Ran 10w40 in my 05 Expedition 5.4l with zero problems. Many mod motors got 15w40 for millions of miles. You will be fine running thicker.
I want to run a thicker oil but…
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This is the opposite of what you should do. You can go thinner than the first number (winter grade) and thicker on the high number (operating temp grade). You should not go thicker on the low number and thinner on the high number.
Well if oil is missing, it left the engine. And it either left the engine by leaking or by being exhausted out the pipe.
Just because you can't see visible smoke doesn't mean it's not burning oil.
Diesel engines burn oil by design and often have no visible smoke, even older ones with no aftertreatment.
I used to have a large, offset bbq rig using post oak with a bit of pecan. Smoke coming out the stacks was never a good thing, as that lead to a more bitter flavor. Your not seeing smoke is probably a good thing, as that means any getting past the rings is being completely consumed.
Know that if you switch to VRP or other oil known for its cleaning capabilities, consumption may get worse before it gets better. If you don't want to risk that happening, move up a grade (or two) in the oil you're currently using.
While in high school in the 70s, I worked at a service station. We had one guy that would drive straight into the service bay in his really old pickup so we could pump a couple of quarts of gear lube into his engine. I worked there four years and he'd do this several times a year.
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5w-30 VRP, but I'm believer...
If you rarely start it below freezing, and never below 0F, I would probably just put in whatever you use in your tractor.
Rotella T4 15W40 does everything at my place, except the road cars, but I do use it to top up the Focus as it seems to burn a quart every 3k miles now.
Rotella T4 15W40 does everything at my place, except the road cars, but I do use it to top up the Focus as it seems to burn a quart every 3k miles now.
If you plan on keeping it for a while, then I would grab some VRP 5w-30 from WM or wherever and keep using it until the consumption significantly reduces or stops.
If you’re just going to run it into the ground and don’t really care, then I would dump anything you can find in it. Maybe even old used oil from another vehicles since it’s going to just burn through it anyways.
If you’re just going to run it into the ground and don’t really care, then I would dump anything you can find in it. Maybe even old used oil from another vehicles since it’s going to just burn through it anyways.
Watch the video below. He explains the Stribeck curve. You can definitely go one lower on the first number and one higher on the second.
I’ve got a Raptor with a 3.5L twin turbo v6. Ford recommends 5w30. I switched to 0w40 assuming oil will get to the turbos a bit faster and the 40w will offer a tad more protection in a high performance engine. Several folks said my mpg would bottom out and it would rattle on startup.
My mpg is exactly the same, the engine is quiet as a church mouse, and the oil pressure appears to be a small tad higher. Temps are the same.
My wife’s Blazer calls for 0w20….that’ll be fine until the warranty is over, then a thicker oil will prevail. I don’t care about cafe ratings.
My mpg is exactly the same, the engine is quiet as a church mouse, and the oil pressure appears to be a small tad higher. Temps are the same.
My wife’s Blazer calls for 0w20….that’ll be fine until the warranty is over, then a thicker oil will prevail. I don’t care about cafe ratings.
My Armada "recommends" 0w-20 and has 0w-40 in it
I got 10w30 in my 22 GMC canyon, my 05 Pontiac vibe, my daughter’s RX350, and no issues. 10w30 FTW!
Learning to read the viscosity info for an oil clarified this simple but slightly elusive concept for me. The viscosity of the 0w-40 M1 FS I just put in is quite a bit thicker than the 5w-30 M1 that it replaced, at all temperatures.
I guess most people with no knowledge of this topic might reasonably expect a "0W" to simply be thinner than a "5W', without any further context required.
Except at the testing temperature for a 0W rated oil.
Run VRP 5W-30 and see if you can improve the consumption. Cylinders could be scored though already, but can't hurt to run it and see. Make sure you top off with it too... Thought that would be obvious, but people here have run it on a recommendation here and then topped off with other stuff and wondered why they didn't see results...
You might want to give Valvoline VRP a shot if it's worth it to you.
I have no idea how much you have in this truck, so it may not be.
If your intent is merely to run it until it runs no longer, then a thicker oil will do no harm and might help in reducing consumption.
Someone above suggested M1 15W-50, but that might be a little to pricey for you in this application.
Any 15W-40 fleet oil would be worth a try and they are widely available for cheap. In your climate, this grade will be fine.
Good luck with this old dear and let us know what you do and what results you see.
Incidentally, it is common for catalyst equipped vehicles to consume oil with no visible blue exhaust smoke.
Were this not the case, you'd see the classic blue cloud following many of those on the road.
I have no idea how much you have in this truck, so it may not be.
If your intent is merely to run it until it runs no longer, then a thicker oil will do no harm and might help in reducing consumption.
Someone above suggested M1 15W-50, but that might be a little to pricey for you in this application.
Any 15W-40 fleet oil would be worth a try and they are widely available for cheap. In your climate, this grade will be fine.
Good luck with this old dear and let us know what you do and what results you see.
Incidentally, it is common for catalyst equipped vehicles to consume oil with no visible blue exhaust smoke.
Were this not the case, you'd see the classic blue cloud following many of those on the road.
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