How to stop ticking noise?

[Hethaerto]

Originally Posted By: Vlaj
So, should I also try the 1.5 oz. of Seafoam for each quart of oil first since I have to wait to order the AutoRx anyways?


It normally ships very quickly.

 

[jorton]

I think If the filter were the problem the tapping noise would last only a few seconds because that's how long it takes to refill after the engine is started.

Originally Posted By: Hazmat
Before you go to too much trouble...make sure that all of your spark plugs are tight. A loose spark plug can induce a loud ticking noise like you are talking about. Then once the engine warms up the metal expands and "tightens" the plug making the noise go away.
Another possibility is a bad plug wire (if this car has wires instead of coil packs).

Just a thought...this is a lot easier than changing manifolds and putting in all kinds of additives that you may not need.

Good idea to check plugs and wires.

Originally Posted By: Vlaj
Now I have to deal with the leak issue.

If I use Auto-Rx, couldn't that make the leak worse? That's what I was told by the auto shop today. That if the seals have sludge on them, they are preventing leaks. And if you use a engine cleaner and remove the sludge, the leak worsen or you create new ones..like head gasket, etc?


Do you have good vacuum at the pcv? A cracked or plugged vacuum hose can cause leaking/consumption.

 

[Vlaj]

Yes, I have good vacuum at the pcv. Just replaced all the lines, and pcv. Also, replaced the spark plug wires with OEM and the plugs. All is good on this respect. Engine is clean (at least on the outside) and has been maintained since it was bought in 2000.

 

[ZZman]

I think I agree that it probably needs a valve train adjustment and some shims replaced.

http://mechdb.com/index.php/Ford_Contour_specifications

 

[Sunabozu]

I've got a ticking in my 86 2.9 ford V6, lucas clears it up, keeps the oil pressure up too.

i use lucas, will always use lucas, and weill recomend lucas.

the oil foaming test on this site is pure [censored].

 

[Vlaj]

Originally Posted By: ZZman
I think I agree that it probably needs a valve train adjustment and some shims replaced.

http://mechdb.com/index.php/Ford_Contour_specifications



That's a big job and probably will cost me a lot.

 

[Vlaj]

Originally Posted By: willix
I'm sticking with checking cam/shim clearences. 165,000mi is along time. FORGet about additives.


The 98+ black top has solid lifters with shims. I don't believe they are adjustable.

 

[CATERHAM]

If solid lifters with shims is what you have then they ARE adjustable. It's a routine maintenance item.

 

[Vlaj]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
If solid lifters with shims is what you have then they ARE adjustable. It's a routine maintenance item.


Even with no valve lash?

Then what's the protocol? Is this something I can do? What's the cost to have a tech do it?

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted By: hominid7
Sounds like dirty/gumed up HLA's to me.

I would start by changing the oil and using something cheap, like walmart supertech, and adding a 1/2 bottle of risoline (an entire bottle at once may be a little too much of a shock). I'd run that for 100-200 miles and then change the oil again, using the other 1/2 bottle of risoline and inexpensive oil, run for 500 miles, and change the oil again, back to your motorcraft.

Thicker oil may be counter-productive in this particular situation.

I like the other posters idea of trying MC 5w20 and seeing what that does as well, although with an exisitng leak, it may make it worse. Then again, the risoline may make the leak worse as well. If you dont mind putting a little $$ into the car, getting the leak fixed with new seals would be ideal.



If using Rislone, use the whole bottle in the Contour, they take like six quarts of oil...

Personally, I would run something like a mix of Pennzoil conventional 5w30 with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil for a 3K OCI. Then try an oil that claims some cleaning ability such as Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra or M1 High Mileage...

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted By: Vlaj
Thanks for the replay.

It is a 1999 Contour.

Many of you are suggesting a heavier oil although, I am already using MC 5W30 and not 5W20. So you mean 5W40..something like Rotella T6 5W40,as ZZman suggested?

In addition, I have tried Castrol High Mileage GTX 5W30 on my last oil change. No changes, so I went back to MC 5W30.

What is OCI? Is that the Auto-RX thing?

Do I try the Risoline stuff as hominid suggest?


I wouldn't use a heavier oil in this case, although the Rotella 5W-40 might do some light cleaning...

ARX is a niche product developed to clean without solvents using esters. Some claim it can work miracles if you follow the directions, and can clean better than anything and stop leaks by restoring seals. Others' say it's an over-hyped, expensive product that relies on comparative bash-marketing.

You can decide that for yourself by reading in the additives section...

 

[ZZman]

This might give you an idea: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/19ef...-there-is-valve

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: Vlaj
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
If solid lifters with shims is what you have then they ARE adjustable. It's a routine maintenance item.


Even with no valve lash?

Then what's the protocol? Is this something I can do? What's the cost to have a tech do it?


Firstly, are you sure you do not have hydraulic lifters?

Assuming as you say you do have solid lifters, the lash is adjusted by changing the shims. It usually involves lifting the cam covers and measuring the lash with a feeler gauge under the heal of each cam lobe. This will require turning the engine over by hand. The valves that are out of spec' are noted. The cams are then unbolted, lifted and/or removed, larger or smaller shims are installed under the bucket tappets of the out of spec valves (available from your dealer). The cams are then reinstalled paying particular attention that the cam timing has not inadvertently been affected.
The valve lash is then checked again and if correct, the cam covers are replaced.
Job done.

 

[Vlaj]

Thanks

 

[ottotheclown]

Just turn up the radio, me thinks!

 

[Vlaj]

I had the oil changed and am using conventional Castrol GTX oil with Purolator PureOne oil filter. Added the AutoRx.

Now, I have the load ticking noise all the time. Like taking two spoons and tapping them together. That's what it sounds like.

This is embarrasing riding with this noise.

Why would I have the load ticking all the time now?

 

[ZZman]

Many people report noise when using Auto-RX. Give it a chance to work a little.

You might try a long Hwy run if possible to get it nice and hot and worked in well.

What weight oil are you using?

 

[Vlaj]

I am using 10x30 oil.

 

[Vlaj]

Originally Posted By: ZZman
Many people report noise when using Auto-RX. Give it a chance to work a little.

You might try a long Hwy run if possible to get it nice and hot and worked in well.

What weight oil are you using?


I am using 10x30 oil Castrol GTX.

Also, the Hwy run did nothing. Still ticking all the time now.

 

[Gary Allan]

You may have more when you change the oil too. It's not uncommon. It passes with time.