Ideally, When's Best to do Annual OCI?
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I usually change oil in June and December on the 6 month OCI cycle. If I were changing oil once a year I'd probably do it just before the bad weather sets in, which would be early December. We still have weather then that is tolerable to work outside. But I have a garage that is attached to the house with portable heat so I'm spoiled.
I'd want the oil its best for the winter abuse if I were doing an annual OCI.
I'd want the oil its best for the winter abuse if I were doing an annual OCI.
Up North, I would do bi-annual/winter spring. I feel any other way you are asking for increased wear and oil failure in a cold climate area. Down So. you are prob good to go with a change at the beginning of December. I see you are in Tn so you are cleared for take off.
Very interesting question. I suppose if you have determined that the oil is up to the task of a 1 year OCI, it wouldn't matter. The real question is, which "severe" season (summer or winter) is it most important to have the freshest oil. Your seasonal driving habits might matter.
Another way to ask is, which season (quarter) do you want to have the oil in during it's weakest, end of it's run?
1.Dec,Jan,Feb. COLD
2.March,April, May, mild
3.June, July, Aug. HOT
4.Sept., Oct,Nov. mild
For some reason I favor the early Dec. OCI. The oil should still be good during the hot 3rd. qtr. and the "spent" oil will survive better in the "4th." quarter than it would in the post winter "2nd" quarter. Yes...no???
Is there some other logic that says it would be better to have the fresh put in early June?
Another way to ask is, which season (quarter) do you want to have the oil in during it's weakest, end of it's run?
1.Dec,Jan,Feb. COLD
2.March,April, May, mild
3.June, July, Aug. HOT
4.Sept., Oct,Nov. mild
For some reason I favor the early Dec. OCI. The oil should still be good during the hot 3rd. qtr. and the "spent" oil will survive better in the "4th." quarter than it would in the post winter "2nd" quarter. Yes...no???
Is there some other logic that says it would be better to have the fresh put in early June?
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Originally Posted By: defektes
If I did annual OCI I would like to do it in spring time right after the oil has taken its winter beating.
I'm doing it this way, sort of agreeing with your reasons here. However, if you let the engine warm up fully and don't have problems with fuel dilution, it probably doesn't matter all that much.
FYI, here's my annual UOA, from April to April:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/02-bmw-530i-gc-0w-30-5700-miles.105869/
If I did annual OCI I would like to do it in spring time right after the oil has taken its winter beating.
I'm doing it this way, sort of agreeing with your reasons here. However, if you let the engine warm up fully and don't have problems with fuel dilution, it probably doesn't matter all that much.
FYI, here's my annual UOA, from April to April:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/02-bmw-530i-gc-0w-30-5700-miles.105869/
I usually do mine around Labor Day. Easy to remember and usually good weather
I do my annual changes in late fall.... around Thanksgiving.
That way, I also give the vehicle a good inspection before going into winter.... air filter, grease front end, check coolant and all fluids, check and rotate tires, check belt....
That way, I also give the vehicle a good inspection before going into winter.... air filter, grease front end, check coolant and all fluids, check and rotate tires, check belt....
Spring.
Then, at least you have several perfect months with the oil in the best condition.
Then, at least you have several perfect months with the oil in the best condition.
Fall... Need oil at its best for winter...
Now is good! Pour point depressants wear out but in TN with PP that's a non issue for you.
I like to change my air filter in spring for spunky summer driving, just after all the pollen falls. Winter means salt and sand dust and not getting into the throttle much.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Need oil at its best for winter...
Can you elaborate?
Need oil at its best for winter...
Can you elaborate?
Winter is harsh on oil... Need to flow and lubricate well and needs to have a strong TBN to put up with all the moisture and oxidation that will happen as it puts up with harsh winter conditions and frigid temperatures.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Winter is harsh on oil... Need to flow and lubricate well
Oil needs to flow and lubricate well at all times, not just during winter. And I'm not totally convinced that slightly used oil does that any worse than fresh one.
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and needs to have a strong TBN to put up with all the moisture and oxidation that will happen as it puts up with harsh winter conditions and frigid temperatures.
Why would moisture and oxidation occur more during frigid temperatures? If anything, winter air is less humid than summer air.
Winter is harsh on oil... Need to flow and lubricate well
Oil needs to flow and lubricate well at all times, not just during winter. And I'm not totally convinced that slightly used oil does that any worse than fresh one.
Quote:
and needs to have a strong TBN to put up with all the moisture and oxidation that will happen as it puts up with harsh winter conditions and frigid temperatures.
Why would moisture and oxidation occur more during frigid temperatures? If anything, winter air is less humid than summer air.
It needs the best flow possible, even slightly degraded isn't fine for me considering it can drastically change in the cold versus slightly change in the summer.
As for the moisture and oxidation is, 1 because of short trips where an engine might otherwise reach operating temperature in the summer but doesn't in the winter, 2 because of more combustion by-product due to richer running engines in the cold temperatures. This creates oxidation and/or fuel dilution. and 3 the engine cool off a lot quicker when parked for a short period of time in between trips whereas the summer it doesn't. This takes the engine longer to regain operating temperature, running richer for longer adding to more moisture and/or fuel dilution.
I have used oil analysis from winter and summer and the winter the TBN drops a lot quicker and the TAN goes up quicker than in the summer using the same oil, same driving patterns, same OCI. Only difference is the weather.
Oil likes a fair amount of heat for the additives to work properly, for proper flow and so it can release moisture and/or fuel that may have built up in the oil. Extreme heat like racing or performance engines is too much heat. Summer conditions with a regular engine is far better than winter.
Don't take my word for it, run your own used oil analysis.
As for the moisture and oxidation is, 1 because of short trips where an engine might otherwise reach operating temperature in the summer but doesn't in the winter, 2 because of more combustion by-product due to richer running engines in the cold temperatures. This creates oxidation and/or fuel dilution. and 3 the engine cool off a lot quicker when parked for a short period of time in between trips whereas the summer it doesn't. This takes the engine longer to regain operating temperature, running richer for longer adding to more moisture and/or fuel dilution.
I have used oil analysis from winter and summer and the winter the TBN drops a lot quicker and the TAN goes up quicker than in the summer using the same oil, same driving patterns, same OCI. Only difference is the weather.
Oil likes a fair amount of heat for the additives to work properly, for proper flow and so it can release moisture and/or fuel that may have built up in the oil. Extreme heat like racing or performance engines is too much heat. Summer conditions with a regular engine is far better than winter.
Don't take my word for it, run your own used oil analysis.
Thanks. You make some good points there, although I'm still not convinced that an oil that was put in use during Spring will not be good enough to do the job during Winter. You saw the UOA I linked to above... TBN was still twice as high is TAN, which means this oil still had quite a bit of life left in it after a year. Didn't seem like any harm was done.
The point is not to really compare used oil analysis winter vs summer, but to compare 1-year used oil analysis with different starting date, say May vs. November. I suspect at the end of the interval, the results would be similar, if not the same.
The point is not to really compare used oil analysis winter vs summer, but to compare 1-year used oil analysis with different starting date, say May vs. November. I suspect at the end of the interval, the results would be similar, if not the same.
Well that depends on the vintage of the oil....If it was bottled onthe North Side of New Jersey then late spring but if it was bottled in California then early Fall but if it is a European Vintage I find that the oil is at it's peak come Summer!LOL Really it does nto matter think about it for a minute? The oil is going to be in the car for 12 months not 11 not 10 so it really does not matter because the oil is going to see all 12 months and when you put the oil in is not going to make much difference. I mean if you where really a nut put the oil in right before the coldest part of the year this way the oil has the best possable cold cranking and flow properties but again it shouldnot matter!
It doesn't really and with just a reasonable OCI schedule the engine will outlast the rest of the car. Maybe 10-15 years ago it could make a difference, IMO no longer any difference in todays world
Thanks for replying.
I changed my oil about a year ago and went from GTX 10-30 to Q brand 10-30, then someone [or this site] told me to get rid of the Q brand so I went to Syntec 10-30 last February.
In Sept '09 I took off the K&N oil filter and put in a PureONE oil filter.
Soon I'm going to do OCI with Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 and a Bosch Premium oil filter. I think the 5-30 might stop the brief startup noises I used to get and will be a good oil for my car.
I changed my oil about a year ago and went from GTX 10-30 to Q brand 10-30, then someone [or this site] told me to get rid of the Q brand so I went to Syntec 10-30 last February.
In Sept '09 I took off the K&N oil filter and put in a PureONE oil filter.
Soon I'm going to do OCI with Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 and a Bosch Premium oil filter. I think the 5-30 might stop the brief startup noises I used to get and will be a good oil for my car.
With all this spring/winter debate - its clear you should be changing oil fill 2x/ year. Remember, you dont get those .0005" dia. wear particulate out unless you change the oil for the price of a fill-up of gas. Let's not be penny wise and pound foolish.
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