hvlp paint gun

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 30, 2010
Messages
17,971
Location
North Carolina
I'm interested in a hvlp gun set. I don't need a $400 sata but in might paint a small car ( saturn) or a few body panels. I also might use it for some furniture refinishing. I'm probably looking for a 2 gun set with a 1.4 tip for single stage, a 1.8 for primers.

Any suggestions, i don't want to put more than $150 in it for how i would use it.
 
Devilbiss finishline 4, about $170 with a 1.3 tip or Astro EUROHV103.

http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-EUROHV103-EuroPro/dp/B0040Y301S

http://www.amazon.com/Devilbiss-Finishline-FLG-670-Solvent-Gravity/dp/B006ZO2MI8

I have a SATA 4000 and a Devilbiss, i use the Devilbiss for color and the SATA for clear but the Devilbiss lays the clear down nice also.
I used the Astro a friend has and it is a lot of gun for the money, it does base and clear well. If you can paint the SATA can give a slightly better finish that almost needs no sanding or buffing and only needs a minimal amount to be glass smooth.
I do have an Astro euro mini gun with a 1.0 tip and it lays it down as good as any out there. For my money the Astro is the sleeper and probably what i would buy in this price class.

I use only 1.3 tips for color/clear and Chromabase topped with Nason clear (less expensive but a true sleeper clear, its actually the old Dupont glamor clear) durability and longevity are fantastic.
Don't use your good gun for primers, get some elcheapo with a 1.8 tip on it from horror freight, its a disposable item, buy it as such.

Edit: i see you want do do single stage, the 1.3 will work well, it will have a very slight amount more orange peel then a 1.4 but less chance of running. It depends on your skill.
The Astro is available with a 1.5 for under $100 and a $20 HF primer gun. This will work really well for what you want.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: dave123
How much air delivery do you have.


Not enough lol. I have 8.5 at 40 psi. So i will have to do a car in sections. Basically i need to paint the bumper and hood on my sons saturn this summer. But the whole car needs paint. I will probably do the whole car in sections. If i run up on a larger tank, i may connect another compressor of about the same size as mine and try the whole car.
 
Originally Posted By: dave123
Buying the cart before the horse.


You are right, but i have a compressor, and not enough need to buy a bigger one right now.
 
No idea really, i never used one. I cant see it having great atomization at that flow.
I tend to stay with the guns i have used for a long time and have the feel for.
 
I have both the 0.75 ltr plastic and the 1 ltr aluminum, the aluminum does hold more but its heavier when full so its a bit of trade off but no one says you have to fill it to the max either. Get the aluminum if the price difference isn't very much.

Either way i use these to make cleanup much easier, you still need to clean the gun but the cups stay clean.

http://www.amazon.com/DeVilbiss-Liner-Disposable-Kit-48-Adapters/dp/B000XQ7GYE

Back in the day when i first started i used single stage acrylic enamels and acrylic lacquer with lacquer clear but it wasn't very good compared to todays base/clear finishes.
For doing this in at home in a garage base/clear is the only way to go IMHO, it flashes off fast and keeps dirt to a minimum. You would have to almost try to make Chroma base run its that easy to spray.
Nason clear is a great clear even for beginners, just a couple of coats and its good to go. I did the quarters and bumpers on my GP 7 years ago and they have never seen wax and look as good as the day i sprayed them, no flex additive needed on the plastic (huge plus point).
 
Wow thanks, I don't have that much experience so i just thought a single stage might be the way to go on an older college car. you have my interest in trying a bc/cc. It will be probably june before i do this. I'm going to practice on the ciera first. I have painted the bumper on his car 2 years ago with a borrowed harbor freight gun and my compressor. It turned out well, until he contacted another car last month. The current clear coat is peeling off the sides and trunk, so i have some work to prep. Any particular primer you use to seal an older clear coat? I plan to sand down all the edges that are peeling and prime the whole car.

Where do you buy your base and clear? local?
 
Last edited:
I sprayed my first car back in 75, i had a great painter for a teacher. Its one of the very few things i still thoroughly enjoy doing on cars.
Let me know when you do this i would be happy to show you the products and procedures i use as well as some of the pitfalls i have run into over the years (high end primers being a major one).
 
No need to prime the whole car if you are staying with the same color or going darker unless the original is peeling or your using a "hot" paint over non hardened enamels.
Just prime the bare spots with self etching primer and cover it with regular lacquer primer. The factory finish is the best base for new paint adhesion there is so make use of it and save a ton of work in the bargain.

Just clean the original paint and sand it with an orbital/DA or by hand with a block and water with 800 wet/dry paper then prepsol the car down one small section at a time.
I buy all my paint local but you can get it online.
 
Thanks i will hit you up when i paint, i'm just planning ahead. Probably june when the pollen has settled down here.( will use an outdoor made temporary booth )The clear coat is peeling in places , should i just prime those areas after sanding back, vs the whole car?
 
Last edited:
Yep sand the old clear down with an orbital using a courser paper until its removed then go to 800 and prime any bare spots.
PM me when your ready to get started.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom