How often do you replace your battery ?

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quote:

Originally posted by SHOZ:
Johnson Controls makes most of the non-Exide batteries at WalMart. Johnson Controls is the manufacturer of the Sears DieHard too. They are the biggest car battery manufacture in the US. Exide is the pits.

I can see you know your stuff. Indeed, I've had to learn the hard way that Johnson Controls makes the best batteries that you will find in the typical retail market. They make the Duralast batteries at Autozone.

One brand I'd suggest avoiding is Champion. Between me and my neighbor we've seen 4 Champion batteries and they fail at around 3 years. Champion's are made by Exide and are sold at Sam's stores. Exide made batteries are not of the same quality of Johnson Controls batteries.

I hope to get an Optima drycell battery next time but the $130 price tag is hard to get over.

[ September 15, 2003, 06:55 AM: Message edited by: Cressida ]
 
Best battery I've had has been the OEM Motorcraft battery in my F150's. The one in my '97 was still strong when I sold it last month with 162,000 miles on it and almost seven years on it. The one in my '99 is still strong with 90,000 on the odometer and four years on it.

Worst has been Sears Die Hard Weatherhandlers (the base model) and Delco Freedom batteries. Never got more than 3 years of service out of any of them. I have a Die-Hard Gold in my Jeep now, ask me in a few years how its doing!
 
One of my clients is from Johnson Controls. The inside word is that Optima batteries ARE superior to regular batteries and worth the price. He says they have spares lying around their place and can get me one anytime I need one.

BTW, I noticed nobody mentioned in this thread that it's best to install the largest battery that can fit in your vehicle, regardless of the size specified. The extra size helps the battery last considerably longer.
 
Did Exide quit making the Sears Diehard batteries? I worked at an Exide plant for a short while back in 96 and they made the Diehards, Toyota, Lexus, maybe others there. I asked a tech and he said the Diehards were built to Sears specs and were better than the regular Exide batteries. I've used lots of Diehards but have never kept a car long enough to replace one. I've seen a stock Chevette battery go 7+ years and I think my in-laws 8 year old Volvo is original as well.
 
I read a lot of bad stuff about Exides, and it's probably true in general, but I seem to have lucked out. My car came with an Exide when I bought it used, almost 4.5 years ago. It's still going strong. I don't know how old it was when I bought the car.

It's a Group 51R, which is about as small as they come. It's been drained flat (and jump-started) at least once. I live in a hot climate (which people say is the hardest on batteries). I drive hard, so under-hood temperatures are high.

I've probably jinxed it by writing this...
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Interesting question. I had a Ford Telstasr 2.2 (rebadged Mazda 626) that had a battery that tested perfectly by my battery wholesaler BUT drove like it had a miss. Decided to throw a new battery (largest I could fit) at it for winter and instantly the miss was gone. Same with my Mazda 626 GT so I know I wasn't dreaming. Friendly auto electrician said "of course" modern electronic ignitions require a near perfect battery/charging system to work correctly. When they go off a little it's very noticeable. I also just added a larger 'deep cycle' battery to my Outback as the OEM Panasonic, which again tested as within 5% of new, wouldn't run the WAECO fridge without the fridge error light coming on. A tip - I always fit the physically largest battery that will fit in the carrier, it handles engine starting in winter better and lasts much longer IMO.
 
I bought a Walmart Everstart Maxx battery for my 1997 Z28 when the the AC delco one was starting to fail. 8 months later, the Walmart battery was dead. I was kinda pissed, but I just took it back and got a new one. 3 year free replacement warranty
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I had the Everstart Maxx battery in my 1993 Thunderbird for about a year and it worked fine.

I'm not looking forward to battery shopping for my 2500 Ram with the Cummins turbo diesel since it needs two and Walmart does not list them for it
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My 99 Acura SLX came with a huge Furukawa battery.
I think the Furukawa is part of a heavy duty package that is offered in the Isuzu Heavy Duty Electrical package outside the US. It is sold as the Tropical Package in SE Asia and includes a higher rated alternator. The battery failed suddenly after 50K. The damage was probably due to a broken plate resulting from 4X4 offroad use in Death Valley. I replaced it with an Optima. I use WalMart batteries in my sedan and KEEP the receipt. They do not replace it without the receipt. Mine is taped to the battery.
 
ADVICE TO ALL ON BATTERIES,

I started working as a weekend only Service writer for Sears Auto.

ONLY BUY DIEHARD GOLD, and SUV BATTERIES.

Please do not be a cheap a*** and buy those cheezy blue weatherhandlers. In this case the saying goes you get what you pay for. I can not stand it when a customer walks in and asks for the cheapest battery. Thank god I am a good salesmen and can 99$ the time they leave with a GOLD and NEVER come back.

We also sell OPTIMA batteries now.


OPTIMA ARE THE BEST, buy one if you see it.

Optima red tops last 2-3 times longer than the street battery, with 910 CCA, and a spill proof design.

I just attended a Johnson Controls class on Optimas if anyone has any questions.

Subsequently enough, I am selling Optima's like hotcakes and we just sold out
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quote:

Originally posted by outrun:
ADVICE TO ALL ON BATTERIES,

I started working as a weekend only Service writer for Sears Auto.

ONLY BUY DIEHARD GOLD, and SUV BATTERIES.

Please do not be a cheap a*** and buy those cheezy blue weatherhandlers. In this case the saying goes you get what you pay for. I can not stand it when a customer walks in and asks for the cheapest battery. Thank god I am a good salesmen and can 99$ the time they leave with a GOLD and NEVER come back.

We also sell OPTIMA batteries now.


OPTIMA ARE THE BEST, buy one if you see it.

Optima red tops last 2-3 times longer than the street battery, with 910 CCA, and a spill proof design.

I just attended a Johnson Controls class on Optimas if anyone has any questions.

Subsequently enough, I am selling Optima's like hotcakes and we just sold out
smile.gif


Nobody else has said much about Die Hards here. Are they any better than they used to be? 20 years ago I knew people with a lifetime warranty on one that got tired of battery trouble and went and bought something else.
 
quote:

Originally posted by outrun:
--**--
I just attended a Johnson Controls class on Optimas if anyone has any questions.

Subsequently enough, I am selling Optima's like hotcakes and we just sold out
smile.gif


Yes, I was interested in trying them until I was told by an electrical shop in Houston not to bother until they get some quality issues resolved. He told be that they were getting a lot or replacements com in the shop, two in fact the day I was there. Whazz-Zupp?
 
I have not been around in a professional sense for 20 year to answer the historical DIEHARD question.

What i will say is that in my assessment they are just as good as Stock factory AC Delco batteries.

In this i am referring to the Diehard Gold or Die Hard range handler SUV.

To many factors go into a batteries life...with heat being the primary killer, and of course deep cycling.

Anytime a car has been jumped more than once is signature that the battery has taken a serious hit. Deep cycle batteries are only designed for full discharge and repeated recharge repectfully.

So, assuming you buy a DH gold riight now, in all actuality i would not expect to see you again for 3-4 years.

3-4 years being the average i see on the weekends of dead batteries.

Some Toyota (japanese imported) batteries seem to last 5years...as in when we pull a 1997 lexus the factoryt battery last until today.

I also beleive Interstate batteries to be quality units.

As far as Optima red tops, i have sold three in the past month no one has come back *yet*

we will see what happens quality wise...they surely will be angry with me after all the effort i put selling it.

There hott with the F-Body, Import and Truck crowd so far.
 
Working in a northern climate and driving year-round, do not be a cheapskate when it comes to buying a battery. Be sure to get a battery with more CCA(cold clanking amps) then your car uses. This way you have more of a buffer for starting on those -10°F days.
 
I have had good luck with Energizer batteries from the local Farm&Fleet store. I always get the biggest amp I can. My mechanic says I am nuts because he has had trouble with stuck starters and such. In my view, when that alternator craps on a trip, you have a significantly further distance to find help before it goes dead. Just my take on it.
 
I'm with you ****. Buy the biggest meanest battery you can that will fit in the battery compartment. For me, it always been > 700 Amps CCA for 4 bangers and >900 CCA for sixes and eights.

I think starters last longer if they have sufficient current to get them spinning on a cold morning. The less time they are engaged the less heat they have to endure.
 
quote:

Originally posted by outrun:


Optima red tops last 2-3 times longer than the street battery, with 910 CCA, and a spill proof design.

I just attended a Johnson Controls class on Optimas if anyone has any questions.
smile.gif


They had better last 2-3 times longer since they cost twice as much. If they really do last that long, why is the warranty not double or triple?

Most of the input here has been from those in cold climates and the advice is basically to buy highest CCA rating. In the desert Southwest, that is the worst thing you can do. Packing more lead plates into a small space just makes them die faster (harder?) from heat. Some vendors, including Autozone and Sears, sell lower CCA, more heat-resistant versions in the Southwest.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jimbo:
Most of the input here has been from those in cold climates and the advice is basically to buy highest CCA rating. In the desert Southwest, that is the worst thing you can do.

I share your climate and reasoning.
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As it turns out, my Exide is dead. My post on the previous page wasn't exactly prohpetic; there were hints of impending doom when I wrote that.

I went to AutoZone and bought their 7-year Duralast for $50, made by Johnson Controls. The Optima sold for $140. For that much money, I can get 19.6 years' worth of the battery I bought. At that point, my car will be about 30 years old and have 473,200 miles on the clock, at my current rate of driving.

I just didn't see the point of investing that much in the battery. I have no doubt that it's an excellent battery. I've heard nothing but good about the Optima, and if I lived somewhere cold with an engine that's hard to turn over, I'd give it more thought.

I know that the battery I bought probably won't actually last 7 years. But Johnson is reputable, and I'll probably get at least 4 out of it. AutoZones are common enough that going there to make a warranty claim, and paying $25 or $30 for a replacement, isn't a burden to me.
 
On Optima Red Top Batteries,

A)This is "inside" information to ALL BITOG members.

As according to Johnson Controls regional representative all Optima Batteries will have the SAME warranties as DieHard Gold batteries sometime around Winter of this year.

That means:

Red Top: 36month free replacement, and 100months
pro-rata

Second, as far as the price is concerned?

You can buy a universal fit Optima 35/75 from Jegs High Performance Mail order for 99$ +shipping and handling. I think it was a very reasonable 7.99$ actually.

So now that price and warranty is resolved are there any other reasons?

As far as the Houston member talking about bugs? Sometime around last january there were some problems with Optima Reds and Blue Marine Deep Cycle..this problem has seem to be fixed. So if your batteries were produced in that time frame therein is where the bug lies.
 
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