VVTi Rattle, best replacement for intake camshaft sprocket?

[lube_n00b]

My partner has a 2009 Toyota Corolla. It has the infamous VVTi rattle. There are a lot of options for replacement on this part, but I don't want to buy a camshaft gear that will inevitably rattle again.

Would the OEM replacement be the best option? It definitely costs more but if it's engineered to fix this problem I don't mind the extra pennies for it.
Or would an aftermarket by Gates or SMP be better in the long run?

There isn't too much information on the camshaft sprockets themselves being improved by Toyota's replacement OEM part. But I'm aware the locking pin hole is too small and that's what causes it. I've given the car 4000-5000 mile regular oil(full syn) changes so I'm not sure if the pin itself is seized, but my guess is it wouldn't be.

To remedy the issue, I've been cranking the starter to build up oil pressure in the gear itself so it doesn't rattle itself apart. But I don't like the odds of doing this long term for the starter. Thanks.

 

[atikovi]

I don't want to buy a camshaft gear that will inevitably rattle again.

Assuming it's the original gear, do you expect her to keep the car another 14 years?

 

[lube_n00b]

Assuming it's the original gear, do you expect her to keep the car another 14 years?

I'm going to assume it's unlikely she'll keep it that long.

 

[atikovi]

If at least a few years, OEM, especially for just a few cents more.

 

[dfarr67]

What kills them- poor maintenance?

 

[lube_n00b]

What kills them- poor maintenance?

Manufacturing defect, but bad maintenance can speed it up. I'm guessing on the maintenance here because we bought it used at 80k miles and it started occurring shortly afterwards.

 

[The Critic]

What kills them- poor maintenance?

Defect. OE one works fine, fairly easy to do without timing cover removal.

 

[Oillover]

What kills them- poor maintenance?

Bingo!

Very common problem on Honda, Hyundai etc vehicles.
The timing chains are also failing prematurely with them as the rattle action (as explained by OP) from the sprocket stretches them.
Seems to be related to GDI/DI engines, especially when extended OCI's/manufacturer recommended OCI's are followed.

The choice is yours.
Change your oil early, or replace timing components later.

 

[lube_n00b]

Bingo!

Very common problem on Honda, Hyundai etc vehicles.
The timing chains are also failing prematurely with them as the rattle action (as explained by OP) from the sprocket stretches them.
Seems to be related to GDI/DI engines, especially when extended OCI's/manufacturer recommended OCI's are followed.

The choice is yours.
Change your oil early, or replace timing components later.

I don't think it has anything to do with GDI. It's Variable Valve timing. After doing a bit of research, it's fairly common on this year of vehicle. It's a manufacturing defect. Sometimes you get unlucky too, I've heard of new vehicles getting it as well. It's because the locking pin can't fit into the locking pin hole. Bad maintenance can contribute if it binds the spring in the locking pin though.

 

[Oillover]

I don't think it has anything to do with GDI. It's Variable Valve timing. After doing a bit of research, it's fairly common on this year of vehicle. It's a manufacturing defect. Sometimes you get unlucky too, I've heard of new vehicles getting it as well. It's because the locking pin can't fit into the locking pin hole. Bad maintenance can contribute if it binds the spring in the locking pin though.

Then why is it happening on Hondas as well? It not only takes our the sprocket, but left long enough your pistons will get intimate with the valves as the chain stretches.
Honda owner with 143k miles
GDI causes the oil to become contaminated prematurely. This leads to the oil not performing as intended (which leads to timing component failure...amongst other issues).
Additional stressors like turbo charging will increase the stress on the oil.

It's funny, when I browse Rockauto for a 2009 Corolla, the number of vendors offering timing chains is comical.
A chain setup is designed to be more reliable than a belt, yet folks are replacing them (and other timing components) far earlier than they should be.
The only reason why it isn't performing as intended (usually it's the life of the vehicle), is because of the oil.
The oil is the only thing that can protect the components from failure....failure to change it when it's needed will cause the issues you are experiencing.

Don't worry, I had the same issue when I bought my Honda at 38k miles. It was nearly new yet the previous owner clearly didn't change the oil frequntly enough, leading to the sprocket failure as well. Luckily for me, warranty covered the $1k job.

 

[Oillover]

Hold on OP, I just realized your engine isn't DI.
Regardless, the VVTi system on your Toyota is identical to other cars like Honda, where it relies on oil pressure to activate the VVTi system.

 

[lube_n00b]

Hold on OP, I just realized your engine isn't DI.
Regardless, the VVTi system on your Toyota is identical to other cars like Honda, where it relies on oil pressure to activate the VVTi system.

Was going to say lol

 

[nthach]

OEM is best. Unlocking and locking the gear is a pain.

 

[Greasymechtech]

1.8 or 2.4?

The parts have an accelerated wear rate, somehow overlooked by R&D. The defect is the lube/filter/interval combo that was being used that will determine time/mileage of failure.

I'd use the OE parts from the dealer. And, to hell with the MPG and stick with a 3.5HTHS oil. You can find 3.5HTHS in 0w30, 5w30, 10w30, and 0w40 easily enough. Doesn't need to go SAE bottle label too thick. My 2gr's with thick oil didn't have the issue. My 2gr with OE recommended grades did. I have 500k miles on 2gr's. Its not a big enough sample for some here who like using silly words like anecdotal to degrade someone's real life experience. But, Its convincing enough for me. It only takes me 1 major costly repair to adapt(including and across all other models and makes in the shed/garage/driveway).

I wouldn't waste starters or batteries doing any cranking.

Give the engine some teflon or moly for a few 1000 miles and see if the rattle hit rate is reduced. I find that colloidals seemed to allow pin to lock 'more often' than not, maybe move more freely when shutting down. Could just be stiction(why I don't only think about Ford's and stiction since I see it everywhere). Free flow oil filter reduces startup clatter... so consider the XP, Platinum, or Boss filter. And, I won't argue MOFT here since I already recommend better HTHS. I've caused the problem with a several engines. I prevented the problem with a several. I practice being the antidote for anecdotal. Experiences are what they are, if you plan on learning from them and adapting.

SP/GF6 addresses timing chain wear.... 50 years too late. Stuff gets laughable when dealing with mass marketed disposable products for consumers, and pathetic baby step oil improvements over decades.

Your 4-5k synthetic oil change worked for how long.... so, its time to be more specific concerning the 'oil' used and the filter, after the repair, if its needed. But, my partner's 3750miles interval is border line abusive. So, understand the 'hours' on the engine per interval, 'gallons of fuel burned' per interval, besides the odometer interval. The interval might be negligent if driver spends too much time in traffic or never goes on the highway. 4-5k sounds great but might not be. That is for you to research.

You're a candidate for a 'stiction eliminator' test if you don't plan on the repairs too soon.

 

[lube_n00b]

1.8 or 2.4?

The parts have an accelerated wear rate, somehow overlooked by R&D. The defect is the lube/filter/interval combo that was being used that will determine time/mileage of failure.

I'd use the OE parts from the dealer. And, to hell with the MPG and stick with a 3.5HTHS oil. You can find 3.5HTHS in 0w30, 5w30, 10w30, and 0w40 easily enough. Doesn't need to go SAE bottle label too thick. My 2gr's with thick oil didn't have the issue. My 2gr with OE recommended grades did. I have 500k miles on 2gr's. Its not a big enough sample for some here who like using silly words like anecdotal to degrade someone's real life experience. But, Its convincing enough for me. It only takes me 1 major costly repair to adapt(including and across all other models and makes in the shed/garage/driveway).

I wouldn't waste starters or batteries doing any cranking.

Give the engine some teflon or moly for a few 1000 miles and see if the rattle hit rate is reduced. I find that colloidals seemed to allow pin to lock 'more often' than not, maybe move more freely when shutting down. Could just be stiction(why I don't only think about Ford's and stiction since I see it everywhere). Free flow oil filter reduces startup clatter... so consider the XP, Platinum, or Boss filter. And, I won't argue MOFT here since I already recommend better HTHS. I've caused the problem with a several engines. I prevented the problem with a several. I practice being the antidote for anecdotal. Experiences are what they are, if you plan on learning from them and adapting.

SP/GF6 addresses timing chain wear.... 50 years too late. Stuff gets laughable when dealing with mass marketed disposable products for consumers, and pathetic baby step oil improvements over decades.

Your 4-5k synthetic oil change worked for how long.... so, its time to be more specific concerning the 'oil' used and the filter, after the repair, if its needed. But, my partner's 3750miles interval is border line abusive. So, understand the 'hours' on the engine per interval, 'gallons of fuel burned' per interval, besides the odometer interval. The interval might be negligent if driver spends too much time in traffic or never goes on the highway. 4-5k sounds great but might not be. That is for you to research.

You're a candidate for a 'stiction eliminator' test if you don't plan on the repairs too soon.

Woah, nice write up. Will definitely keep a tab on this information. It's the 1.8 2zr-fe engine. And like I said, I don't know how well this car was taken care of prior to the 80k we bought it at. But I can tell you it started to consistently rattle after the first oil change, which was about 2k after we bought it.

The oils I've used so far are 0w-20 M1 HM with a Purolator for the first OCI(4k). Then I switched it up to Toyota OEM filters and Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20. Not sure what was in there when we first bought it. The filters I've pulled from it all look fine, no weird metal fragmentation.

I don't intend to leave it like that for too long, but if I open up the valve cover to see the chain needs replacing I might just stop there. There's no way for me to pull an engine with the current equipment I have right now.

 

[Oillover]

But, my partner's 3750miles interval is border line abusive. So, understand the 'hours' on the engine per interval, 'gallons of fuel burned' per interval, besides the odometer interval. The interval might be negligent if driver spends too much time in traffic or never goes on the highway. 4-5k sounds great but might not be.

Exactly, that oil change monitor is a bunch of garbage.