The shaft is solid steel. Do you have an example off this happening?
How warm should oil be in a turbo engine before sending it?
- Thread starter TiGeo
- Start date
I know of several snapped shafts, but wasn't there when it happened... Only turbo I killed happened after i cracked the sump and lost most oil. snapped the shaft aswell.
Here's the thing, the compressor side needs the same amount of torque on it no matter what the temperature of the oil is to make the requested boost. but the turbine side needs to put more torque in to overcome the extra drag. At 100,000 or more rpm, it's a significant amout of drag. especially 3.5 cP vs 30,000 cP....
Here's the thing, the compressor side needs the same amount of torque on it no matter what the temperature of the oil is to make the requested boost. but the turbine side needs to put more torque in to overcome the extra drag. At 100,000 or more rpm, it's a significant amout of drag. especially 3.5 cP vs 30,000 cP....
Who said it is just about turbo damage? Just a good rule to not use a motor hard until it is up to operating temp. Some of us make a little more power than a base Accent.
I've literally screamed at co-workers who fired up our Bobcat Toolcat turbo diesel and John Deere turbo diesel tractor on a cold start and went straight to full throttle. Like, what the heck dude.
This kind of stuff keeps me employed! I love it. One of the stevedoring yards is a good customer and we asked them to stop doing that if they wanted stuff to last longer. Manager laughed and said yeah right these guys are just going to do what they want to do. Ok then, good news for me
50,000,000 soccer Moms have already proven that engines and turbos won't explode when the piss is beaten out them stone cold.
They do it with dirty oil too........
They do it with dirty oil too........
And that makes me a lot of money! Especially when I worked at Acura and got to replace a LOT of carboned up pistons. Thank you oblivious soccer moms.
It’s a car, not an iPhone.
Again, oil viscosity is a lesser issue. It's the piston and cylinder sleeve
pairing actually. You don't want the pistons to fully expand while the
cylinder sleeve is still most tight, inevitably leading to increased wear.
Did you read my post?
Come on now, we are talking about OIL TEMP. Once oil temp is up in the ranges I referenced in my post we are already talking about Coolant, thus cylinder walls that have reached normal operating temperatures.
I am not a lay person when it comes to this, I am a mechanical engineer, I design hydraulic systems for caterpillar, I build my engines, I race my engines and that includes snowmobiles which are a common victim of cold seizure due to piston vs. cylinder wall temps which is what you are referencing in you post.
Possibly take a look at the original post. The question asked about OIL TEMP in a Turbo engine. My point with my post was to illustrate the FACT there is only 20 cST difference in viscosity in a 5W30 motor oil with a temp range from 60C to 100C which in my opinion is not enough to make one bit of difference from the turbo's perspective, especially considering today's automotive turbos which are not only oil cooled/lubricated but water cooled, which if you paid attention was the original premise of this thread.
So this is supposed to be a ****-measuring contest? Nice prospects!
Now you're thinking with your dipstick.
I think you are typical of most drivers. No one gives much thought about their car engine.
I've always though about it like sex. You'll have a much happier partner if you warm her up first.
Because they already last long enough for the average consumer...
I don’t mind going to 20-30% throttle when it’s cold, like within the first minutes of a cold start. That’s plenty to get on the freeway a mile away. Warms up FAR faster if I can get some power down. I wouldn’t go for full boost without the oil below 120f
My Hyundai 2L turbo won't boost over 5 lbs when under 150F. They changed this when they boosted the power output to 160F. But in Canada some cars never hit 160F so they had to do a TSB campaign.
I had coolers on the car when I tracked it. Only time oil temp was an issue as stock it hit 300F after 4 out of 5 laps in the summer.
I have two oil temp senders. One is on the filter output and the other is at the top of the head. The filter one will read higher on a cold engine until about 125F then it switches and the filter one will run about 10F lower when fully warmed up. 220F is about as high as it gets now, +90F and AC while highway cruising.
I had coolers on the car when I tracked it. Only time oil temp was an issue as stock it hit 300F after 4 out of 5 laps in the summer.
I have two oil temp senders. One is on the filter output and the other is at the top of the head. The filter one will read higher on a cold engine until about 125F then it switches and the filter one will run about 10F lower when fully warmed up. 220F is about as high as it gets now, +90F and AC while highway cruising.
‘Nuff said.
In addition the question was not only about oil temp but oil temp as it relates to the turbo* rather than the engine as a whole.
* On or Off Boost.
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