I know is seems easy but I've never done it before so what’s the best/safest way to bleed the brakes in a car?
How to bleed brakes?
- Thread starter J_Myler
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JHZR2
Staff member
IMO, the easiest way is to get a pressurized speed bleeder, pressurize the reservoir, then open each bleeder valve.
There is a product called the speed bleeder, which is a self-sealing bleeder valve, which you crack, then pump the pedal multiple times. it beats the traditional wrench and pump method, which absolutely needs 2 people, but I think the pressure method is the best.
There is a product called the speed bleeder, which is a self-sealing bleeder valve, which you crack, then pump the pedal multiple times. it beats the traditional wrench and pump method, which absolutely needs 2 people, but I think the pressure method is the best.
+1 For the Speed Bleeder valves. However; if you want to do the two man try. #1 16 oz of Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid. #2 Bleeder wrench (use a box type wrench & NOT a crescents etc). #3 Jack and jack stands. #4 Turkey baster. #5 empty bottle & a 1/8 inch ID by 20 inch long piece of flexible plastic tubing. Now the fun. Jack up car, remove wheels, empty master cylinder with the baster and toss old fluid, refill master cylinder with fresh brake fluid. Attach tubing to the caliper bleeder valve. Other end of tubing in a container. Crack open the bleeder valve about 1/4 turn and have a person SLOWLY press the brake peddle to the floor and hold while tightening the bleeder valve. Repeat this sequence until the brake fluid runs clear. Repeat on each caliper. WARNING: Keep the master cylinder topped up with brake fluid- you will have much grief if you don't. Vehicles have a preferred bleeding sequence and since you did not mentioned your vehicle, I will not guess. A word of caution- some bleeder valves can be hard to open the first time and a sharp rap on the end with a small hammer can help- do not force these little valves or you can snap them off. Hope this helps and I'm sure other will add additional information. Ed
I was always told to pump, hold, crack bleeder, then tighten, release pedal and repeat.
if you have stuborn bleeders, I always hit them with PB blaster or even now CRC Freeze off. I spray it, hit it with the propane torch, then spray it again. I've gotten all four bleeder screws on a 1971 Ford Mustang free doing this
if you have stuborn bleeders, I always hit them with PB blaster or even now CRC Freeze off. I spray it, hit it with the propane torch, then spray it again. I've gotten all four bleeder screws on a 1971 Ford Mustang free doing this
What kind of vehicle?
I second the pressure bleeder idea. I have a Motive Pressure Bleeder with a GM specific adapter for my Saturn.
I suck out the contents of the brake fluid reservoir with a turkey baster and refill with new fluid from a sealed container. Next, I screw the adapter onto the reservoir. The remainder of the new brake fluid gets poured into the Motive power bleeder. Then, I pump the Motive power bleeder up to 20 psi. Before I go to the bleeder screws, I go to the driver seat and push the pedal down halfway (repeatedly) until the pedal becomes rock hard. Then, I go to the individual calipers/wheel cylinders, loosen the screws one at a time, and allow the old fluid to escape. I also tap the calipers while the fluid is draining with a rubber mallet to dislodge any trapped bubbles.
This method only works if there is not a significant amount of air in the system. If you can use it in your situation, it works extremely well. I have been able to flush/bleed a car in under 10 minutes.
I second the pressure bleeder idea. I have a Motive Pressure Bleeder with a GM specific adapter for my Saturn.
I suck out the contents of the brake fluid reservoir with a turkey baster and refill with new fluid from a sealed container. Next, I screw the adapter onto the reservoir. The remainder of the new brake fluid gets poured into the Motive power bleeder. Then, I pump the Motive power bleeder up to 20 psi. Before I go to the bleeder screws, I go to the driver seat and push the pedal down halfway (repeatedly) until the pedal becomes rock hard. Then, I go to the individual calipers/wheel cylinders, loosen the screws one at a time, and allow the old fluid to escape. I also tap the calipers while the fluid is draining with a rubber mallet to dislodge any trapped bubbles.
This method only works if there is not a significant amount of air in the system. If you can use it in your situation, it works extremely well. I have been able to flush/bleed a car in under 10 minutes.
Suck the old fluid out of the reservoir, then refill it with fresh fluid.
You can simply open the bleeders [one at a time] and let it drain. A hose will help to direct the fluid into a container. Keep the reservoir full, and leave the cap loose for this.
You can simply open the bleeders [one at a time] and let it drain. A hose will help to direct the fluid into a container. Keep the reservoir full, and leave the cap loose for this.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Suck the old fluid out of the reservoir, then refill it with fresh fluid.
You can simply open the bleeders [one at a time] and let it drain. A hose will help to direct the fluid into a container. Keep the reservoir full, and leave the cap loose for this.
That would take a very, very long time.
Suck the old fluid out of the reservoir, then refill it with fresh fluid.
You can simply open the bleeders [one at a time] and let it drain. A hose will help to direct the fluid into a container. Keep the reservoir full, and leave the cap loose for this.
That would take a very, very long time.
I tried speed bleeders once and was not impressed. The fit/finish was not good (steel burrs). I decided to return them. Bleeders for a Honda Accord come w/ 3/8" nut size instead of 10mm, a recipe for a rounded bleeder nut. The thread sealant makes it difficult to "feel" when bleeder is seated, further complicating their use. I did keep the nice rubber surgical tube they furnish for bleeding. It is handy to attach to bleed plug and direct pressurized fluid to a catch can.
Pressurized bleeding is nice, but requires a custom cap for each different vehicle. Traditional pump/bleed procedure requires nothing but some help to operate the brake pedal.
Regards
Pressurized bleeding is nice, but requires a custom cap for each different vehicle. Traditional pump/bleed procedure requires nothing but some help to operate the brake pedal.
Regards
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I use a vacuum pump brake bleeder. Works great. I needed to get some smaller diameter tubing to get a tight seal though. Before I did that, it was sucking a lot of air.
FWIW it’s a 1990 Mazda protégé. Front disks and rear drums.
It’s a 1990 Mazda protégé. Front disks and rear drums.
You shouldn't need to bleed the brakes,unless you replace components or flush the fluid.
The vacuum bleeders work well.
I just use Teflon tape on the bleeder threads to get a better seal.
The other important factor is getting a tight fit on the connector and bleeder.
Most people make the mistake of adding fluid to the reservoir thinking the fluid is low,when in reality,the brakes are wearing normally.
When you install new pads,the fluid get pushed back into the reservoir.
My other secret is to remove the wear indicators when replacing the brake pads.
These pieces of metal sticking out from the pads,makes that squealing noise when your pads get half worn,grooving the rotors in the process.
As the brakes wear,and the fluid goes down,the brake light comes on telling me it's time to replace the pads.
Keeps the rotors in good condition.
The vacuum bleeders work well.
I just use Teflon tape on the bleeder threads to get a better seal.
The other important factor is getting a tight fit on the connector and bleeder.
Most people make the mistake of adding fluid to the reservoir thinking the fluid is low,when in reality,the brakes are wearing normally.
When you install new pads,the fluid get pushed back into the reservoir.
My other secret is to remove the wear indicators when replacing the brake pads.
These pieces of metal sticking out from the pads,makes that squealing noise when your pads get half worn,grooving the rotors in the process.
As the brakes wear,and the fluid goes down,the brake light comes on telling me it's time to replace the pads.
Keeps the rotors in good condition.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Suck the old fluid out of the reservoir, then refill it with fresh fluid.
You can simply open the bleeders [one at a time] and let it drain. A hose will help to direct the fluid into a container. Keep the reservoir full, and leave the cap loose for this.
That would take a very, very long time.
I gravity bleed whenever I have the time to wait and is my preferred method for doing flushes. However, it takes A LOT less time if you open all the bleeders at the same time. Why bother doing it one at a time? I fill the reservoir and close of the bleeders as each begins to run clear. You'll have each line done in the time it would have taken for the longest if you do it one at a time.
Calvin
BTW - I usually cheat with the calipers and only flush out of the banjo bolts instead. I figure why tempt fate with rounding/breaking the bleeder caps when I can use the more durable banjo bolts instead?
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Suck the old fluid out of the reservoir, then refill it with fresh fluid.
You can simply open the bleeders [one at a time] and let it drain. A hose will help to direct the fluid into a container. Keep the reservoir full, and leave the cap loose for this.
That would take a very, very long time.
I gravity bleed whenever I have the time to wait and is my preferred method for doing flushes. However, it takes A LOT less time if you open all the bleeders at the same time. Why bother doing it one at a time? I fill the reservoir and close of the bleeders as each begins to run clear. You'll have each line done in the time it would have taken for the longest if you do it one at a time.
Calvin
BTW - I usually cheat with the calipers and only flush out of the banjo bolts instead. I figure why tempt fate with rounding/breaking the bleeder caps when I can use the more durable banjo bolts instead?
Critic - Gravity bleeding is a good way to do it by yourself.
It is safe and does a good job.
But it does not take a long time. A bit longer than other methods, but no outrageous or inordinate amounts of time are needed.
And pedal type 2 man bleeding accounts for the time of TWO people, which can't be discounted. Betcha didn't think of that!
Pedal bleeding does not get all the crud out, BTW. The nooks and crannies are still going to be somewhat dirty, if they were before.
It is safe and does a good job.
But it does not take a long time. A bit longer than other methods, but no outrageous or inordinate amounts of time are needed.
And pedal type 2 man bleeding accounts for the time of TWO people, which can't be discounted. Betcha didn't think of that!
Pedal bleeding does not get all the crud out, BTW. The nooks and crannies are still going to be somewhat dirty, if they were before.
Kestas
Staff member
Since it's hard to find good help around my house (girlfriend disappears and goes shopping when I work on cars), I use a one-man system. With a clear line attached to bleeder screw, I crack open the bleeder just a bit and go to town on the pedal. When I work the pedal, there's enough pressure to force the fluid out, yet it's choked off enough to prevent slurping too much fluid back when I release the pedal. Works like a charm for me.
Do you have to do anything special with ABS? I remember reading in a service manual for an old car that the system was pressurized and you had to de-pressurize it before bleeding.
depends on ABS system. The 3 channel unit im my RMS requires no special thing to do with the ABS. The 4 channel unit in my subaru just requires that you bleed the system at the bleeder valves on the ABS, then follow the proper sequence to bleed the wheels.
Kestas - I'm glad your method works for you, but it can't be recommended .
The odds are way against this method working right.
The odds are way against this method working right.
When you gravity bleed the brakes, does the pedal fall to the floor on its own?
Kestas
Staff member
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Kestas - I'm glad your method works for you, but it can't be recommended .
The odds are way against this method working right.
You're wrong. I've used this method a dozen times already. I've proved to myself and my home audience that it works. Why can't it be recommended?
Kestas - I'm glad your method works for you, but it can't be recommended .
The odds are way against this method working right.
You're wrong. I've used this method a dozen times already. I've proved to myself and my home audience that it works. Why can't it be recommended?
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