I lost my compression and I want it back!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: Trav
Order a can of this..
https://www.protecautocare.com/motor-vehicle-care/engine-flush?gclid=CM2PwtTaq8ACFWwQ7AodcBIAYA

And get a can of Berrymans Chemtool..
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/berry...-0116/7040112-P

Put the Chemtool in the oil and run it in the oil at idle only for 20 min. Let it sit overnight and run it an additional 20 min.
These two product have proven themselves to be very good at freeing sticking rings.

Remove the plugs.Divide the can of ProTec by the number of cylinders and put that amount in each cylinder.
Put the plugs back in a few threads to prevent evaporation or something falling down the plug hole.

Let the engine sit as long as possible overnight or all weekend, remove the plugs and crank it through with the ignition fuse pulled to blow out any remaining product.
Reinstall the plugs and fire it up, change the oil and filter. Take it for a high RPM run.

If that doesn't get it your probably dealing with worn out rings not stuck or sticking rings and you cant fix broke.

Edit: Stupid question but you did have the throttle fully open for the compression test right?








I agree, but the only thing that I would add to it (IMO), is not just to drive it at high RPM, but to try and put your foot through the floor board. Max RPM, let the transmission shift on it's own through 2nd and 3rd gear. Do it several times. If possible, find a STEEP and long hill and do this. The combination of lots of load, lots of heat and lots of RPM will blow all kinds junk out the tail pipe. In fact, the first time or two you do this, don't be surprised if you look in your rear view mirror and see a black or gray hazy cloud following you!


I agree i just didn't want to propose such a thing like "drive it like you stole it" which is the common cry of supporters of a once popular now $28 a bottle snake oil on this board. LOL
We have all seen results like this on a cold engine or where the guy forgot to open the throttle, i think its important to find this out before putting anything in it.
 
What would the volvo manufacturer say about all this advice? I gonna out and run around the house now....and reverse the rotation of the planet.
 
Originally Posted By: CourierDriver
What would the volvo manufacturer say about all this advice? I gonna out and run around the house now....and reverse the rotation of the planet.


So what would you do? Throw a new set of rings in it without even trying to correct an issue if it exist?
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: CourierDriver
What would the volvo manufacturer say about all this advice? I gonna out and run around the house now....and reverse the rotation of the planet.


So what would you do? Throw a new set of rings in it without even trying to correct an issue if it exist?


Not until I tried a miracle in a bottle first.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Order a can of this..
https://www.protecautocare.com/motor-vehicle-care/engine-flush?gclid=CM2PwtTaq8ACFWwQ7AodcBIAYA

And get a can of Berrymans Chemtool..
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/berry...-0116/7040112-P

Put the Chemtool in the oil and run it in the oil at idle only for 20 min. Let it sit overnight and run it an additional 20 min.
These two product have proven themselves to be very good at freeing sticking rings.

Remove the plugs.Divide the can of ProTec by the number of cylinders and put that amount in each cylinder.
Put the plugs back in a few threads to prevent evaporation or something falling down the plug hole.

Let the engine sit as long as possible overnight or all weekend, remove the plugs and crank it through with the ignition fuse pulled to blow out any remaining product.
Reinstall the plugs and fire it up, change the oil and filter. Take it for a high RPM run.

If that doesn't get it your probably dealing with worn out rings not stuck or sticking rings and you cant fix broke.

Edit: Stupid question but you did have the throttle fully open for the compression test right?


I too would suggest a piston soak as Trav has suggested before tearing into the engine.

A cleaner with lubrication is LC20 (LCDinc) and has been used in the past as an effective decarbonizer for piston crowns and ring land cleaning.

Another cleaner I would suggest for a piston soak is Rislone Engine Treatment.

After placing the cleaner in the cylinder, turn the crankshaft by hand (plugs out) or use short starter bursts (plugs in with ignition connector disconnected) until the cleaner soaks past the rings into the crankcase to avoid a hydrolock.

Change the oil after the soak as all kinds of carbon will be the dumped into the oil, assuming you have sticky sludge and hard carbon in the ring lands.

Use a compression guage with the metal spark plug adapter, and not the one with the tapered rubber plug, to check final compression.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Kreen makes for a good piston soak as well.


And kreen is also a 'lubricating' soak exactly as per Molakule's suggestions above...
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Kreen makes for a good piston soak as well.


And kreen is also a 'lubricating' soak exactly as per Molakule's suggestions above...


Yes it is. There's more than one way to skin a cat.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Kreen makes for a good piston soak as well.


And kreen is also a 'lubricating' soak exactly as per Molakule's suggestions above...


Yes it is. There's more than one way to skin a cat.
smile.gif



And a company this old with a flawless guarantee to meet YOUR expectations, whatever they may be simply must make a fairly decent product! Used by 480 of the Fortune 500, Kano Labs is an industrial manufacturing firms best friend...
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
And a company this old with a flawless guarantee to meet YOUR expectations, whatever they may be simply must make a fairly decent product! Used by 480 of the Fortune 500, Kano Labs is an industrial manufacturing firms best friend...

Very true, great company! I do want to try LC 20 for carbon issues and Rislone. Anything that works is a welcome addition to the tool box when i comes to dealing with neglected engines with issues.

Still, the fact the OP's reading were evenly low across the board leads me believe the engine was cold or the throttle was closed.
 
Never tried Kreen but sounds like it may do the job as well. Has annyone done a UOA to determine it detectable contents and viscosity?

I have always stayed away from the water-thin type cylinder cleaners for the piston soak because I don't believe they provide a sufficient film when rotating the crankshaft.

I have seen my mechanic use Kroil on rusted bolts on a '45 Plymouth truck he is rebuilding for his daughter and it does migrate into porous rust.
grin2.gif



Quote:
Still, the fact the OP's reading were evenly low across the board leads me believe the engine was cold or the throttle was closed.


It would be informative if the OP would get back to us and let us know the conditions under which he made the compression measurements.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Trav
Still, the fact the OP's reading were evenly low across the board leads me believe the engine was cold or the throttle was closed.


I'm betting the throttle was not opened. I see this a lot...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top