How to remove oil pan from the block?

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What do you guys used to separate the oil pan from the block? The factory service manual specifically stated not to use a screwdriver. The recommend tool is a special separator from Nissan.
Here is a photo of the pan:
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Thanks for the help!
 
If that pan has a gasket I'm sure you aren't supposed to use RTV. It will clog up your oil pump screen big time.

As stated above a putty knife is good, you'll probably also need a big rubber mallet and a 2x4. A putty knife is good because you can wedge it in there safely, it will snap off before you guoge the block or kink the pan.

Steve
 
If you are going to use RTV, then you need to use a thin coat, and let it cure before you add oil. I am becoming very fond of "the right stuff" rtv (thanks to johnbrowning) for its fast set-up.
 
quote:

Originally posted by srivett:
If that pan has a gasket I'm sure you aren't supposed to use RTV. It will clog up your oil pump screen big time.


Ya thats a whole bunch of RTV on there! Who did that mess?
shocked.gif


I once had a friend who rebuilt a 390 Ford engine....He was so proud untill I told him that your supposed to screw it together and not glue it together!

It's ok to use a small dab of sealent where you suspect that a gasket could leak but to smother the whole thing like that can cause more problems than it fixes.
 
Steve, Chris: No gasket on the pan, just sealant. The photo was taken from a guy on SE-R.net who replaced his lower oil pan.
sbc350gearhead: How fast is the set-up? I am using Ultra Black right now.

Here is what the factory manual said.
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Two more questions. Should I hammer the putty knife on the handle just like using the factory remover? Also, can I use the putty knife to remove the sealant instead of a gasket scrapper?
Thanks for the input.
 
Btw if your pan's off...get yourself a small mirror and do an inspection of the crank, rods, bearings, etc. Everything you can possibly see while its off.

Might as well since you spent the time and energy getting the pan off. Regardless of whether anything is wrong, its fun to do and take photos
smile.gif
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Thanks Babaloo, you asked one of my questions. Please keep us posted as to how things go. If you're successful I'll go the putty knife route too.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Yuk:
Thanks Babaloo, you asked one of my questions. Please keep us posted as to how things go. If you're successful I'll go the putty knife route too.

No, no. Dont use any type of putty knife or screwdriver, unless you want to risk scratching up your mating surface......
This is what I have done, a couple of times, mostly on older land cruiser ranging from 1972-1985.
1. Drain oil. Kind of obvious, but.....
2. Remove all the bolts from the pan.
3. Get a piece of wood, and a bottle jack. Every toy pickup/truck has one, so I'm sure other manufacturers use them as well.
4. Using the inside frame rail, or something else sturdy in the area, wedge the bottle jack and wood if needed between the frame rail and pan.(wood is only used if the jack can not reach both places, use the wood to extend the reach)
5. Apply preasure until the jack stays between the two areas on its own. Go a little tighter after that.
6. Gravity, and the sidways preasure will have the pan off by morning. If oil spills are a concern, I guess you could leave a couple fo bolts in the pan very loose to catch it.
Works for me everytime, with no risk of marring your mating surfaces.
Good luck
Joe
 
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