO in it. MANY more oils will going the RLI pathway to meet ever-increasing specs. PAO is old school and not cost-efficient. The technology is here to get better-than PAO performance from other sources.
RLI has PAO.
Please explain the PAO hate. It makes no sense. It's just a base oil. I'm not in love with PAO, but I don't hate it either. Lots of good properties, some weaknesses.
I'm not sure what you mean by PAO hate. The term I used was PAO only snobs. They are easy to spot. Their only criteria for a good oil is that it be PAO based. That's the first question that they always ask. If an oil is a blend of varying base oils they automatically assume it won't perform as well as a PAO based oil and the company marketing it is trying to screw them.
Originally Posted By: Mokanic
I'm willing to bet the "hot ticket" when it comes to oil won't have a drop of PAO in it. MANY more oils will going the RLI pathway to meet ever-increasing specs. PAO is old school and not cost-efficient. The technology is here to get better-than PAO performance from other sources.
RLI has PAO.
Please explain the PAO hate. It makes no sense. It's just a base oil. I'm not in love with PAO, but I don't hate it either. Lots of good properties, some weaknesses.
I'm not sure what you mean by PAO hate. The term I used was PAO only snobs. They are easy to spot. Their only criteria for a good oil is that it be PAO based. That's the first question that they always ask. If an oil is a blend of varying base oils they automatically assume it won't perform as well as a PAO based oil and the company marketing it is trying to screw them.
IMO, it matters MORE whether a vehicle has fuel injection or a carburetor, in terms of how long OCIs can be... fuel contamination in the oil is the issue.
Neither synthetic and conventional can stand up to fuel dilution.
Neither synthetic and conventional can stand up to fuel dilution.
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