You could make a funky intake manifold with a carb for each cylinder, and cut the throttle to one at a time...
How to best improve fuel economy with '76 Pickup?
- Thread starter Big O Dave
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I like the electric pusher-trailer... but I'll be followed by drug addicts...
The Q-Jet is an excellent carb, and FI might not be much of an improvement (except cold starting, etc). The Q-Jet can be tuned better with a pair of wideband O2 sensors and jetting/rods adjusted accordingly. Same for the distributor (I'd have one of the MSD pieces myself). I really like the work you've already done, and I think that "supertuning" would be the most fun as well as the most cost-effective.
I've a friend with a 5,250-lb Imperial (V8-440) pretty well stock but for a dual exhaust, and he sees 16 mpg at 70 mph. My old 4,740-lb Chrysler (V8-383) got 17-19 mpg at 70. Granted, they were more aerodynamic and had gearing at 2.94 or a little less, but the weight problem is the same for cam gearing, etc. Around town that gearing was a hindrance. But the fuel and spark delivery were dead on for thirty plus year old engines.
I'd continue to tune it and look through other details (drum brake drag, 4-wheel alignment, radiator fan shrouding/air management; perfect choke operation) to see if some improvements aren't forthcoming.
I've a friend with a 5,250-lb Imperial (V8-440) pretty well stock but for a dual exhaust, and he sees 16 mpg at 70 mph. My old 4,740-lb Chrysler (V8-383) got 17-19 mpg at 70. Granted, they were more aerodynamic and had gearing at 2.94 or a little less, but the weight problem is the same for cam gearing, etc. Around town that gearing was a hindrance. But the fuel and spark delivery were dead on for thirty plus year old engines.
I'd continue to tune it and look through other details (drum brake drag, 4-wheel alignment, radiator fan shrouding/air management; perfect choke operation) to see if some improvements aren't forthcoming.
the biggest improvements in mpg in the last 30 years has come from better gearing. that's why the corvette and others came out w/ a 6 speed manual; double overdrive keeps the rpms low and meets mpg requirements. it wasn't to get a higher top speed.
I'd echo what others have said, get rid of that TH350, get a 200 or 700 4 speed hydro. I'd keep the 4.10 gears because of the 31" tires. not one other thing will make as big a difference.
I'd echo what others have said, get rid of that TH350, get a 200 or 700 4 speed hydro. I'd keep the 4.10 gears because of the 31" tires. not one other thing will make as big a difference.
Gear Vendors underdrive?
http://www.gearvendors.com/
http://www.gearvendors.com/
Great advice in the posts above. Optimized jetting and ignition advance cruve can make a big difference. With the 4.10 gears a clutch fan would make a big difference as well if you don't have one already installed. Even if you already have one make sure it is intended for the RPM's you're running. A lot of the old trucks had different fan clutches available depending on the gear ratio.
Does your MSD HEI have vacuum advance? If so, have you ever experimented with more or less vacuum advance? Also make sure the vacuum canister is appropriate for a stock camshaft. A lot of aftermarket distributors are setup with a performance camshaft (and low vacuum) in mind.
Does your MSD HEI have vacuum advance? If so, have you ever experimented with more or less vacuum advance? Also make sure the vacuum canister is appropriate for a stock camshaft. A lot of aftermarket distributors are setup with a performance camshaft (and low vacuum) in mind.
The place where you are going to see your greatest gains are probably at a cruising speed on the highway: there are efficiencies to be gained around town but you are still moving a big, heavy truck with a thirsty V8.
The OD tranny/differential ratio swap (if needed) is probably going to be a whole lot cheaper (if done right) than a Gear Vendors unit. When co$t is no object one can probably get 20-23 mpg on the highway with a big truck and a big motor, but where practical considerations are in play spending around a grand (?) for a HD overdive tranny is where your biggest bang for the buck is going to occur: just be aware that it'll take a decade or so for you to save enough gas to pay for the expense.
Cheers!
The OD tranny/differential ratio swap (if needed) is probably going to be a whole lot cheaper (if done right) than a Gear Vendors unit. When co$t is no object one can probably get 20-23 mpg on the highway with a big truck and a big motor, but where practical considerations are in play spending around a grand (?) for a HD overdive tranny is where your biggest bang for the buck is going to occur: just be aware that it'll take a decade or so for you to save enough gas to pay for the expense.
Cheers!
Originally Posted By: battyice
Great advice in the posts above. Optimized jetting and ignition advance cruve can make a big difference. With the 4.10 gears a clutch fan would make a big difference as well if you don't have one already installed. Even if you already have one make sure it is intended for the RPM's you're running. A lot of the old trucks had different fan clutches available depending on the gear ratio.
Does your MSD HEI have vacuum advance? If so, have you ever experimented with more or less vacuum advance? Also make sure the vacuum canister is appropriate for a stock camshaft. A lot of aftermarket distributors are setup with a performance camshaft (and low vacuum) in mind.
Thanks, EVERYONE, for your comments and suggestions!
battyice, it's not as common for people to think about fan clutches in connection with fuel economy, so I appreciate this comment. Yes, I do have a fan clutch, and it is appropriate for the gearing in my truck.
Regarding the MSD HEI, it does have a vacuum advance. I have not experimented with more or less vacuum advance (mechanical yes, vacuum no). The distributor is actually a remanufactured stock HEI with a MSD HEI kit installed on it (cap, rotor, in-cap coil, appropriate distributor gear for a steel roller cam and module). Because its a stock distributor I imagine that the vacuum canister is intended for a stock cam.
Is it worth it to go to a full-on MSD distributor (in other words, will it yield any tangible improvements over my existing setup)?
Great advice in the posts above. Optimized jetting and ignition advance cruve can make a big difference. With the 4.10 gears a clutch fan would make a big difference as well if you don't have one already installed. Even if you already have one make sure it is intended for the RPM's you're running. A lot of the old trucks had different fan clutches available depending on the gear ratio.
Does your MSD HEI have vacuum advance? If so, have you ever experimented with more or less vacuum advance? Also make sure the vacuum canister is appropriate for a stock camshaft. A lot of aftermarket distributors are setup with a performance camshaft (and low vacuum) in mind.
Thanks, EVERYONE, for your comments and suggestions!
battyice, it's not as common for people to think about fan clutches in connection with fuel economy, so I appreciate this comment. Yes, I do have a fan clutch, and it is appropriate for the gearing in my truck.
Regarding the MSD HEI, it does have a vacuum advance. I have not experimented with more or less vacuum advance (mechanical yes, vacuum no). The distributor is actually a remanufactured stock HEI with a MSD HEI kit installed on it (cap, rotor, in-cap coil, appropriate distributor gear for a steel roller cam and module). Because its a stock distributor I imagine that the vacuum canister is intended for a stock cam.
Is it worth it to go to a full-on MSD distributor (in other words, will it yield any tangible improvements over my existing setup)?
Originally Posted By: Big O Dave
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
That in combination with a top notch electronic distributor would give some serious fuel economy gains.
Drew, I have a MSD HEI with a MSD coil and module, plus MSD ignition wires (I like MSD, I guess
). Is this what you're talking about?
(JB, I was wondering when you were gonna show up!
)
do you also have an msd 5 or 6 box or just the hei module?
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
That in combination with a top notch electronic distributor would give some serious fuel economy gains.
Drew, I have a MSD HEI with a MSD coil and module, plus MSD ignition wires (I like MSD, I guess
(JB, I was wondering when you were gonna show up!
do you also have an msd 5 or 6 box or just the hei module?
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Inflate your tires to maximum sidewall. hoo-eee!!
Well, you live in a warm climate, so it might not matter much, but insall block heater and use it every night. That will increase your cold start mileage. When it is cool outside cover part of your radiator. Turn off your engine whenever you stop at a stoplight.
Originally Posted By: TheTanSedan
The Q-Jet is an excellent carb, and FI might not be much of an improvement (except cold starting, etc). The Q-Jet can be tuned better with a pair of wideband O2 sensors and jetting/rods adjusted accordingly. Same for the distributor (I'd have one of the MSD pieces myself). I really like the work you've already done, and I think that "supertuning" would be the most fun as well as the most cost-effective.
I've a friend with a 5,250-lb Imperial (V8-440) pretty well stock but for a dual exhaust, and he sees 16 mpg at 70 mph. My old 4,740-lb Chrysler (V8-383) got 17-19 mpg at 70. Granted, they were more aerodynamic and had gearing at 2.94 or a little less, but the weight problem is the same for cam gearing, etc. Around town that gearing was a hindrance. But the fuel and spark delivery were dead on for thirty plus year old engines.
I'd continue to tune it and look through other details (drum brake drag, 4-wheel alignment, radiator fan shrouding/air management; perfect choke operation) to see if some improvements aren't forthcoming.
Look into wide-band tuning on a dyno, seriously. And park a vacuum gauge on the dash (Autometer) and read up on how to use it. If you want to have fun, then look into a gauge that reads fuel consumption as well. And -- no kidding -- an air speed indicator to round out the trio. Use them all, well, and THEN an auto O/D trans will work for you.
The Q-Jet is an excellent carb, and FI might not be much of an improvement (except cold starting, etc). The Q-Jet can be tuned better with a pair of wideband O2 sensors and jetting/rods adjusted accordingly. Same for the distributor (I'd have one of the MSD pieces myself). I really like the work you've already done, and I think that "supertuning" would be the most fun as well as the most cost-effective.
I've a friend with a 5,250-lb Imperial (V8-440) pretty well stock but for a dual exhaust, and he sees 16 mpg at 70 mph. My old 4,740-lb Chrysler (V8-383) got 17-19 mpg at 70. Granted, they were more aerodynamic and had gearing at 2.94 or a little less, but the weight problem is the same for cam gearing, etc. Around town that gearing was a hindrance. But the fuel and spark delivery were dead on for thirty plus year old engines.
I'd continue to tune it and look through other details (drum brake drag, 4-wheel alignment, radiator fan shrouding/air management; perfect choke operation) to see if some improvements aren't forthcoming.
Look into wide-band tuning on a dyno, seriously. And park a vacuum gauge on the dash (Autometer) and read up on how to use it. If you want to have fun, then look into a gauge that reads fuel consumption as well. And -- no kidding -- an air speed indicator to round out the trio. Use them all, well, and THEN an auto O/D trans will work for you.
Originally Posted By: meep
in order of greatest effectiveness to least
1. 4 spd trans with lockup converter
2. 3.x gearing
3. consider slimmer tires
4. syn fluids in driveline
5. EFI
6. (dreaming) Throttle-based/load based cutoff to 4 injectors to allow cylinder deac during cruise to allow more open throttle/reduce pumping losses/greater efficency
7. Drive it to nearest Toyota dealership. Invoke Cash-for-Clunkers. Trade for a new Prius!
There, that's got to be the most useful answer yet. . .
in order of greatest effectiveness to least
1. 4 spd trans with lockup converter
2. 3.x gearing
3. consider slimmer tires
4. syn fluids in driveline
5. EFI
6. (dreaming) Throttle-based/load based cutoff to 4 injectors to allow cylinder deac during cruise to allow more open throttle/reduce pumping losses/greater efficency
7. Drive it to nearest Toyota dealership. Invoke Cash-for-Clunkers. Trade for a new Prius!
There, that's got to be the most useful answer yet. . .
turn it off at stoplights
You could sell you current engine/transmission and buy a late model camaro/corvette LT1 engine and transmission. It would be a heck of a project but not too expensive once you sell your current stuff. It would be even cheaper if you went with a late model truck engine instead of the camaro or corvette engine, but I doubt you would go that route since your current setup seems to be more towards performance.
I shopped ebay for prices and you could get a mid 90's LT1 and transmission for approx $2000.
Plus, how cool would it be to pop the hood and see a late model corvette engine in there...
I shopped ebay for prices and you could get a mid 90's LT1 and transmission for approx $2000.
Plus, how cool would it be to pop the hood and see a late model corvette engine in there...
Originally Posted By: ekpolk
7. Drive it to nearest Toyota dealership. Invoke Cash-for-Clunkers. Trade for a new Prius!
There, that's got to be the most useful answer yet. . .
YOU are a very naughty administrator, ek! Off to your room, RIGHT NOW!
7. Drive it to nearest Toyota dealership. Invoke Cash-for-Clunkers. Trade for a new Prius!
There, that's got to be the most useful answer yet. . .
YOU are a very naughty administrator, ek! Off to your room, RIGHT NOW!
Muah, ha, ha. . .
Originally Posted By: Aldaris
turn it off at stoplights
My car does that automatically.
turn it off at stoplights
My car does that automatically.
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