Looking for a general purpose torque wrench and I'd like to spend under $100 if possible. I'm not a professional mechanic and I won't be using it daily, but it's about the only tool missing from my kit right now. I was looking at the Tektons on Amazon, does anyone have any experience with those? Also, I'm assuming a clicker wrench is the easiest for general use?
I need a torque wrench
- Thread starter littlehulkster
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You'll need more than. One. I have a 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4". I found some good deals on the 1/2 and 3/8 on eBay. Brand new CDI and precision instruments. My 1/4" is a tekton and no complaints. Mine are all clickers. I like the design of the tekton the best actually.
You have any idea what torque range you'll need it in?
Just get a cheap one from HF. No need for anything more as a DIY.
I've only really used my 1/2" as a DIY mechanic but have only ever used it on suspension and wheels. I would get a 1/2" and then pick up a 3/8' if you need it for something.
I've only really used my 1/2" as a DIY mechanic but have only ever used it on suspension and wheels. I would get a 1/2" and then pick up a 3/8' if you need it for something.
Originally Posted by das_peikko
You have any idea what torque range you'll need it in?
Well, I'd have to look up the specs for my car, but setting torque for wheels and brake caliper parts is the use I have in mind at the moment.
You have any idea what torque range you'll need it in?
Well, I'd have to look up the specs for my car, but setting torque for wheels and brake caliper parts is the use I have in mind at the moment.
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Just get a cheap one from HF. No need for anything more as a DIY.
I've only really used my 1/2" as a DIY mechanic but have only ever used it on suspension and wheels. I would get a 1/2" and then pick up a 3/8' if you need it for something.
This
Just get a cheap one from HF. No need for anything more as a DIY.
I've only really used my 1/2" as a DIY mechanic but have only ever used it on suspension and wheels. I would get a 1/2" and then pick up a 3/8' if you need it for something.
This
I have a good Snap On 1/2 torque wrench I inherited from my FIL, Craftsman, and HF torque wrenches. You'll be hard priced to find an inexpensive torque wrench for things like torquing wheels etc, better than the HF torque wrenches for the money. I have them in 1/2, 3/8, and 1/4 inch drive and found them to be quite good.
Originally Posted by littlehulkster
Originally Posted by das_peikko
You have any idea what torque range you'll need it in?
Well, I'd have to look up the specs for my car, but setting torque for wheels and brake caliper parts is the use I have in mind at the moment.
Most brake caliper parts will be hard to torque with the long torque wrenches some will be nearly impossible...which is why i never 'torque' mine. I use loctite and and snug them tight.
Wheels.. I use a harbor freight 1/2 inch and have settled at 90-100lbs for most everything.
Originally Posted by das_peikko
You have any idea what torque range you'll need it in?
Well, I'd have to look up the specs for my car, but setting torque for wheels and brake caliper parts is the use I have in mind at the moment.
Most brake caliper parts will be hard to torque with the long torque wrenches some will be nearly impossible...which is why i never 'torque' mine. I use loctite and and snug them tight.
Wheels.. I use a harbor freight 1/2 inch and have settled at 90-100lbs for most everything.
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Most brake caliper parts will be hard to torque with the long torque wrenches some will be nearly impossible...
^This
A 3/8 will fit under most fenders if you are creative, and cover the necessary torque range for the pins. Front wheels are easiest because you can turn the wheels. Rear wheels sometimes require that you crawl under the car or somehow reach way under, just to get enough clearance. Caliper brackets usually have higher torque and require a 1/2 wrench, and this can be more tricky.
Overall, you will need the 1/2 for your lug nuts, so this is a necessity. A 3/8 is the most useful size for brakes, engines...most if the car. The 1/4 is useful occasionally but I rarely use it. HF cheapies work fine, as long as you can read the markings. Other brands aren't that much more, so it is probably worth the extra cost to have easier-to-read numbers.
Most brake caliper parts will be hard to torque with the long torque wrenches some will be nearly impossible...
^This
A 3/8 will fit under most fenders if you are creative, and cover the necessary torque range for the pins. Front wheels are easiest because you can turn the wheels. Rear wheels sometimes require that you crawl under the car or somehow reach way under, just to get enough clearance. Caliper brackets usually have higher torque and require a 1/2 wrench, and this can be more tricky.
Overall, you will need the 1/2 for your lug nuts, so this is a necessity. A 3/8 is the most useful size for brakes, engines...most if the car. The 1/4 is useful occasionally but I rarely use it. HF cheapies work fine, as long as you can read the markings. Other brands aren't that much more, so it is probably worth the extra cost to have easier-to-read numbers.
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Originally Posted by joegreen
Check out the digital torque adapters.
Agreed...you can use any ratchet in your box. The Harbor Freight is in my box. Uses AAA batteries so upkeep is minimal.
Check out the digital torque adapters.
Agreed...you can use any ratchet in your box. The Harbor Freight is in my box. Uses AAA batteries so upkeep is minimal.
Originally Posted by joegreen
Check out the digital torque adapters.
I had one of those HF ones and loved it, at least while it was working. One of these days I'll buy another.
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Most brake caliper parts will be hard to torque with the long torque wrenches some will be nearly impossible...which is why i never 'torque' mine. I use loctite and and snug them tight.
I usually just give a good rap on the end of a wrench with a dead blow hammer. Not "beat it to death" but just more than an unga-dunga or three. As long as it takes nearly the same force to remove later on, I figure it's good enough--those bolts look sized to take some serious torque, more than I could ever apply by hand.
Check out the digital torque adapters.
I had one of those HF ones and loved it, at least while it was working. One of these days I'll buy another.
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Most brake caliper parts will be hard to torque with the long torque wrenches some will be nearly impossible...which is why i never 'torque' mine. I use loctite and and snug them tight.
I usually just give a good rap on the end of a wrench with a dead blow hammer. Not "beat it to death" but just more than an unga-dunga or three. As long as it takes nearly the same force to remove later on, I figure it's good enough--those bolts look sized to take some serious torque, more than I could ever apply by hand.
Yeah if you get the HF coupons and stuff, they will generally sell all 3 torque wrench sizes for $9.99 each. Hot Rod magazine I think did a test a couple years back, and they are definitely good enough for any work you're doing in your driveway. I have the 1/2" and 3/8", and while maybe not as fancy as much pricier options, accuracy +/- 4% is plenty. If you're concerned about the torque, I would add 2% to your target value and roll with it. 2 ft-lbs on something requiring 100ft-lbs is not going to result in failure, even if your TW is on the -4% side. However, for breaking things loose, just get the 25" breaker bar from HF as well. It's like $13.99.
I didn't realize there's a HF near me now, I'll check it out.
I suggest you take a look a etork.com. They sell on Amazon, but their website shows their offerings with detailed specs and features. The "About Us" page tells a bit about the developer (apparently a long time pro in the industry). They are designed and serviced in the US, manufactured in China. Their various torque wrenches sell for ~$50 - $60. I needed a high range (50 - 250 ft.lb.) last year, and was disappointed in the stuff offered at the lower price range, but didn't want to spend more that $100 for a torque wrench that I wouldn't use very often (mainly FWD CV axle/wheel bearing nuts). There were a few others in this torque and approximate price range, but they had some characteristics that looked too much like some of the cheaper torque wrenches that I've owned that never seemed to work well or last very long. The Tekton fits in that category, and there were numerous reviews on Amazon describing the same problems I've encountered. Other than Tekton, most of the offerings don't seem to come from any sort of established company - just Chinese imports sold by some small unidentifiable named marketing outfit.
When I came across the etork offering on Amazon, it looked promising. I've had too many of those lower-tier torque wrenches that have that enormous ratchet head that gets in the way and pretty soon starts jumping teeth or simply falls apart. And the scale that's hard to read, with the locking knob that tightens itself while you're adjusting the wrench, then loosens when you're actually using the wrench. I liked what I read on etork's website and figured I would give it a try. The ad stated it had a lifetime warranty (non-commercial use), so I figured it worth the gamble even though I'm usually skeptical that the warranties are useful when something actually breaks . When I received it, I was very impressed with the overall quality, and the way it worked. The the design of the hand position is comfortable and easy to use precisely (torque accuracy requires the force you apply to be at the right distance). The way you dial in the torque setting is different than most of the others in this price range, much easier to see and use, especially when under the car with only indirect light. It has a nice definitive 'click' when it hits the right torque - the most confidence-inspiring of all of the torque wrenches I've used. Accuracy is advertised as +/- 3%, but the calibration certificate that came with mine showed less than half that. The blow-molded plastic case is better than those that came with my other tools from Tekton and other mid-range tools. I have several Tekton specialty tools, and am generally satisfied with them and their value, but I don't like their their flimsy cases that don't latch well or break off or tear a hinge. The e-tork case is probably not quite as robust as those that came with my 40-year old craftsman socket sets, which despite a lot of use, still work perfectly.
Potential criticisms:
1) Some might complain that the length is a bit short (20.5"), requiring a lot of force at 250 ft.lb. I had to work at it at 230 ft.lbs. setting, but was able to use it successfully and accurately (I weigh 200 lbs, in reasonable shape but no athlete). On the other hand, I perceive that as a 'feature' rather than a 'bug'. I only occasionally need to use it near the top end of its range. When I was using in under the car on my back for some subframe work, sometimes a longer torque wrench would have been too long. E-tork's 1/2" drive 30-150 ft.lb. version specs show 18" length so I'm sure this won't be an issue with that version. I'm sure I'll own that one at some point to replace my broken wrenches in that range, but for now I can cover the entire range I need so don't want to spend the money just now.
2) It doesn't have that shiny chrome finish that the more expensive (and even some inexpensive) wrenches have. It's a matte finish, perfectly nice from my perspective.
3) It has a 45-tooth ratchet head - more than many of the other inexpensive 1/2" torque wrenches I've used (e.g. 24 teeth), but less than some of it's competitors. I find it just right for the high-torque range version, but for the 30-150 lb version there are times when a 72-tooth would be handy in tight locations. Nonetheless, it works well and feels secure, and won't stop me from buying their 30 - 150 ft.lb. version when I finally decide that I need it. The knob for changing directions is easy grab hold of and easy to turn. On my regular ratchets I tend to like the lever style better than the rotary type, but on a torque wrench I don't really care because I'm not reversing directions very often.
4) My wrench had a problem with the locking mechanism that showed up after I used it on maybe 10 or 20 bolts - it adjusted and torqued fine, but the lock button on the bottom no longer engaged. I contacted customer service, since it has a lifetime warranty, and I got a prompt response saying 'send it in' with a copy of the email. We went back and forth a few times to schedule a time to send it back for repair. After contacting them, I I realized I might be needing to use it soon so didn't want to send it back right away. They said 'fine' just let them know when I'm ready to send it back. They emailed me the day they received my wrench to let me know the USPS tracking # for the replacement they shipped. I had to pay for shipping my broken wrench back, they paid shipping for the replacement. At the price point for the original purchase, I'm not complaining.
I asked if the problem was caused by anything that I did, and they said no, a part of the latch assembly just became loose so the lock wouldn't engage. No parts actually broke. They said it's rare for that to happen, likely wasn't tightened quite enough at the factory (yeah, I know, and I asked -= it's ironic that a torque wrench would have a part that doesn't have a torque spec! It's tightened at manufacture with a strap wrench.) It's independent of the actual torque-measuring mechanism, so had no effect on the calibration. I also asked them some other questions about it out of curiosity, which they freely answered. Most of the time my emails were replied to in just a few hours, and once I sent an email after hours and got a response back late that evening. Their customer service is top notch. If you judge a company by how they respond to problems, as I do, they pass with flying colors.
I realize this might sound like an advertisement - it's not. I just found this to be a great tool at a fair price and want to let others know about it. I have absolutely no relationship with this company other than as a random customer. I was happy to find a good product at a price that I could afford at the time, and am satisfied beyond my original expectations. I'm willing to excuse the problem I had with mine based on their first-class response to it. I'm so tired of the Chinese junk and knock-offs these days, sold by totally invisible marketing entities, that I'm very reluctant to recommend anything to anybody. But it's clear to me that this company isn't just an opportunistic marketer - they are invested in this product. Based on my correspondence with them, it appears they are in good control of the manufacturing process, rather than just bulk buying whatever they can find and reselling it on-line. There is in fact good stuff that comes out of China when the design is robust, manufacturing processes are focused on making a good product, and QA standards are actively managed. And you can't beat a lifetime warranty that's honored without hassle.
When I came across the etork offering on Amazon, it looked promising. I've had too many of those lower-tier torque wrenches that have that enormous ratchet head that gets in the way and pretty soon starts jumping teeth or simply falls apart. And the scale that's hard to read, with the locking knob that tightens itself while you're adjusting the wrench, then loosens when you're actually using the wrench. I liked what I read on etork's website and figured I would give it a try. The ad stated it had a lifetime warranty (non-commercial use), so I figured it worth the gamble even though I'm usually skeptical that the warranties are useful when something actually breaks . When I received it, I was very impressed with the overall quality, and the way it worked. The the design of the hand position is comfortable and easy to use precisely (torque accuracy requires the force you apply to be at the right distance). The way you dial in the torque setting is different than most of the others in this price range, much easier to see and use, especially when under the car with only indirect light. It has a nice definitive 'click' when it hits the right torque - the most confidence-inspiring of all of the torque wrenches I've used. Accuracy is advertised as +/- 3%, but the calibration certificate that came with mine showed less than half that. The blow-molded plastic case is better than those that came with my other tools from Tekton and other mid-range tools. I have several Tekton specialty tools, and am generally satisfied with them and their value, but I don't like their their flimsy cases that don't latch well or break off or tear a hinge. The e-tork case is probably not quite as robust as those that came with my 40-year old craftsman socket sets, which despite a lot of use, still work perfectly.
Potential criticisms:
1) Some might complain that the length is a bit short (20.5"), requiring a lot of force at 250 ft.lb. I had to work at it at 230 ft.lbs. setting, but was able to use it successfully and accurately (I weigh 200 lbs, in reasonable shape but no athlete). On the other hand, I perceive that as a 'feature' rather than a 'bug'. I only occasionally need to use it near the top end of its range. When I was using in under the car on my back for some subframe work, sometimes a longer torque wrench would have been too long. E-tork's 1/2" drive 30-150 ft.lb. version specs show 18" length so I'm sure this won't be an issue with that version. I'm sure I'll own that one at some point to replace my broken wrenches in that range, but for now I can cover the entire range I need so don't want to spend the money just now.
2) It doesn't have that shiny chrome finish that the more expensive (and even some inexpensive) wrenches have. It's a matte finish, perfectly nice from my perspective.
3) It has a 45-tooth ratchet head - more than many of the other inexpensive 1/2" torque wrenches I've used (e.g. 24 teeth), but less than some of it's competitors. I find it just right for the high-torque range version, but for the 30-150 lb version there are times when a 72-tooth would be handy in tight locations. Nonetheless, it works well and feels secure, and won't stop me from buying their 30 - 150 ft.lb. version when I finally decide that I need it. The knob for changing directions is easy grab hold of and easy to turn. On my regular ratchets I tend to like the lever style better than the rotary type, but on a torque wrench I don't really care because I'm not reversing directions very often.
4) My wrench had a problem with the locking mechanism that showed up after I used it on maybe 10 or 20 bolts - it adjusted and torqued fine, but the lock button on the bottom no longer engaged. I contacted customer service, since it has a lifetime warranty, and I got a prompt response saying 'send it in' with a copy of the email. We went back and forth a few times to schedule a time to send it back for repair. After contacting them, I I realized I might be needing to use it soon so didn't want to send it back right away. They said 'fine' just let them know when I'm ready to send it back. They emailed me the day they received my wrench to let me know the USPS tracking # for the replacement they shipped. I had to pay for shipping my broken wrench back, they paid shipping for the replacement. At the price point for the original purchase, I'm not complaining.
I asked if the problem was caused by anything that I did, and they said no, a part of the latch assembly just became loose so the lock wouldn't engage. No parts actually broke. They said it's rare for that to happen, likely wasn't tightened quite enough at the factory (yeah, I know, and I asked -= it's ironic that a torque wrench would have a part that doesn't have a torque spec! It's tightened at manufacture with a strap wrench.) It's independent of the actual torque-measuring mechanism, so had no effect on the calibration. I also asked them some other questions about it out of curiosity, which they freely answered. Most of the time my emails were replied to in just a few hours, and once I sent an email after hours and got a response back late that evening. Their customer service is top notch. If you judge a company by how they respond to problems, as I do, they pass with flying colors.
I realize this might sound like an advertisement - it's not. I just found this to be a great tool at a fair price and want to let others know about it. I have absolutely no relationship with this company other than as a random customer. I was happy to find a good product at a price that I could afford at the time, and am satisfied beyond my original expectations. I'm willing to excuse the problem I had with mine based on their first-class response to it. I'm so tired of the Chinese junk and knock-offs these days, sold by totally invisible marketing entities, that I'm very reluctant to recommend anything to anybody. But it's clear to me that this company isn't just an opportunistic marketer - they are invested in this product. Based on my correspondence with them, it appears they are in good control of the manufacturing process, rather than just bulk buying whatever they can find and reselling it on-line. There is in fact good stuff that comes out of China when the design is robust, manufacturing processes are focused on making a good product, and QA standards are actively managed. And you can't beat a lifetime warranty that's honored without hassle.
I have the Tekton 1/4' torque wrench; nice craftmanship and works great on valve cover bolts, oil and transmission pans. I have the Craftsman 3/8 and 1/2" digital torque wrenches that really good also. If you keep an eye out on the Sears website, you can find them onsale and some good prices.
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Just get a cheap one from HF. No need for anything more as a DIY.
I've only really used my 1/2" as a DIY mechanic but have only ever used it on suspension and wheels. I would get a 1/2" and then pick up a 3/8' if you need it for something.
Let me tell you somthin' brother, I agree with Maxdusty Rhoads. If you were going to be wrenching for the heavyweight title, you would need big nasty smelly expensive wrenches from Python Home Center or Maniac Auto! As it is the instruments from Harbor Freight will deliver the precise torque you need to keep the Hulk-mobile purrin' like a tiger! Whatcha gonna do when most efficient and economical tools run wild on you?
Just get a cheap one from HF. No need for anything more as a DIY.
I've only really used my 1/2" as a DIY mechanic but have only ever used it on suspension and wheels. I would get a 1/2" and then pick up a 3/8' if you need it for something.
Let me tell you somthin' brother, I agree with Maxdusty Rhoads. If you were going to be wrenching for the heavyweight title, you would need big nasty smelly expensive wrenches from Python Home Center or Maniac Auto! As it is the instruments from Harbor Freight will deliver the precise torque you need to keep the Hulk-mobile purrin' like a tiger! Whatcha gonna do when most efficient and economical tools run wild on you?
Those etorks actually look really nice. Might grab one.
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Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Most brake caliper parts will be hard to torque with the long torque wrenches some will be nearly impossible...which is why i never 'torque' mine. I use loctite and and snug them tight.
Originally Posted by RyanY
A 3/8 will fit under most fenders if you are creative, and cover the necessary torque range for the pins. Front wheels are easiest because you can turn the wheels. Rear wheels sometimes require that you crawl under the car or somehow reach way under, just to get enough clearance. Caliper brackets usually have higher torque and require a 1/2 wrench, and this can be more tricky.
Exactly what I've ran into with my 1/2 torque wrench, which has me thinking of getting a 1/4" or 3/8" as well. Problem with a 1/4" is it looks like many only go up around 200 in/lbs or 17 ft/lbs. That's too low for caliper slide pins, for example, but okay for spark plugs. A 3/8" would definitely be better but they're not much shorter to avoid the clearance issues in some situations. Then again, I was able to use a 19" long 1/2" torque wrench on a Honda V6 when changing spark plugs, so.....
Most brake caliper parts will be hard to torque with the long torque wrenches some will be nearly impossible...which is why i never 'torque' mine. I use loctite and and snug them tight.
Originally Posted by RyanY
A 3/8 will fit under most fenders if you are creative, and cover the necessary torque range for the pins. Front wheels are easiest because you can turn the wheels. Rear wheels sometimes require that you crawl under the car or somehow reach way under, just to get enough clearance. Caliper brackets usually have higher torque and require a 1/2 wrench, and this can be more tricky.
Exactly what I've ran into with my 1/2 torque wrench, which has me thinking of getting a 1/4" or 3/8" as well. Problem with a 1/4" is it looks like many only go up around 200 in/lbs or 17 ft/lbs. That's too low for caliper slide pins, for example, but okay for spark plugs. A 3/8" would definitely be better but they're not much shorter to avoid the clearance issues in some situations. Then again, I was able to use a 19" long 1/2" torque wrench on a Honda V6 when changing spark plugs, so.....
Originally Posted by littlehulkster
Those etorks actually look really nice. Might grab one.
My buddy just bought one in 3/8", he knows quality tools. He said for the money they're tough to beat.
Those etorks actually look really nice. Might grab one.
My buddy just bought one in 3/8", he knows quality tools. He said for the money they're tough to beat.
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