At my workplace, we use nothing but Hyundai filters and Kia filters for those vehicles. We had a vehicle that had a champ labs filter on it, engine blew.
Hyundai oil filter vs Fram orange can
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Originally Posted By: LineArrayNut
Apparently the OEM filter is made in Korea by Dongwoo, which in 2002:
Joint Venture DongWoo MANN+HUMMEL Co. Ltd. is set up in South Korea (100% takeover in 2008)
and in 2008:
100% takeover of the Korean filter specialist Dongwoo Co. Ltd. and name change to MANN+HUMMEL Dongwoo Co. Ltd.
Hmm. I've noticed that a lot of the "Made in S. Korea" filters I see are of notably higher quality than Chinese or Mexican ones. Maybe now I know why.
Apparently the OEM filter is made in Korea by Dongwoo, which in 2002:
Joint Venture DongWoo MANN+HUMMEL Co. Ltd. is set up in South Korea (100% takeover in 2008)
and in 2008:
100% takeover of the Korean filter specialist Dongwoo Co. Ltd. and name change to MANN+HUMMEL Dongwoo Co. Ltd.
Hmm. I've noticed that a lot of the "Made in S. Korea" filters I see are of notably higher quality than Chinese or Mexican ones. Maybe now I know why.
Filter can, had tear/slit/crack in it, causing oil to leak from this area. Champ labs paid for the rebuild of the engine. After this we use KIA/HYUNDAI filters on EVERY one of said vehicles. Vehicle didnt knock, make noises, customer saw oil light on, shut vehicle off and had vehicle towed to our shop
^ That's interesting. Wonder if pressure from Hyundai engine is just unusually high and Champ oil filter design is not adequate to handle, or was the filter defective slipping through manufacture or damaged somewhere along line to installation in Hyundai vehicle? Too, I wonder how many engine repairs/replacements are actually paid for by different oil filter companies.
Also, if non-OEM oil filters are such a problem in Hyundai vehicles...why isn't recommendation for using only OEM filters mentioned in Hyundai owners' manuals. My 2013 Sonata owner manual states in it recommendations for what oil to use, including printed right on outside back cover, but there is no mention anywhere in owner manual to use only OEM oil filter!
There is currently or was a bulletin on using OEM filters on all Hyundai/Kias, that use a ph 2808 filter type. That is the main reason we use OEM filters on those vehicles. To verify why my company uses OEM, look up TSB 05-20-002 ABOUT using aftermarket filters, that may cause engine knocking and construction may be different from manuf. to manuf.
Hmm. Very interesting re: aftermarket filters.
Did 4 oil changes before I traded in the Tucson. All four was using Purolator. Never had a problem each time.
Did 4 oil changes before I traded in the Tucson. All four was using Purolator. Never had a problem each time.
The filter that blew up the engine was the 3rd champ labs filter that leaked from the can and blew engines up
should have said that 3 vehicles that had champ labs filters on them blew up.
One was Hyundai Sante Fe, other was 09' Escape with v-6(ph 500 champ filter can leaked out all the oil). other or 3rd was impala hat uses/d ph 59 champ filter. lately havent had any filter problems but we're using napa filters.
Originally Posted By: shell_user
One was Hyundai Sante Fe, other was 09' Escape with v-6(ph 500 champ filter can leaked out all the oil). other or 3rd was impala hat uses/d ph 59 champ filter. lately havent had any filter problems but we're using napa filters.
I was with you at one auto manufacturer-one brand. But once you headed to the entire auto industry you lost me. I smell a Fram hater, sorry. BTW, a Napa gold was where i experienced a mysterious oil light. Emergency swapping to a spare purolator classic solved it.
One was Hyundai Sante Fe, other was 09' Escape with v-6(ph 500 champ filter can leaked out all the oil). other or 3rd was impala hat uses/d ph 59 champ filter. lately havent had any filter problems but we're using napa filters.
I was with you at one auto manufacturer-one brand. But once you headed to the entire auto industry you lost me. I smell a Fram hater, sorry. BTW, a Napa gold was where i experienced a mysterious oil light. Emergency swapping to a spare purolator classic solved it.
Originally Posted By: RiceCake
Go to Canadian Tire and get a Quaker State filter, they are in fact Purolator Classics, pretty decent filters for average OCI's, and price wise not too bad.
Agreed. Aside from that, at CT, he could get an M1 or Fram XG or K&N for less than the OEM filter.
Go to Canadian Tire and get a Quaker State filter, they are in fact Purolator Classics, pretty decent filters for average OCI's, and price wise not too bad.
Agreed. Aside from that, at CT, he could get an M1 or Fram XG or K&N for less than the OEM filter.
Some users on this board have reported startup noises using aftermarket filters on these engines.
My advise would be to try an OCD or Purolator Classic and see what happens.
I don't believe that either will fail as a result of oil pressure, but you might find them noisier at engine start than the OEM oil filter.
Only one way to find out.
My advise would be to try an OCD or Purolator Classic and see what happens.
I don't believe that either will fail as a result of oil pressure, but you might find them noisier at engine start than the OEM oil filter.
Only one way to find out.
Here is a teardown of Hyundai OEM and Purolator filters side by side:
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/130394-dissection-oem-hyundai-filter.html
The OEM filter certainly appears to be of very high quality and is not very expensive - my local dealer has them for $7.00 or they can be had for around $4 in 10 packs. The Purolator is certainly well constructed as well. The same forum member also dissected an OCOD, and there is no way I'd use one in my 2.0T.
Considering price and quality, I'm sticking with the OEM filter.
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/130394-dissection-oem-hyundai-filter.html
The OEM filter certainly appears to be of very high quality and is not very expensive - my local dealer has them for $7.00 or they can be had for around $4 in 10 packs. The Purolator is certainly well constructed as well. The same forum member also dissected an OCOD, and there is no way I'd use one in my 2.0T.
Considering price and quality, I'm sticking with the OEM filter.
Originally Posted By: wolf_06
Originally Posted By: The Critic
The orange can has better efficiency than most OEM oil filters.
I would not hesitate to use the orange can for the 5k intervals.
how can you measure that?
This was posted by Fram's technical manager on a paid forum that I am on:
"FRAM's least expensive filter has 96% single pass
efficiency. What that means is it removes 96% of all dirt in
the 5-20 micron range the first time the oil goes through
the filter. Most OE filters are in the 50-60% range. That is
for our least expensive filter. Our Tough Guard filter has
99% single pass efficiency, all silicone antidrain back
valves, a stainless screen over the bypass valve. Mack
trucks is the only OE that offers a million mile warranty,
we are OE on Mack. Honda and Subaru are fairly well known
for reliable, long lasting engines, we are OE on these. None
of the internet experts ever compares filter efficiency or
capacity, they do not have the equipment to do any real
tesing at all. We have other even more premium filters in
the marketplace, i have never seen any of these 'cut open"
by the net filter experts either."
The info in this comparison test by Amsoil also supports this (bottom of the page):
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx?1046189
Originally Posted By: The Critic
The orange can has better efficiency than most OEM oil filters.
I would not hesitate to use the orange can for the 5k intervals.
how can you measure that?
This was posted by Fram's technical manager on a paid forum that I am on:
"FRAM's least expensive filter has 96% single pass
efficiency. What that means is it removes 96% of all dirt in
the 5-20 micron range the first time the oil goes through
the filter. Most OE filters are in the 50-60% range. That is
for our least expensive filter. Our Tough Guard filter has
99% single pass efficiency, all silicone antidrain back
valves, a stainless screen over the bypass valve. Mack
trucks is the only OE that offers a million mile warranty,
we are OE on Mack. Honda and Subaru are fairly well known
for reliable, long lasting engines, we are OE on these. None
of the internet experts ever compares filter efficiency or
capacity, they do not have the equipment to do any real
tesing at all. We have other even more premium filters in
the marketplace, i have never seen any of these 'cut open"
by the net filter experts either."
The info in this comparison test by Amsoil also supports this (bottom of the page):
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx?1046189
Does the Hyundai oil filter have the same bypass pressure as Fram's? Does the OEM have anti-drain back feature, if applicable, vs Fram's. You may want to Google these first.
Personally, I'd stick to OEM since it has the right spec and feature for my car.
Personally, I'd stick to OEM since it has the right spec and feature for my car.
Leaky, I have used and have a few old stock frams without the grip stuff on the filter. Just posting my experiences is all so dont go calling me a "hater". The other two vehicles with champ filters; one was installer error(cross threaded I found out. Other was double gasketed and gorilla strapped on.
Going by the comments in the link posted above, the bypass valve is set to open at a lower PSI. This may explain why there is less start-up noise with an OEM filter.
About a year ago, I put a P1 on my Kia (with Pennzoil Platinum 5w30). I got a case of BITOGitis, and thought I could hear the dreaded start-up noise in the morning. About a week later, I swapped out the filter for an OEM, and not much changed. I could still hear some noise on the coldest days. The only thing that happened was that I wasted a perfectly good P1 filter.
This winter I am going to try some 0w-20, with an OEM. We'll see if that does anything to the noise level
I have not heard a noise directly attributed to the oil filter in my Kia, but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen. Maybe some owners are using oils that are a little more viscus when cold, and the higher bypass valve pressure is exacerbating the start-up rattle.
My opinion: Hyundai/Kia filters are a good filter, and worth the money, especially when you buy a case. I would buy some off Ebay and have them shipped to you. In the mean time, use whatever you can get your hands on. If you don't notice a rattle, don't worry about what isn't there.
About a year ago, I put a P1 on my Kia (with Pennzoil Platinum 5w30). I got a case of BITOGitis, and thought I could hear the dreaded start-up noise in the morning. About a week later, I swapped out the filter for an OEM, and not much changed. I could still hear some noise on the coldest days. The only thing that happened was that I wasted a perfectly good P1 filter.
This winter I am going to try some 0w-20, with an OEM. We'll see if that does anything to the noise level
I have not heard a noise directly attributed to the oil filter in my Kia, but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen. Maybe some owners are using oils that are a little more viscus when cold, and the higher bypass valve pressure is exacerbating the start-up rattle.
My opinion: Hyundai/Kia filters are a good filter, and worth the money, especially when you buy a case. I would buy some off Ebay and have them shipped to you. In the mean time, use whatever you can get your hands on. If you don't notice a rattle, don't worry about what isn't there.
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