I surrender MMO guys, Ford 4.2

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One of my Fords has the "special" 4.2 V6. I have fought the dreaded 171-174 lean banks. I have done manifold gaskets, and all hoses. I do not think it is a leak. It revolves around idling in cold weather, and I have had success with replacing or cleaning IAC, PCV,MAF, But it is back.

The 4.2(and 3.8) besides leaks, is noted for dirty intake from PCV and EGR. Some fault bad valve cover design?? The individual EGR ports plug from carbon and oil and force more exhaust gas into the remaining cylinders, creating a lean reading.

I just cleaned the intake again after running it 10 months since all the above work. I can't believe it is that dirty/oily again This was on dino 3k OCI with the last 20K on Synthetic 5k OCI. It is at 106 K.

The heated PCV valve was goopy (was changed at 70 K).I have cleaned every thing up, and hope the MMO will lead to cleaner PCV operations and ventilation into the intake.I will run it in the fuel during cold weather.

I have nothing to lose. I don't care if it implodes. I am tired of fighting it. I found my experimental vehicle when the light came back on yesterday(watch what you wish for)! My question would be: I am only 1K into a 5K OCI. I put a pint into 6 quarts 5w30 Super Tech Syn with no pressure loss noted. I plan to change the filter at 2 K. I see many of you do not run MMO a full OCI, do you see any problems with me going the remaining 4K?

Thanks, We will see what happens. While skeptical I promise to report back either way.
 
In a problem application with a 6 qt sump a pint might be a little to small a dose. My suggestion would be this: Do as you plan for now, when you change the filter, add another pint of MMO and run it the balance of the OCI. So many times products are used in different ways than intended with success, and w/o success. Running a qt in your application for a full OCI would be the best thing to do. I would consider that for the next OCI, or if you are uncomfortable then halfway through the next OCI drain a qt of oil and replace it with a qt of MMO.

In problem applications like the one you mention a Fumoto valve might be a big help for draining some oil off during an OCI, to replace with MMO or the like. Especially if you don't want to run MMO for the entire OCI. JM........HTH

Once that engine is clean you can add a pint of MMO for the last 1000 miles of your OCI and keep that engine clean.

Do a search on a "catch can", or "PCV catch can" that might also help in your situation!
 
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
In a problem application with a 6 qt sump a pint might be a little to small a dose. My suggestion would be this: Do as you plan for now, when you change the filter, add another pint of MMO and run it the balance of the OCI. So many times products are used in different ways than intended with success, and w/o success. Running a qt in your application for a full OCI would be the best thing to do. I would consider that for the next OCI, or if you are uncomfortable then halfway through the next OCI drain a qt of oil and replace it with a qt of MMO.

In problem applications like the one you mention a Fumoto valve might be a big help for draining some oil off during an OCI, to replace with MMO or the like. Especially if you don't want to run MMO for the entire OCI. JM........HTH

Once that engine is clean you can add a pint of MMO for the last 1000 miles of your OCI and keep that engine clean.

Do a search on a "catch can", or "PCV catch can" that might also help in your situation!


+1 - yeah, what he said.
Sure won't hurt anything with another quart of MMO - maybe a couple of full OCI's at 1-quart. Sure won't hurt anything and since MMO is a mild cleaner - it might just make the difference you're looking for.

Either way, it's inexpensive and can only help in this case.
 
Thanks DP. I am not adverse to a full OCI, as I planned to do it. In reading other threads it appears very few if any use it as directed for a full OCI = me asking if it is OK.

I appreciate the advice I will add a pint more and change the filter mid way. It is easier than pulling that darn intake manifold.
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Snake oil & solvent won't fix your problem. Try a better oil instead of the cheapo Supertech. How about ditch the MMO and run some PP or Redline in that engine and see what happens. Use Redline SI-1 or Techron in the fuel as well. Using MMO all you are doing is adding solvent to already poor motor oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Cmarti
Thanks DP. I am not adverse to a full OCI, as I planned to do it. In reading other threads it appears very few if any use it as directed for a full OCI = me asking if it is OK.

I appreciate the advice I will add a pint more and change the filter mid way. It is easier than pulling that darn intake manifold.
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Different schools of thinking here, and its all good. I'm sharing what has worked for me. Sometimes you have to tear into an engine to fix it, but other times these tricks work, and have saved people a lot of time and money. It is a $4 investment, and is not going to harm anything. Good luck.

I'll check back in a few days, I'm otta here in about an hour.
 
I did run Pennzoil Platinum 5w20, for 3 5k OCI, I switched to Super Tech Syn
the last 2 as Walmart can't keep the PP in stock. I run PP in all other Ford applications and Valvoline HM and Mobil 1 High Mileage in some older kids cars.

It may be the 70 K on motorcraft, but this is a recuring problem that predates the Supertech. Supertech syn may be a bad oil
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, but the PP did not clean it up as hoped. It is a $4 experiment with a mild solvent. A better 6 cylinder is the real answer.
 
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I started using MMO in my gas about 6 weeks ago. It made some very noticeable improvements in the way my engine ran. I think it increased the compression by cleaning the rings, because with MMO in the gas it had more power and ran a lot stronger. I was very skeptical in the beginning but am a firm MMO believer now.

I got such good results from MMO in the gas that I decided to try it in the oil. I was about 1200 miles shy of my next oil change. I had read a ton of positive comments and stories from people who used it in their oil with good results. I got good results from it too-a much quieter and smoother running engine, it cleared up a vibration I had on a hot idle, cold starts were much better, my truck ran better after a cold start and the acceleration and power improved a lot too. With MMO in the gas and oil it's like driving a brand new truck.

However, I was still hesitant to use it in the oil for a full OCI. I only have a 4 quart sump anyway and did not want to cause any engine problems from not using enough motor oil. I posted in the MMO forum about it and read here and a lot of other sites about running MMO for a full OCI and read some very good used oil analysis threads about MMO in the oil for the duration of the OCI. I have decided to use 3.5 quarts of oil and 18 ounces of MMO in this next oil change coming up this weekend. I already have it measured out and in the bottle on my garage shelf. The extra 2 oz in the sump won't hurt anything and may help a lifter noise I have in the engine. I know MMO in the oil helps my truck run better.

I would say without a doubt run it in the oil for the length of the OCI. I agree with Damarpaint that you should use more than a pint in a 6 quart sump though. MMO says use anywhere from 10 to 25% of your oil capacity, so maybe try 28 ounces, which would be 15%.

There are hundreds of MMO success stories out there, and all of us can't be wrong. If MMO works for you, great. If not, well it won't hurt anything and it didn't cost you much to find out. HTH.
 
+1 on a catch bottle, small POU compressed air oil separator may do the trick, only potential downside is you may loose some valve stem bottom oiling - and not sure if that is important.
 
I have had several 4.2's. If it is running ok even with the SES light on I would just run it. All of my used oil analysis have been perfect. I use a little MMO on every oil change any way so that won't hurt.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
An oil trap in the PCV line will do more good than all the additives in the world.



Tell me more, I am hunting it with this awesome search function.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
An oil trap in the PCV line will do more good than all the additives in the world.



How does an oil trap work, and is one hard to install? Can I go buy one, or must I build it up myself?
 
Back in the days of living in the land of "The Frozen Chosen" (Wisconsin)before moving south I always ran a quart of MMO when I did oil and filter changes.

I used it in the fuel too year around. Used l quart of MMO and 4 quarts of motor oil. In a 5 quart sump.

Much better cold weather starts and worked for me.

Here in the southeast we use 5W20 oil year around and a UCL at each fuel fill.
 
Originally Posted By: Ursae_Majoris
Originally Posted By: Hethaerto
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
An oil trap in the PCV line will do more good than all the additives in the world.



How does an oil trap work, and is one hard to install? Can I go buy one, or must I build it up myself?

Here is some reading on it:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1400513/
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...rue#Post1706129
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1400513/

Good luck!


Thanks gentlemen.
 
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