Hypoid oil

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I'll chime in again. Shortly after I got it, I drained the 4-sp manual trans on my Volvo & refilled with Mystic gear oil. This would have been sometime in late 75-early 76. Kept Mystic in the trans for the rest of the time I had it. Was still smooth shifting, reliable, no transmission problems at all when I sold the car in fall '97.

IMO, Mystic gear oil was & is a *great* product. The oil field trucking yard where I worked back then used it in every gearbox & diff they had, & problems with those units were almost nil.

I just ran the rear end with what came in it for years.
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Finally in ~82-83 I bought a suction gun & got all the old diff oil out possible with that method. Refilled with some dino gear oil that claimed suitability for hypoid applications. A couple of years later I pulled that out & refilled with Mystic. It was getting a slight whine at highway speeds, that disappeared within 50 miles & never returned!
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No problems, no leaks, was on its second Mystic fill when sold in 97.

Volvo used at least 2 different rear axles on those cars, maybe 3 or 4. I can't remember all the makers now. And IIRC, the station wagons were geared lower than the sedans. Going from memory: About 4.10:1 for the sedans, maybe ~4.56:1 for station wagons.

I strongly suspect your Volvo has a regular open diff, & not a limited slip. I know mine did. I believe mine also had the Spicer rear end, but woudn't swear to it.

If I had your car: I'd use any good 70/75w80/90 gear oil in the trans, & Schaeffer or Mystic would be my top two picks. If Schaeffer says their product is suitable for hypoid applications, I would be delighted to put it in the rear end also. I know Mystic will work fine. And the Mystic is very pretty stuff: looks like Cherry or Strawberry snow cone syrup.
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These days you usually have to read the fine print on a gear oil for hypoid sutability. Many of them are, & I suspect this is an area that's improved a great deal since the 1950's & '60's when those cars were designed & made.

Good luck, & let us know what you use!
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If you read the Technical and White papers under the "Science and Technology of Lubricating Oils and Additives" thread, there are at least three articles dealing with gear lubes and formulations.

All hypoid differentials require an EP protections rating of GL5.

quote:

The manual for my 1965 Volvo 122S calls for 90W non-hypoid oil for the transmission and 90W hypoid oil for the diff.

For manual transmissions, there is our SF series (MTL-P specifically), also Redline MTL, and RP.

Just about any 75W90 differential lubricant with a GL5 rating should suffice, such as our HDS-5 in 75W90.
 
If I can find some locally, think I`d like to try the Schaeffers #267. I checked and it`s OK for all types of diffs. Mola`s brew looks really good also. The diff doesn`t have a drain plug. I`d like to pull the cover, clean out the sludge and then not need to bother it for a long while!!
 
I'll vouch for SF's gear/transmission fluids. Excellent shifing in my manual Subaru MTL-R, excellent in the differential HDS-5, excellent in the final drive of my motorcycle, excellent in another subaru I own in rear and front differentials.
 
I don`t see much mention of the term "hypoid" these days as it applies to differential gear lube. Castrol alludes to it with their Hypoy series of gear lubes.

The manual for my 1965 Volvo 122S calls for 90W non-hypoid oil for the transmission and 90W hypoid oil for the diff.

I`m still trying to decide which oil for the diff and have about decided on Castrol Hypoy C 75W90. Would Schaeffers be OK?

Stuart Hughes and I talked a little about this. The Volvo has a Spicer diff! I`m not sure if it is a limited slip model or not, but I suspect it is.
I guess a limited slip lube additive would not cause a problem in a non-limited slip diff.
 
"All hypoid differentials require an EP protections rating of GL5."

Does this mean that a gear lube which states that it is GL5 and suitable for a hypoid differential definitely has an EP rating, even if EP is not specifically noted? I've been trying to track down an answer to this for months.

GrtArtiste
 
Hi there,

I am thinking of changing the differential lube in my 1974 240D. If I want to go dino, I could get Supertech 80W90 (2 bottles) for $6 or Castrol Synthetic 80W90 (2 bottles) for $30.

Do I run a danger of leaks springing up? This differential is part of the fully independent suspension. The axles are connected with rubber boots just like a front wheel drive vehicle.

In my 1986 Jetta, using Redline MT90 fluid immediately started leaks in main seals. I did not have a chance since there was no other GL4 specced oil. Since there is so much choise in GL5 oils, I would like to find something which is easy on the seals.

My understanding is that the diffential is hard to destroy with lube in it. Manufacturers do not specify replacement of the diffential oil, just checking the level. Maybe if one races from a stop light etc, differential may fail. However, if a leak starts and the oil is drained failure is certain.

W115nut
 
No leaks when I changed my w123 to mobil 1.

I would suggest using M1 75w-90, and replace it early the first time. Someone on mercedesshop.com opened their diff before and after running M1 in their car, and it cleaned things up SIGNIFICANTLY.

Using a lube with LS additive in it supposedly can harden up the surfaces to help reduce wear.

JMH
 
quote:

Originally posted by JAYCEE:

quote:

Originally posted by Ken2:
Are there any differentials that are NOT hypoid?


Ken


I've always thought they look more like bevel gears than hypoids. But I'm no expert....


HYPOID GEARS---Definition: A type of differential final drive using a spiral bevel gear on the drive shaft, allowing it to be located below the center of the ring gear on the axle.
http://autorepair.about.com/library/glossary/bldef-507.htm

Ken
 
quote:

Originally posted by JAYCEE:
I've always thought they look more like bevel gears than hypoids. But I'm no expert....

I think a more succint way to explain it is that, with bevel gears, the rotating axes intersect. With hypoid gears, the rotating axes do not intersect.

How does this relate to lubrication?... Hypoid gears experience considerably more sliding action at the mating teeth than with bevel gears.

The reason hypoid gears are favored over bevel gears for rear axles is because this design allows the manufacturers to lower the driveshaft, which allows more passenger cabin room.

[ July 03, 2006, 08:11 PM: Message edited by: Kestas ]
 
quote:

Does this mean that a gear lube which states that it is GL5 and suitable for a hypoid differential definitely has an EP rating, even if EP is not specifically noted? I've been trying to track down an answer to this for months.

Here are some tech papers on gears and gear lubrication:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=56;t=000013

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=56;t=000015

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=56;t=000022
 
Hi there,

I bought Pennzoil Dino 80W90 with LS additive in it. I will ask my mechanic to change the differential oil next time I go for the shocks.

W115nut
 
Followup:

$30 (labor) + $8 (for the 2 bottles of Pennzoil) poorer now, and I asked my Mercedes mechanic how the fluid coming out the differential was. It was apparently in good shape. He told me not to bother with changing gear oil again.-) The car rides well and I need all the extra help I can get with 62hp 240D.-)

My mechanic thinks Mobil 1 etc. is a total waste of money for this car.

If he did not love the car, I may have thought that he feels sorry for me.-)

W115nut "74 240D with all drivetrain fluids replaced"

P.S. Jiffy Lube does the same service for $17 fluid included.
 
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