I need help firing my 302 for the 1st time.

[Not the Autorx Frank]

Ok so I'm really close to being able to start up my 65 mustang for the 1st time. It has been undergoing restoration the last 2 years. I have a mildly built 302 w/ alum heads, demon carb,

questions:

1. Do I run water only or use antifreeze?

2. Does anyone know how to get the distributor set? (firing order etc).

3. Do I need to break in the cam. (comp roller cam)

4. Anything I should be careful about. (my life savings is in this car)

5. Do I need to get fuel up to the carb or will the pump pull prime on its own?

6. Is it normal to be really really really nervous?

 

[andrews]

You've gotten this far, with such a beautiful car, and don't know what the procedure is for first start-up? I would tell you if I knew. I would think that the internet would have volumes of info on this. Back isuues of any of the hot-rod type magazines would have it. A larger library should have them. Also, aren't you a member of a car club? With a vehicle as nice as that beauty, you should be.
I don't blame you for being anxious though.

 

[MAJA]

Heres my opinions on your questions:
1. Run antifreeze, or whatever you will be using when you drive it.
2. The firing order and distributor must be set. I dont know the firing order on this 302, but it could be on the stock intake, if you have it. The #1 cylinder must be at top dead center on the compression stroke. But right before the distributor is dropped in before firing, prime the oil system with a drill and a special tool engaging the oilpump drive under the distributor to oil the system. Then drop in the distributor, with #1 cylinder still at top dead center, and line up #1 plug wire with the rotor in the distributor cap, with all other wires in their correct places. Dont tighten the dist hold down, allowing you to rotate it to get it to run.
3. Did the cam instructions have any instructions on breaking in the cam? Usually, they want the engine run at something like 2000 rpm for a certain amount of time.
4. I would get fuel up to the carb before trying to start. And even then, I would squirt a little gas into the carb when first cranking. Do not use ether, and it would be a good idea to have a small fire exstinguisher(sp) close at hand, as the engine may backfire before the timing is set correctly.
5. Yes its normal to be nervous, if its your first rebuild. But as soon as it runs on its own and is timed correctly, it will give you the greatest feeling of accomplishment. You will be on cloud 9. Hope this helps, good luck.

 

[TooManyWheels]

To elaborate on the previous post, the compression stroke is the one where the intake valve has closed and the exhaust is yet to open. I did a little Googling on your firing order and saw that it varies depending on your components. Check out this link on 302 firing order. You will still need to know how the cylinder are numbered according to position, and what direction the distributor rotates, but this will get you part way there.

Getting gas to the carb before trying to fire would be more of a priority with a non-roller cam, so that you get it to break in speed ASAP, but it is still a good idea. I like to drip it into the bowl vents, plus a small shot down the throat.

But most importantly, make sure the distributor has engaged the oil pump drive. I don't believe it will seat if it is not engaged, but if it is not seated, see why.

[ February 03, 2005, 10:36 AM: Message edited by: TooManyWheels ]

 

[Pablo]

I also cannot give you Ford specific advice.

I am, too, amazed that you got this far and you don't have a book with wiring/firing order. $20-$40 (or less) should give you some great reading material and as we know the web is mostly free. Did you do the engine work yourself?

Straight water is OK for a short run and dump. Certainly don't leave straight water in for any amount of time over a day or so. I personally would start with 50/50 antifreeze, even as a flush.

Use a dino 5W-30 for a short flush break-in.


Anyhow NICE CAR.....you are living my retirement/no kids in house dream!!!

 

[Not the Autorx Frank]

I guess I sounded a little scary. I have shop manuals etc....I did not build the motor so I don't have the instructions from any parts etc...(cam)

I was just looking for guidance or any thoughts and experiences regarding the items I asked about. I will of course look up firing order and make sure dist is set up properly.

This board is full of knowlegeable people so I thought I would just fling a few questions out and also share!

BTW.
Pablo, my kids are still in the house they just have no shoes.

 

[medic]

Contact the engine builder. Ask him for recommendations. Post them here and we'll let you know if they sound do-able.

I know quite a bit about air cooled engines when it comes to this, but I don't think they carry over to water cooled engines.

 

[MAJA]

You could get the break-in procedure for the roller cam from Comp Cams, if the builder does not have it. Do you have an oil pump priming tool? On an older small block chevy, that pump has a slot, for which I made my own tool to put in my drill. This Ford may have a hexagonal hole. But anyway, prime the oil system before cranking for the first time. Again, watch for a backfire out of the carb until the timing is right. And, if you are inside a shop or garage, make sure it is well vented after firing up. Other than that, if the engine builder is reputable, I can think of no other precautions. You will get many answers as to when to change the oil the first time, and what oil to use. Just do what is sensibile to you. Good luck.

 

[TheLoneRanger]

Frank, that's a beauty! I enjoy seeing a vehicle in that stage of assembly more than I do finished. It shows the attention to (hidden) details.

Here's some thoughts from another Ford afficianado that you may or may not know:

The cam, being a roller, won't need the break-in time that a flat tappet one does. Priming it is a good idea though, to get the oil circulated.

When setting the distributor, the correct position for the vacuum advance cannister is nearly straight ahead, pointed toward the radiator. There are two different firing orders for the 302, and they depend on the cam used. If you aren't sure, you'll have to watch the rockers and see which cylinder has compression on the second firing event. (It'll be either #3 or #5, after #1)

The "old" firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
I suspect you'll have the "newer" order
1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.

Keep us informed of your progress.

 

[TooManyWheels]

quote:

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Do I need to break in the cam. (comp roller cam)

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On this question, do whatever your cam instructions say, paying close attention to the oil recommendation (may not agree with Pablo). As mentioned earlier, this is probably not as critical with a roller cam, but cam break in can be tricky (especially with high spring pressures)so be careful.

 

[Pablo]

TMW - I agree. Follow the Cam mfr's recommendation.

 

[TheLoneRanger]

Frank, one thing I forgot to mention; when installing the distributor, turn the rotor so that it points to the 1 o'clock position (looking from in front of the radiator).

First align the TDC mark on the crank, on the compression stroke. Then install the distributor with the vacuum cannister port facing directly forward, and the rotor at 1 o'clock. (You may have to turn the oil pump drive shaft to get it to align. Be very careful to not drop it into the pan...

If you do, you're screwed big time.

)

Although the engine will run fine with the distributor being "off a tooth", this is the correct stock Ford positioning. You can then install the wires according to the firing order, start it, and adjust the timing with a light. This procedure should have the initial timing pretty close....

EDIT: Frank,I see in the picture that the vacuum advance is pointing off to the driver's side. If there's something interfering with it being pointed forward, just leave it where it is. Then you can simply align TDC marks (on compression), and the #1 cylinder will be the one the rotor is pointing to. (The rotor turns CCW, and turning the distributor CW advances the timing.)

[ February 04, 2005, 11:29 AM: Message edited by: TheLoneRanger ]

 

[drive it forever]

Its easy to set the ignition timing at 0 degrees for a quick start , even though you will want to advance the timing while the engine is running so you well have more power. (Make sure your engine is at top dead center per the timing mark on the harmonic balancer).With the cap on the dist, mark on the dist body directly below the #1 wire plug terminal, take the cap off and turn the dist and line up the tip of the rotor button to the mark you made on the dist body. If you want to start the engine up with the timing a few degrees advanced, rotate the dist body 1/4 inch from the mark the opposite way the rotor rotates while the engine is running. If you do this along with having your carb bowls full of fuel, you should have a quick start. To fill up the carb properly (asumming you have a mech fuel pump with a holly carb), take the side float trickle plugs off the carb, pour fuel through them until it trickles out,or you can use the bowel vents on top off the carb for this.

 

[Not the Autorx Frank]

thanks guys.......

The motor was primed when it was built a while back....


Lone..

the dist has been out and back in because of having to install a bronze gear insead of the iron one. should have no probs turning forward...also, is there a way to make sure im on the compression stroke TDC.. when i line this thing up....

thanks a bunch!!!!

 

[TheLoneRanger]

Frank, good thing you noticed the bronze vs iron dist gear thingy....

Simply put your finger over the #1 sparkplug hole and feel for compression while the engine is being turned over by hand. It'll be very apparent, and max pressure will be felt when the crank nears TDC (on compression).

 

[TooManyWheels]

quote:

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also, is there a way to make sure im on the compression stroke TDC.. when i line this thing up....

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quote:

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the compression stroke is the one where the intake valve has closed and the exhaust is yet to open.

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