I work at a ford dealer and it seems that 75 percent of the drain plugs are over tightened. I use a thread chaser on the plug to straighten the threads instead of charging the customer 20 bucks for a new one.
How often to change oil drain plug?
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I've been changing oil for over 40 years now and never replaced a drain plug, or a crush washer if memory serves me correctly. Then again I don't use Gorilla strength to tighten them either.
Mine are the original plugs on my '96 Dakota and '98 Cherokee and of course our '11 X35d.
Actually, if I count OPE, all of my drain plugs are original too.....'47 Farmall, '82 Ingersoll, '82 Powermate, '94 Troy, '99 Snapper, '99 Huskee, '08 Champion, & '10 John Deere.
The road vehicle drain plugs always get torqued to spec but the OPE just get tightened.
Actually, if I count OPE, all of my drain plugs are original too.....'47 Farmall, '82 Ingersoll, '82 Powermate, '94 Troy, '99 Snapper, '99 Huskee, '08 Champion, & '10 John Deere.
The road vehicle drain plugs always get torqued to spec but the OPE just get tightened.
It is probably a good idea to have an OEM spare in your tool box.
Sometimes they plunk into the oil pan, so it is nice to have a second drain plug to put in the pan. Also, you can have the spare ready with a fresh crush washer while you pick away at the old one that is stuck on the drain plug you just took out.
Then, when you are draining your oil pan when the job is done, you can fish around for the lost drain plug.
I'd only change a plug if you start seeing it erode from salt damage, or from dissimilar metal erosion from copper crush washers, where the back of the plug is pitted too badly.
Also, if you fumble the drain plug and it skitters across the floor down a drain, it would be a PITA not having a spare.
I mean, a spare would cost a few bucks. Could save some hassles for sure.
Sometimes they plunk into the oil pan, so it is nice to have a second drain plug to put in the pan. Also, you can have the spare ready with a fresh crush washer while you pick away at the old one that is stuck on the drain plug you just took out.
Then, when you are draining your oil pan when the job is done, you can fish around for the lost drain plug.
I'd only change a plug if you start seeing it erode from salt damage, or from dissimilar metal erosion from copper crush washers, where the back of the plug is pitted too badly.
Also, if you fumble the drain plug and it skitters across the floor down a drain, it would be a PITA not having a spare.
I mean, a spare would cost a few bucks. Could save some hassles for sure.
JHZR2
Staff member
I have 32 year old plugs in service that look and thread like new.
I've only replaced a drain plug if it was previously damaged...this has happened a few times in buying used cars.
Drain plugs are basically a bolt. They don't wear out, but they can be damaged by carelessness.
The 81 year old drain plug on the Packard is in perfect condition...
Drain plugs are basically a bolt. They don't wear out, but they can be damaged by carelessness.
The 81 year old drain plug on the Packard is in perfect condition...
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Another point; If its a metric drain plug, use metric vise grips.
... or channel locks
Metric system is tricky and most care must be taken.
Another point; If its a metric drain plug, use metric vise grips.
... or channel locks
I've intentionally replaced my stock oil drain plugs with a magnetic ones and stick with those for the life of the vehicle. Have changed the gaskets a few times.
I change my nissans every time. Its a funny crush washer and only 1.50 $
Originally Posted By: NO2
Instant oil change places are notorious for stripping the plugs.
Or worse than that they strip the oil PAN! They did that on my wife's Prius when I was unable to do 3 or 4 of the OCI's myself after I had back surgery. I couldn't prove which one was responsible, but fortunately the factory pan was only $38 and an hour of my labor.
Instant oil change places are notorious for stripping the plugs.
Or worse than that they strip the oil PAN! They did that on my wife's Prius when I was unable to do 3 or 4 of the OCI's myself after I had back surgery. I couldn't prove which one was responsible, but fortunately the factory pan was only $38 and an hour of my labor.
Ive found on all the used Fords We've bought, the drain plug has well worn threads. Even with 20k miles on them. This results in the plug being rough to thread. I then replace the plug, which corrects the roughness. Seems the pan likes to wear the threads out on the plug with Ford's for some reason.
I keep a bunch of seals and spare plugs in my tool box for the fleet.
I keep a bunch of seals and spare plugs in my tool box for the fleet.
A Honda plug is so cheap (from the right seller) that you could probably order a dozen and change the bolt every oil change. At the very least I want to get the factory one off my wife's car because it's been painted over. This dealer sells it for $1.21, although I don't think you can specify country of origin. They could be made in Japan, US, or Canada. There are some people who would pay extra for the Japanese part.
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~bolt~drain~plug~90009-PH1-000.html
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~bolt~drain~plug~90009-PH1-000.html
When I first learned to change oil I asked my dad how tight? He said tight enough and since I was probably 10 at the time he figured I wouldn't over tighten. I did and we learned how to put oversize plugs in the Jeep and Eagle that year. The oversize plugs with the smaller drain plugs in the middle lasted years after that and I never ruined a plug since.
I had one on my used F150 I bought that was messed up by prev owner. Threads were barely salvageable, but I installed a fumoto on that to never have to deal with those weak threads again.
I had one on my used F150 I bought that was messed up by prev owner. Threads were barely salvageable, but I installed a fumoto on that to never have to deal with those weak threads again.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Another point; If its a metric drain plug, use metric vise grips.
... or channel locks
Metric system is tricky and most care must be taken.
In college I used to carry a complete set of SAE wrenches and sockets and one Metric adjustable wrench. Now it is the other way around.
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Another point; If its a metric drain plug, use metric vise grips.
... or channel locks
In college I used to carry a complete set of SAE wrenches and sockets and one Metric adjustable wrench. Now it is the other way around.
Originally Posted By: HangFire
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Another point; If its a metric drain plug, use metric vise grips.
... or channel locks
Metric system is tricky and most care must be taken.
In college I used to carry a complete set of SAE wrenches and sockets and one Metric adjustable wrench. Now it is the other way around.
I bought a handful of SAE copper crush washers just because they were cheaper. They may not even be useful, but they were cheap. I think the 1/2" are a good substitute for an M12.
However, I don't think I've ever bought a specific SAE sized tool in my life. I've been using the same Craftsman socket set I bought in 1995 for $15 on sale. I guess the spark plug socket is 5/8", but the rest is 10mm to 17mm. Even to do oil changes on GM cars it was a metric head.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Another point; If its a metric drain plug, use metric vise grips.
... or channel locks
In college I used to carry a complete set of SAE wrenches and sockets and one Metric adjustable wrench. Now it is the other way around.
I bought a handful of SAE copper crush washers just because they were cheaper. They may not even be useful, but they were cheap. I think the 1/2" are a good substitute for an M12.
However, I don't think I've ever bought a specific SAE sized tool in my life. I've been using the same Craftsman socket set I bought in 1995 for $15 on sale. I guess the spark plug socket is 5/8", but the rest is 10mm to 17mm. Even to do oil changes on GM cars it was a metric head.
I do often have to replace the 13mm drain plug found on Chrysler vehicles. The rubber part is integrated into the plug, so when the rubber gets out of shape due to age, replacing the whole plug is the only option. For my mom's car and a friend's car, I got some Dorman brand magnetic drain plugs that take an aluminum washer. That washer is the right size for many Honda and Mitsubishi engines, so getting more washers will never be difficult.
Modern GM plugs are a little different. The plug has a recess with a rubber gasket inside of it. Sometimes I can find something in the parts bin that is close enough to work. If I can't find something close enough, I replace the plug. Such gaskets can last a long time, but only if the plug is treated with care.
Like other people in this thread, I usually find damaged drain plugs at quick lube places where most people overtighten everything.
Modern GM plugs are a little different. The plug has a recess with a rubber gasket inside of it. Sometimes I can find something in the parts bin that is close enough to work. If I can't find something close enough, I replace the plug. Such gaskets can last a long time, but only if the plug is treated with care.
Like other people in this thread, I usually find damaged drain plugs at quick lube places where most people overtighten everything.
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