How to remove harmful silicon from engine?

[ltslimjim]

So, I'm still new to the game, but it's obvious that high amounts of silicon, in the form of just plain old dirt, isn't good for your engine.

Let's say you buy a used vehicle and the engine appears to be clean, no sludge or inordinate amounts of carbon deposits(though possible) and perhaps light discoloration from years of use, but you get a used oil analysis and the Si reading is high, but you know you haven't done any work on the vehicle that would cause for a raise in Si(that is no sealant etc).

How do you go about removing the silicon? Do it before performing extended OCI? A flush additive that you introduce only to idle for 15 minutes before changing the oil? Go to an HD or High Mileage oil for a short interval, for a few short intervals? Don't worry about it and you keep up with maintenance from now on(making sure intake doesn't have a leak/air filter is doing its job)?

 

[tinmanSC]

If you have not done work on the engine then the Si is coming in from the outside. Super old air filter, holes or gaps in air intake, etc... Some additives and off-brand oils used Si as an anti-foaming agent, but if you are using a "normal" oil (one that has other used oil analysis in the used oil analysis section of this board) and no additives then it's not from one of those as Si is not really popular anymore in most lubes. To remove the Si from your engine, you'd need to fix the intake problem, change the oil, and retest to confirm the fix. There may be residual traces of Si in the used oil that says in your engine, but that should be negligible.

 

[electrolover]

+1 repair the air filtration system and change the oil then follow up with a used oil analysis.

while your in there its a good idea to replace the old pcv valve and fuel filter for good measure(not that it has anything to do with high silicone levels)

 

[rg200amp]

Originally Posted By: electrolover
+1 repair the air filtration system and change the oil then follow up with a used oil analysis.

while your in there its a good idea to replace the old pcv valve and fuel filter for good measure(not that it has anything to do with high silicone levels)


Ding!
+1

 

[ltslimjim]

Thanks tinman. I was curious as to an 'if' this happens(Si levels high) 'then' would the following help(Si level lowers dramatically or to accepted norms after _____1 oil change?).

Originally Posted By: electrolover
+1 repair the air filtration system and change the oil then follow up with a used oil analysis.

while your in there its a good idea to replace the old pcv valve and fuel filter for good measure(not that it has anything to do with high silicone levels)


I may have small cracks in the intake tube between the air intake box and the throttle body/intake manifold on my Civic actually.

It's the part that 'scrunchies' when you remove the piece in question from the airbox, so the plastic gives and the tube can move out of the way? I don't think I have other issues anywhere else but possibly there. The cracks are microscopic when back-pressure is applied and I only notice them with the naked eye when this section is 'relaxed'(removed from between where is connects to at the air filter box). Couldn't find a replacement on Majestic Honda's site and not sure if the dealer has any back stocked still or can even be ordered if I had to get a replacement intake tube. I'd imagine a junkyard car of the same year as similar 'cracking' at the location in question.

BTW, since you brought up fuel filter. I replaced it when the car was purchased at 230,000(probably with whatever Autozone carried) and have since(17,000 miles, 1 1/2 years) put a lot of fuel system cleaner through to try and clean things up. Should I go ahead and replace the fuel filter again?

 

[electrolover]

its not a bad idea to replace it again. with all those cleaners its likely to be full of rust that was cleaned out of the tank. i think some rec 15k on the fuel and air filters, i think you could go a bit longer than that with quality filters tho.
also completely off topic: see if your car has a cabin filter. with summer coming up ac works alot better with a clean filter. some hondas have them and some dont....

if you cant find an oe intake tube the "Texas" fix is duct tape!! rap the sucker so it dont leak. its better than cracks anyway right?

 

[ltslimjim]

lol, it's just that they are cracks in the 'well' of the section in question; not exposed much if at all, to to the engine compartment. Probably enough to allow in dust, if relaxed, but it's got constant back-pressure while in place. Since I'm already this far into it, I'm going to see where Si is in my first UOA, on my next run I'll probably be either changing my air filter/taping the tube to compare results. I did have my VCG replaced, but don't know if the mech used any sealant. I'll be asking them about that.

Good point about potential rust problems and going ahead to replace the FF. The fuel tank filler neck has a smidge of rust forming at the base of the spout, FWIW.

Off topic again, do you know if there is a recommended brand FF for Civic's as a fav? I was thinking of either Wix FF or Purolator. I forget all brands available off-hand, but will re-check on RockAuto.

 

[electrolover]

im not really sure but you can never go wrong with a wix or purolator

 

[ltslimjim]

I looked under my oil fill cap again today, and I didn't like that the outer walls inside look to have a thin layer of grime/light soot like layer, not clean metal.

I'm considering something. I have 1 quart of AFE Mobil 1 0w30 remaining from a 5-Quart jug. I was thinking about mixing that with 2 Qts Rotella T6; 5w-40 and for my last 1/2 quart use MMO(3.5 quart refill w/ filter) and a P1 oil filter. I'd imagine I'd still be on the thick side of 30, but if I lose any oil I could add another 1/2 quart of MMO.

Do you think that run described for 3,000 miles would clean me up some? I don't want to have to resort to Kreen or an aggressive cleaning. I have used Amsoil Engine Flush once, before this current fill of AMSOIL Signature Series. I really don't want to extend my interval out to 10,000 until I can get the engine cleaner. I'll be using the Power Foam again before this next oil change for top end cleaning.

 

[electrolover]

i think you could run that mix with out any problems.


yeah, i totally agree with ya about cleaning it up before going 10k drains. MMO is a slow cleaner tho i would honestly rec PU and kreen because thats what i had the best results with.

 

[ltslimjim]

Okay, let's say I scrap the idea of using MMO on the cleanup interval(I already purchased the P1 filter with AAP codes, and I got the replacement Fuel Filter(also Puro):

My thoughts on using MMO was that I would be thicker than 'I would like' running T6, but I was willing to try it for the cleaning abilities of a HDEO. I don't need to purchase by the gal etc, since I have a quart of Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 to burn(and I want to rid myself of it lol).

I want to avoid Kreen as this point, but if this next interval doesn't clean me up I may do that. Would you say 3 quarts of Pennzoil Ultra / Pennzoil Platinum with the M1 quart(I only need another 2 1/2 Qts, will top off with remaining of 3rd Qt) OR the M1 Qt with T6? Would you say no to MMO for 3,000 all together then?

Thanks for the convo, tips.

 

[electrolover]

i would run the mmo with either PP, PU or T6. they are all good cleaners and with mmo you will get results. a 3k MMO run is a great idea!


ok now this is completely off topic but i have had good luck with PP in my wifes car. we ran 3 ocis at 3k and it looked like this when we were done

 

[electrolover]

when this was taken it had never had a cleaner put in it. the first 50k were with QS next 50k were with Pennzoil Conventional and then 10k with PP

 

[ltslimjim]

I've definitely read over your experience before. I may just use PU or PP with the MMO. I feel kinda weird going up a grade to 5w-40 T6. I wanted to try that the most, though, and figured by mixing with MMO/AFE 0w30 I could achieve a thinner grade than the 40.

If I did use the T6, isn't it safe for PCMO, even though spec'd for trucks etc? I mean I know it has API SM, ILSAC GF-4 certs, but it doesn't mention anything about Honda recommendation. Only VW, for PCMO that I can recall off hand.

 

[rslifkin]

As long as the engine isn't bothered by a 5W-40, T6 should be fine in it. It's fine to use in gas engines, unless it requires some specific spec that T6 doesn't meet. Your Honda shouldn't require anything fancy, so I don't see an issue using T6.

 

[electrolover]

alot of people use T6 with mmo in pcmo apps with no problems, the mmo will thin it down. i say go for it if its what you want to do. it couldn't hurt anything

 

[ltslimjim]

Okay, I'll see what T6 will do with the MMO and my quart of Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 for a 3,000 cleanup interval.

Last chance for recommending PU or PP over T6!