Brake pedal pressure question

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I've got a bit of a problem with my explorer brake pressure. I just got out of my silverado and into the explorer and the brake pedal is so bad.

I've realized that it takes a lot more push to get the explorer to stop, and once it's stopped, I can push the pedal to the floor relatively easy, unlike in my silverado and safari, where when the vehicle has stopped, pushing the pedal any further is difficult.

I've put new pads and rotors on the explorer in the past few months so it's not just poor pads not stopping it. I think something is wrong with the brake pressure's or maybe the fluid needs to be changed out? Maybe just bled? I'm sure the fluid is original from '97 but it doesn't look that bad. I don't have a problem with replacing it if it will give me the proper pedal feel like my other vehicles.

I've bled brakes before manually with 2 people but I've never replaced brake fluid before. Is there a specific procedure? I would assume just open all the 4 valves, and let it gravity drain? Then fill up the reservoir and bleed the 4 in the proper order? I don't have any special vacuum tools or anything, so it would have to be gravity drained and manually purged of air with 2 people.

Any thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Brake fluid should be flushed at a minimum of every 3 years, the brake fluid absorbs water, so the longer it is in the more corrosion and brake fade you get, and a spongy pedal.

I would say your brake fluid needs a full swap, put in some ATE typ 200 or ATE super blue (same thing, except one is blue color and one is amber) then don't worry for another 3 years.

This is the basic break down of how to do it with a power bleeder, something you should invest in, you only have to buy it once for about 40 bucks, it makes the job a breeze and you can do it alone.

On the plus side to that, you don't have 2 dudes in a driveway shouting, UP, DOWN, UP, DOWN, shouting things like that makes your neighbors wonder what goes down at your house
lol.gif

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/9/318/article/Brake_Fluid_Flush_Made_Easy.html
 
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Bang off your rear drums and see how it's going back there. Adjustment could be out. Also pull your caliper guide pins, sliders and whatnots and see that they're all free.

I'd look the hydraulics over stem to stern for pinched tubes, funky rubber hoses. You have two contradictory symptoms with the hard pedal and soft one.
 
Eljefino covered it...

If it were me, I would:
Bleed and flush lines, refill with Motul RBF600 (my brake fluid of choice)
Inspect/Replace brake lines (braided stainless steel on all my cars)
Inspect Calipers
Replace guide pins (replaced stock ones w bronze on 325/740...big difference for tiny part)
Check master cylinder and all lines (a loose or cracked hose could cause this)

Of course, it is possible that the recent brake job was done improperly, as I have seen many, many incompetent (not to mention overpriced!) brake jobs out of "chain repair places" such as Midas, CarX, etc.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Bang off your rear drums and see how it's going back there. Adjustment could be out. Also pull your caliper guide pins, sliders and whatnots and see that they're all free.

I'd look the hydraulics over stem to stern for pinched tubes, funky rubber hoses. You have two contradictory symptoms with the hard pedal and soft one.


Really good advice.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I forgot to add that I replaced both the front and rear pads and rotors, checked over everything(except brake lines and fluid), lubed slide pins, etc. I would like to think I did everything right as many times as I've done it. It's really a pretty simple job.

I picked up a 32oz jug of valvoline syn dot3/4, I couldn't find the motul anywhere! I figured any new fluid will be better than what's in there now.

Also, a question about changing out the fluid. Ford specs a part to be used on the 4wheel abs system to purge the air from the hcu but if I keep the reservoir topped up and no air gets in, should I need this? I don't really feel like going to ford for anything.

Thanks again guys, Justin.
 
Unless there was external leak, I'm yet to see a sinking pedal that wasn't a bad master cylinder...
 
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