How to pull this fuse?

[supton]

The upper blue one that is missing its top.

Alternator decided quit on me. The 5A "ALT-S" is fine, but I noticed this 100A fuse which makes me think it might be inline. Durn thing won't come out, making me wonder if it's a corroded wire. [On the good side, now that I snapped the top off, I measure 12V on the fuse itself.]

 

[eljefino]

It gets bolted to from the underneath.

Yours looks good, BTW. Did you check for +12V on the alt stud?

My 2000 camry V6 shut down pretty much all non-essential electrics with that fuse blown. You'd know.

 

[supton]

Ah, bolted. Good thing I didn't gorilla on it. Would like to not mess with it if it seems fine (looks fine to me, but wanted to check for bad contacts).

Everything seems to be working, power seats etc. 12.5V on the battery, 11.9V when running. Have to check alt stud next.

I think it was fine yesterday (drove 100 miles) but it did stall on me Thurs when idling in park.

 

[eljefino]

Does your battery light work with key on, engine off?

 

[supton]

Yep, light is on, key on engine off.

Already going sideways on me--connector is breaking apart with finger pressure. Trying to rush this along as wife headed out to the city and could get parts for me. But starting to look like I might need some junkyard parts to wrap up.

 

[supton]

Looks like a bad brush. It's worn down, and no tension against the slip ring by the looks of it. The ring is worn a bit too, and that's not helping I bet. Bearings are fine so I suspect I'm best off trying to find a set of brushes.

I dare say, sitting next to the exhaust manifold is not helping things out...

 

[supton]

Went to remove the alt, and found the tensioner all goobered up. Last guy in here must have put that block on backwards.

Oh wait--I did the timing belt two years ago... nevermind, couldn't have been me... oops.

 

[supton]

And the battery light is off when the alternator is removed. [Word to the wise: raise the windows before disconnecting the battery and removing stuff.]

 

[53' Stude]

Nice write up

Let us know when it's fixed

Thank You

 

[eljefino]

The tensioner was in backwards on my car too! I think the boyfriend of the seller goobered this all up.

Had a new used alternator but he blew that 100 amp fuse. Jacking screw was flipped and there wasn't enough tension on the belt. It didn't squeal because there was no load on the alternator because of the master fuse.

Then they said, well that's enough of that!

Good work on the brushes. You could probably retension the springs to get through the weekend.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted by eljefino
Good work on the brushes. You could probably retension the springs to get through the weekend.

Wife wants me to take a trip, destination is about 100 miles from home. I think I'll take a different vehicle instead! 'tis the reason I have N+1 vehicles. But good point on just retensioning the springs, that'd probably be good enough if I had to move things around or a short trip.

 

[supton]

Hrm.

First I bought the wrong brushes; that was a two day waste. Ordered the right one. Put in. No change. Take out, flip over, maybe they can physically go in either way but only work one way. Nope. Bad diode? Haven't come across a good link (yet) on how to test those (or the regulator). Starting to wonder about giving in and getting a reman.

On the good side I can now get the alternator in and out in about 10 minutes...

 

[supton]

Threw in the towel and put in a Duralast. I shopped a bit and the regulator is $40, but might take another week to show up... just not worth it. Not for something that I can swap in 10 minutes at any Autozone (I keep a set of tools in the car).