How to stop ticking noise?

[ZZman]

Feel free to contact Frank at Auto-RX with your concerns.


It might even be possible that some cleaning might increase the tolerances ever so slightly and make some more noise.

My thought with the thicker oil was it would leave a thicker film and tighten things up a little.

 

[Vlaj]

Originally Posted By: ZZman
Feel free to contact Frank at Auto-RX with your concerns.

It might even be possible that some cleaning might increase the tolerances ever so slightly and make some more noise.

My thought with the thicker oil was it would leave a thicker film and tighten things up a little.


I tried the Auto-RX for a long time now. It did nothing to reduce or dampen the ticking noise from the solid lifters/tappet.

My understanding now is; the tappets/shims are worn or lose and when the engine warms up, the metal expands and the ticking is gone.

So there must be something that can be added to the oil that will cause put some layer or coat the tappets/shims with it. Then you would not have to wait for the engine to warm up and expand the metal.

I've not use any other additive to the oil other than Auto-Rx. I think it may be time to try something but I just don't know and don't want to take a chance it ruins engine or makes it worse noise, etc.

I will something interesting:

I been using Castrol GTX conventional 5x30 for a long time. Also, been using the Purolator PureONE oil filter.

Now, I am thinking something with the noise could be from filter and pressure....

When I used Motorcraft Oil Filter FL-400S in the past, the ticking noise was worse and even noise lower in the engine. It would still go away after engine warms up but just stopping the engine when shopping and restart, noise is there even though the engine is still warm.

When I use Purolator PureONE, that ticking is not as bad and the deep noise is gone. And the tick is not as bad on restarts.

 

[SR5]

Mate, at the risk of sounding like a stereotypical Australian, run a thicker oil in that car. Your mechanic has already suggested a 10w40, and I would follow his advice. As ZZman says, a 40 weight oil would be no problem in your car. It's not going to explode.

I agree with many of the previous people, an oil can't make up for bad mechanical condition, but your mechanic has actually seen and worked on the car, so it sounds like it's OK, with no major faults. I understand your position of not wanting to invest too much cash in stripping down this engine and rebuilding it.

In a recent post a guy used valvoline MaxLife 20w50 to control oil leaks on an old Ford engine. He lived in a warmer climate, so went heavier in oil weight. These high milage oils should have seal treatment in them, to help old oil seals. Can't fix a tear, but worth a go. Also down this way, people often use Castrol Edge 10w60 in their GM LS1 V8's to reduce the ticking in the engines once the milage is up. Not everybody likes it this heavy in a new engine (unless racing for high temp. protection, and even then some prefer thin to extract extra HP, very debatable point and each racer has their own way) however it seems to work well in the older engines with higher miles. The logic is that with higher miles, the engine clearances are now a little loose, and so a thicker oil fills the gap better.

I would dump the oil you have in there, that AutoRx you tried seems to have made the problem worse, and use a High Milage 10w40. Just a Conventional or semi synthetic oil, no need for a full synthetic.

You asked about additives. To me there are three basic types.
- Oil thickeners. I avoid these and prefer to run a thicker oil.
- Oil / Engine cleaners. I avoid these and prefer to run a full synthetic oil with good cleaning properties.
- Oil friction additives. The only one I trust is MoS2 (moly disulphide), its a well known EP additive to oils and greases. The good German stuff is called Liqui Moly. It doesn't hurt the oil (or block the filter) but it coats all the metal parts and allows them to run a lot smoother. This additive has reduced the engine noise and allowed a lot of old engines to run smoother. It's also great for start up wear as it bonds to the metal surface and doesn't drain back with the oil when the engine is off. I've heard a few stories of people cautiously trying it in their clapped out old mower for the first time, then being so impressed with the results, they add it to almost everything else.

I feel fresh conventional 10w40 oil first, and if that doesn't help then a dose of MoS2 a week later should help a lot with the ticking noise. I can't see it hurting anything, even in your cold climate.

Let us know how you get on and good luck to you.

 

[Vlaj]

SR5, thanks for the in depth response.

I guess I could try conventional 10x40 although, in the winter, I can't run 10x weight has to be 5x it gets below freezing. I do like to use Castrol GTX but can't find it as 5x40.

What about Liqui-Moly Tappet Stop Noise?

And, I read a lot about adding Zinc to oil?

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: Vlaj
SR5, thanks for the in depth response.

I guess I could try conventional 10x40 although, in the winter, I can't run 10x weight has to be 5x it gets below freezing. I do like to use Castrol GTX but can't find it as 5x40.

What about Liqui-Moly Tappet Stop Noise?

And, I read a lot about adding Zinc to oil?


Hey,

I used the MoS2 Friction Reducer. I saw the other product but don't know much about it. It could be the same product in a different container for marketing, or just a different concentration of MoS2, or maybe it has a dose of VII's added to thicken the oil. The only VII's I like in the oil are the ones put there by the oil manufacturer.

Because of the last possibility I didn't buy it, especially when the regular moly product was sitting on the shelf right beside it.

Maybe somebody else knows and can tell us. Have you tried their web page?

I don't know about extra zinc, I always though MoS2 was the better product that was used in most of the Extreme Pressure greases. We used moly in the mines, and a mate in the air force was also allowed to use moly. However ZDDP is already in almost every oil, so in that respect it's a safe choice.

There is MoS2 in my car right now. Mechanic put generic oil in the car, so I gave it half a dose. My next oil will be a name brand synthetic, so I will leave that oil pure (no moly added)

Cheers,
SR5

 

[SR5]

It's winter here, so it must be summer there.
Go the 10w40 now and change to 5w40 for winter.

Most 5w40 's I know are full synthetics, while the 10w40 's tend to be semi-synthetics like Durablend.

I would just add the MoS2 to the summer 10w40, and let it go through winter on the synthetic 5w40 without any MoS2

But that's just me.

 

[Bigdaddyeasy]

Go thicker, 0,5,10w40

 

[Triton_330]

Originally Posted By: Vlaj

I tried the Auto-RX for a long time now. It did nothing to reduce or dampen the ticking noise from the solid lifters/tappet.

My understanding now is; the tappets/shims are worn or lose and when the engine warms up, the metal expands and the ticking is gone.

So there must be something that can be added to the oil that will cause put some layer or coat the tappets/shims with it. Then you would not have to wait for the engine to warm up and expand the metal.

I've not use any other additive to the oil other than Auto-Rx. I think it may be time to try something but I just don't know and don't want to take a chance it ruins engine or makes it worse noise, etc.

I will something interesting:

I been using Castrol GTX conventional 5x30 for a long time. Also, been using the Purolator PureONE oil filter.

Now, I am thinking something with the noise could be from filter and pressure....

When I used Motorcraft Oil Filter FL-400S in the past, the ticking noise was worse and even noise lower in the engine. It would still go away after engine warms up but just stopping the engine when shopping and restart, noise is there even though the engine is still warm.

When I use Purolator PureONE, that ticking is not as bad and the deep noise is gone. And the tick is not as bad on restarts.



If I may I make a suggestion...

http://www.amazon.com/Mag-62836-6PK-Synthetic-European-Formula/dp/B0077K8TXG
and
http://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PSL20195-Synthetic-Spin--Filter/dp/B007BXCMIW

That oil and that filter may help to quiet your engine, without the need to add anything extra like Mos2.

~ Triton

 

[ExMachina]

Best that can be done is to use Castrol Edge 0w-40 or Mobil 1 0w-40 in the 5 quart jugs at Walmart or Amazon.com, pretty cheap for great engineered products. Then put in a bottle of LiquiMoly Mos2 or try their Ceratec product with hexagonal boron.

 

[dlundblad]

My Jeep ticks too. The oil filter used to play a huge role in it, but now it ticks whenever it wants to, but always goes away once warm.

I guess when the tick never goes away then Ill have the lifters replaced.

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Best that can be done is to use Castrol Edge 0w-40 or Mobil 1 0w-40 in the 5 quart jugs at Walmart or Amazon.com, pretty cheap for great engineered products. Then put in a bottle of LiquiMoly Mos2 or try their Ceratec product with hexagonal boron.


ExMachina is correct, the full synthetic 0w-40 oils are top quality products, and work very well in winter or summer. No problems any temp. Any name brand is good: M1, Castrol Edge, Valvoline SynPower. It's hard to find M1 here, but I hear it's easy to find and affordable there. Lots of Castrol here, and I like Castrol, but it's often expensive for the top end stuff. Hence I got a Valvoline 0w-40 a few weeks ago, good stuff, easy to find and more affordable. But all regions are different with what oils are avaliable. if price wasn't an issue, I'd go Castrol Edge.

But as Bigdaddyeasy said, any 40 will help you. 0/5/10w-40.

 

[Vlaj]

Originally Posted By: Triton_330
Originally Posted By: Vlaj

I tried the Auto-RX for a long time now. It did nothing to reduce or dampen the ticking noise from the solid lifters/tappet.

My understanding now is; the tappets/shims are worn or lose and when the engine warms up, the metal expands and the ticking is gone.

So there must be something that can be added to the oil that will cause put some layer or coat the tappets/shims with it. Then you would not have to wait for the engine to warm up and expand the metal.

I've not use any other additive to the oil other than Auto-Rx. I think it may be time to try something but I just don't know and don't want to take a chance it ruins engine or makes it worse noise, etc.

I will something interesting:

I been using Castrol GTX conventional 5x30 for a long time. Also, been using the Purolator PureONE oil filter.

Now, I am thinking something with the noise could be from filter and pressure....

When I used Motorcraft Oil Filter FL-400S in the past, the ticking noise was worse and even noise lower in the engine. It would still go away after engine warms up but just stopping the engine when shopping and restart, noise is there even though the engine is still warm.

When I use Purolator PureONE, that ticking is not as bad and the deep noise is gone. And the tick is not as bad on restarts.



If I may I make a suggestion...

http://www.amazon.com/Mag-62836-6PK-Synthetic-European-Formula/dp/B0077K8TXG
and
http://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PSL20195-Synthetic-Spin--Filter/dp/B007BXCMIW

That oil and that filter may help to quiet your engine, without the need to add anything extra like Mos2.

~ Triton


Triton, thank you.

In the past I had tried Semi-synthetic oil and it seemed to make the tick worse and it the engine leaked oil much more. That's why i switched back to conventional.
So, not sure if this link for oil is different kind of synthetic for my engine that won't cause more issues.

 

[Triton_330]

Originally Posted By: Vlaj
Triton, thank you.

In the past I had tried Semi-synthetic oil and it seemed to make the tick worse and it the engine leaked oil much more. That's why i switched back to conventional.
So, not sure if this link for oil is different kind of synthetic for my engine that won't cause more issues.

An oil being either conventional, semi-syn, or full synthetic should not make any difference to a ticking noise's actual cause. It's the additives in the oil, and the grade (or incorrectly known as weight) of the oil that will affect the cause of the issue. That being said, synthetic oils have been known to heighten the acoustics of engines. But, the reason I linked you that Mag 1 oil is because of its additives, and its grade. It's a Euro spec 5w-40.

http://www.mag1.com/SpecSheet.ashx?id=feb26b17-c445-4631-ac06-5f688312182f

If you would rather not use synthetic, then I would suggest using Pennzoil conventional (Pennzoil conventional). Many Jeep owners with the notorious ticking/slapping engines swear by Pennzoil, so I see no reason not to give it a try in your Ford.

~ Triton

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Vlaj
Try four ounces of that reddish Marvel Mystery Oil for every quart in your crankcase.