But is it ok to switch between brands on synthetic especially Grp III like Havoline Syn and Grp IV like Mobil 1. Same viscosity just different brand. Do you think it will matter. Will the engine use any oil? Gum up? Sludge up? Will the engine even no the difference?
I KNOW THIS HAS BEEN ASKED MANY MANY MANY TIME BEFORE
- Thread starter Timothy Ferguson
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No, no problems switching between them. Only thing I ahve heard anyone cautioning against is using 2 different brands of oil at the same time (ie M1 and Syntec) due to clashes in add packs, but even that is slim.
Switching oil brands can cause more consumption, lower tbn results and other things. It is better to stick with 1 oil.
Santo,
That is 1970's thinking. What makes you think this way.
That is 1970's thinking. What makes you think this way.
One advantage of sticking with the same thing is that if there is a problem, it reduces the variables in figuring out why. Pick something your have confidence in, and stick with it unless you are having problems.
I raise this question is because my stock of M1 is running out and they have havoline syn on sale where I am at. Just wondering if thats a stupid thing to do. I really do like M1.
Triple_Se7en
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doitmyself quote:
That is 1970's thinking. What makes you think this way.
This ain't what I think... just what I read on this board recently!
There is a reason moly is way down in these new SM varieties. It seems to aid in friction-enhancement when used with so much calcium, phosphorous & zinc in these new oils. Mixing a high moly oil like Havoline with another oil rich in calcium, phosphorous & zinc but very little moly "could" produce more friction.... well it may until proved otherwise.
I am a mixologist who constantly looks at the VOAs in the Virgin Oil forum & will only mix a high moly oil with another. I am presently mixing high moly Havoline 5W-20 with high moly Delo 400 15w40. Both come from the same family of Chevron Oil. That's important also to try & keep in the same family whenever possible. Don't know if-how-when-where or why Boron might play a role in this... but it may also.
Anyone with a different or disputing theory to this reply... please chime in.... I'm all ears.... oops... all eyes & I'm still in grade school learnin' about oils.
[ April 25, 2005, 03:33 PM: Message edited by: Triple_Se7en ]
That is 1970's thinking. What makes you think this way.
This ain't what I think... just what I read on this board recently!
There is a reason moly is way down in these new SM varieties. It seems to aid in friction-enhancement when used with so much calcium, phosphorous & zinc in these new oils. Mixing a high moly oil like Havoline with another oil rich in calcium, phosphorous & zinc but very little moly "could" produce more friction.... well it may until proved otherwise.
I am a mixologist who constantly looks at the VOAs in the Virgin Oil forum & will only mix a high moly oil with another. I am presently mixing high moly Havoline 5W-20 with high moly Delo 400 15w40. Both come from the same family of Chevron Oil. That's important also to try & keep in the same family whenever possible. Don't know if-how-when-where or why Boron might play a role in this... but it may also.
Anyone with a different or disputing theory to this reply... please chime in.... I'm all ears.... oops... all eyes & I'm still in grade school learnin' about oils.
[ April 25, 2005, 03:33 PM: Message edited by: Triple_Se7en ]
If your really worried about wear and the reduced additives in recent API standards go to a motorcycle shop and get bike oil.
Amsoil for example rates their bike oils as SG I believe.
This was when oils were allowed to have higher additive packs that are now disallowed because of catalytic converter and emissions issues. Problem is most bike oils are 10w-40 or 20w-50. So a good bike oil rated SG will have all the goodies.
Unless your very informed about what exactly is in the oils your mixing your making a mistake. You are not a tribologist.
Either am I and I realize these guys are WAY smarter and better informed than myself at least about lubrication.
Craig
Amsoil for example rates their bike oils as SG I believe.
This was when oils were allowed to have higher additive packs that are now disallowed because of catalytic converter and emissions issues. Problem is most bike oils are 10w-40 or 20w-50. So a good bike oil rated SG will have all the goodies.
Unless your very informed about what exactly is in the oils your mixing your making a mistake. You are not a tribologist.
Either am I and I realize these guys are WAY smarter and better informed than myself at least about lubrication.
Craig
Craig, I am using a CF/SH 5-30 dino XD3 oil in my new Nissan with 2400 miles on it right now, could this damage my cat or emission system?
What do these SG & SH oils do to cat and emission systems in new vehicles?
I am breaking engine in with this dino XD3 and anxious to put in the syn XD3 oil asap, I am using the dino version of XD3 SH rated oil to stay in same family of Esso XD3 oil for when I use the XD3 syn. XD3 syn is CI-4/SL.
thanks,
Cyprs
What do these SG & SH oils do to cat and emission systems in new vehicles?
I am breaking engine in with this dino XD3 and anxious to put in the syn XD3 oil asap, I am using the dino version of XD3 SH rated oil to stay in same family of Esso XD3 oil for when I use the XD3 syn. XD3 syn is CI-4/SL.
thanks,
Cyprs
Cyprs,
My guess is that the higher ZDDP content of this oil (XD-3) could slowly poison the cats. That is my main reason for using GC, or if I don't see the results I'm looking for, M1 10W30 or M1 5W30 EP.
My guess is that the higher ZDDP content of this oil (XD-3) could slowly poison the cats. That is my main reason for using GC, or if I don't see the results I'm looking for, M1 10W30 or M1 5W30 EP.
There is absolutely no proof of that.
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