I've seen the mythical 180 degrees used across many brands/forums - what say you BITOG? Do you really need to wait and stay out of boost shortly after startup/before the oil is warmed up? Is this based on anything or akin to "change you oil after 500 miles b/c of the metal flakes in it"?
How warm should oil be in a turbo engine before sending it?
- Thread starter TiGeo
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I mean… I wouldn’t go romping on it instantly, but I’d be okay with 140-150F on the oil to start enjoying the boost.
Kind of apples to oranges, but a lot of off road turbo diesels go from stone cold to hard work almost instantly and they generally live long lives.
Kind of apples to oranges, but a lot of off road turbo diesels go from stone cold to hard work almost instantly and they generally live long lives.
On a cold moring (below freezing), the oil on my Subaru wouldn't even hit 180F! Coolant was right where it needed to be, though.
What does the oil temperature have to do with anything as long as the oil is flowing? Which it should be within seconds of start up if you have the proper weight of oil. I'd be more concerned of a cold engine backfire taking out the turbo.
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Because its too 'thick' at start up. 0W = High viscosity compared to summer rating. Just remember a turbo is trying to spin bearings in that at crazy rev speed. 165 degrees minimum. Oil temp.
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If it's too thick at start up, you're using the wrong weight. 0W should flow seconds after start up at well below 0.
Flow and viscosity are two different things. 0W is only so the oil can flow at freezing temps. 0W is a lot thicker than summer rating even at 50+
It isn't the oil alone what matters. Both oil temp and coolant temp are
indicators for the engine hardware. After start-up the piston temp raises
very quickly, while the cylinder sleeves as well als the entire crankcase
only slowly raise in temperature. As a consequence the piston expand
while the cylinder sleeves haven't yet. Perhaps that's the main reason for
increased wear during warm-up. It takes time distributing, say spreading
the heat. So the oil temp itself isn't the only thing to look for. The other
contributing factor is time. While it's easier to say your engine is ready
to rev at say 80°C/175°F it's probably not a bad idea to wait at least ten
minutes also.
That said, overcautiously lugging an engine results in slowly getting up
to temp and as a result the engine may not get up to full operating temp
at all on shorter distance trips, causing oil dilution as fuel and water aren't
allowed to evaporate.
indicators for the engine hardware. After start-up the piston temp raises
very quickly, while the cylinder sleeves as well als the entire crankcase
only slowly raise in temperature. As a consequence the piston expand
while the cylinder sleeves haven't yet. Perhaps that's the main reason for
increased wear during warm-up. It takes time distributing, say spreading
the heat. So the oil temp itself isn't the only thing to look for. The other
contributing factor is time. While it's easier to say your engine is ready
to rev at say 80°C/175°F it's probably not a bad idea to wait at least ten
minutes also.
That said, overcautiously lugging an engine results in slowly getting up
to temp and as a result the engine may not get up to full operating temp
at all on shorter distance trips, causing oil dilution as fuel and water aren't
allowed to evaporate.
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Where are you sending it?
My VW has an oil temp display - same, can take quite a while to get above 180.
Sending it...you know...giving it the beans, romping it, etc.
Yeah, I usually send it too when given beans.
I don't think it matters at all. Oil and coolant will start flowing within seconds. The turbine should heat up relatively quickly and will always be hotter than the oil moving across the turbine bearings.
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There was a guy on one of the VW forums whose son blew his built TDI engine by abusing it when cold. It’s common sense to let the engine/transmission get up to operating temp before getting into the throttle.
Yes, any EA888 3G has an oil temp sender sitting in the oil pan. To be more precise
it's a combined temp and oil level sender. Oil temp on these cars is pretty precise
(only two or three Kelvin off from OBD data which should be reliable), while coolant
temp is 'corrected' (and the opposite of correct actually), as it displays 90°C/195°F at
anything between 70°C/160°F and 115°C/240°F. A non issue as long as true oil temp
does exist though. It usually takes no more than ten minutes to get to 100°C/212°C
oil temp on my GTI which I find fairly quick. Of course it's increasingly getting difficult
exceeding this threshold when temps are approaching freezing. I prefer triple digit oil
temps as it helps fuel and water to vaporize.
.
In my area of CA where it never gets below 32F....the matter is irrelevant. Full throttle as soon as it leaves my driveway, if-needed.
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