I gave up trying to figure this stuff out...

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 16, 2004
Messages
1,910
Location
Vista, CA
I have an 03 V8 4-Runner and this stuff about coolant and which kind has what, has got me confused. So, one day last week I bought 4 jugs of Toyota super duper long life pre diluted antifreeze. They were from a damaged shipment and the bottles were scared but still full and sealed and came with a discount which made them only over priced and no longer outrageously over priced.. So, after everyone trying to sell me a coolant flush, with special chemicals, I've come up with a new plan. Every 15k miles, I'm going to open the drain at the bottom of the radiator, drain it and top it back up. What do you think?
 
No block drains? What percentage of the system are you changing by only doing the radiator? (Or, maybe that will get most all the system?).

Until I used either SCHAEFFERS "Clean & Cool" or RADIATOR MASTERS RMI-25, doing a good flush with a Prestone kit (etc, etc) was de rigueur. I now don't see quite the need . . .

. . except that I believe a coolant system filter would be the best idea. (See Bill Plocks thread on same). Then I'd not give your method a single second thought (except to check alkalinity).
 
I'm considering adding a coolant filter. I think that the filter and a partial change of fluid every 15k will be enough. I don't think that flushing after you get the gunk is the best way. Maybe it's better to chase the stuff a little at a time before it gets bad enough to need a flush.
 
In automotive use cooling system filters are of limited value.

In a truck, where you might use 12 gallons of coolant, you can recover the cost fairly quickly.

Often the filter not only removes particulate matter but also contains additives which slowly dissolve into the cooling system and renew the coolant.

For the cost of coolant, it usually makes more sense in automobiles to just drain, flush, and replenish the coolant at regular intervals.
 
quote:

Originally posted by LarryL:
I've come up with a new plan. Every 15k miles, I'm going to open the drain at the bottom of the radiator, drain it and top it back up. What do you think?

Just S&** one time I decided to see how good a hose flush with the Prestone flush adaptor that goes in the heater hose is.

I did the chemical thing, then flushed with the Prestone attachment in the heater hose until the water ran clear.

Then I opened the two block drains and more crud came out with the water.

I makes sense, a hose running full blast therough the Prestone T is only flowing 3 to 5 gpm, while a car water pump can flow 50 to 100 gpm at high speed. The Prestone T just doesn't flow enough water to get the crud sitting in the bottom of the block.

That's just a long windy way of saying you should do your draining at the radiator and at the block. Or better yet, clean your system properly once and stay on top of the chemical balance so it doesn't corrode again.
 
LarryL, your results will be excellent. To refine your approach a bit, a better idea might be to do the drains and replacements on a time basis, and not by miles.

This is exactly what I do, every 12 months -- grab three gallons of Toyota pink, drain radiator and block, re-fill and run 'till warm, let cool, drain rad and block again, and re-fill and top-off. All using only coolant, which is precisely what Toyota recommends in their OEM service manuals.

As to checking for deposits, I catch both the "old" and "flush" batches of coolant in a low-profile bucket. I have never seen a single flake of scale, particle of rust or other such sediment in the bottom of that bucket, even after a settling period.

Every 12 months regardless of mileage -- fast, easy and hassle-free.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom