How often do you change the airfilter??

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Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: Kestas
That's my argument as well. With fuel injected engines and O2 sensor feedback regulating the air/fuel mixture, a dirty air filter only affects top end performance. If you don't need that "edge", there's nothing wrong with getting your full money's worth from the filter.


Agreed. I don't put nearly as much weight behind airfilter changes as I once did. As long as the media stays in good shape, I don't have a problem running it for a long time. I use WOT once a month maybe and this particular car has more media area than it needs so it would have to be pretty dirty to affect wide open performance. I like how many people will post the 2-5mpg jump going from a clean stock filter to a drop in K&N.
What really should be the question at this point is how far can the ECM compensate for the change in the air flow restriction?


That's the thing, there is no change in air flow restriction to compensate for. For the most part the throttle-body determines the restriction and the intake tract pre-throttle body might as well be invisible. Under some circumstances like WOT and a dirty filter there may be some restriction but it's no different than a partially closed throttle. In a MAF car it shows less airflow. In a speed density car it shows up as more manifold vacuum.

There's the very small and I mean small chance that the car puts a lot of weight on the TPS position, much more common on speed density cars and you may have a slightly richer mix the first time you go WOT if you were to swap a clean filter for a dirty filter assuming it poses a restriction. However the 02 naturally takes care of this as the filter ages with short and long term fuel trims. For most cars, even if there was no 02 feedback it would not cause a rich condition.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: Tornado Red
Get a Filter Minder, then you will not have to guess whether your filter needs replacement or not.

AFAIK, a Filter Minder can be moved from one vehicle to another, And it doesn't have but one moving part, so it ought to last for decades. About $25-32 at various online vendors.



$21 all day long at your local NAPA. They will get it within 2 days.


I've often thought about trying one of these. Can you get them with different trigger points?
 
I plan on checking my K@N at 25,000 miles, if it doesn't look too bad, I'll leave it alone and check it every 5000 miles beyond the 25K.

Based on the oil blotter test's I've been doing, M-1 5w-30 and my 85 mile round trip highway commute, I'm seeing virtually no oil deterioration until I'm beyond 3000 miles. Even at 6000 miles, it gives a good stain, no oxidation ring or anything like that. So I think the K@N filters just fine, my oil isn't getting dirty.
 
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Originally Posted By: Mobil1Fan77
I plan on checking my K@N at 25,000 miles, if it doesn't look too bad, I'll leave it alone and check it every 5000 miles beyond the 25K.

Based on the oil blotter test's I've been doing, M-1 5w-30 and my 85 mile round trip highway commute, I'm seeing virtually no oil deterioration until I'm beyond 3000 miles. Even at 6000 miles, it gives a good stain, no oxidation ring or anything like that. So I think the K@N filters just fine, my oil isn't getting dirty.


This is one area a UOA would be useful in. I don't think the blotter would be that useful for determining the silicone content. You may get away with the K&N just fine depending on the conditions you drive in.
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: Tornado Red
Get a Filter Minder, then you will not have to guess whether your filter needs replacement or not.

AFAIK, a Filter Minder can be moved from one vehicle to another, And it doesn't have but one moving part, so it ought to last for decades. About $25-32 at various online vendors.



$21 all day long at your local NAPA. They will get it within 2 days.


I've often thought about trying one of these. Can you get them with different trigger points?


http://www.filterminder.com/
 
I recently sold an Audi, with 260,000 miles on it. This thing burned a quart of oil every FOUR THOUSAND miles, ran like a top, the motor was solid. It was the old 2.2 inline 5cyl, pretty much bulletproof. Even the turbo was still good, spun right up. Guess what, this thing had a K@N since day one, didn't seem to negatively affect it at all. I'm sure the synthetic oil didn't hurt either.

If I get 260K out of this Subaru I just bought, I'll be a happy guy. Nuthin' wrong with K@N.
 
You're really asking for the K&N hate minion abuse, aren't you?
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Nah, we only abuse the filter, not the person using it! If one's mental health is tied up with what air filter one is using, of course, it may seem like a personal attack ( : < ).
 
When I think of it, or if it is dirty when I check it.
But I don't think I change them enough.
The one in my Camry has about 25k on it, (It's an OEM Toyota Denso) but it's not that dirty.
I think I'll change it when I start my new job. Money is tight right now.
My Windstar's has about 15k on it, and I'll be changing it soon.
It's a Fram. The ONLY reason I'm running a Fram in it now is that the OEM doesn't look like anything special. It actually looks the same. Media and all, so I wasn't picky. It kinda went like this. We were in WM, near the car care section. I said to my wife that the van needed a new a/f, and she said to get one. So I did.
I'm more picky about my Camry, as Toyota filters are much higher quality than Fram. The Yota filter is a Multi Layer fiber element. The Fram is just paper for that application.
Anyone who has seen a Yota filter knows what I'm talking about.
 
Originally Posted By: Mobil1Fan77
I recently sold an Audi, with 260,000 miles on it. This thing burned a quart of oil every FOUR THOUSAND miles, ran like a top, the motor was solid. It was the old 2.2 inline 5cyl, pretty much bulletproof. Even the turbo was still good, spun right up. Guess what, this thing had a K@N since day one, didn't seem to negatively affect it at all. I'm sure the synthetic oil didn't hurt either.

If I get 260K out of this Subaru I just bought, I'll be a happy guy. Nuthin' wrong with K@N.


So you're using an engine that was run on synthetic it's whole life that burns a quart every 4,000 miles as an example of how well a K&N protects? I'm not sure that's a good example.

Of course you're not reading the other posts by me and others stating that in some non dusty areas you can get away with a K&N just fine. Then you ignore that I've seen first hand the compressor wheel abrasion caused by poorly filtered air. Sure, the engine runs fine but charge temps go up.
 
I just changed out the oem factory installed air filter on my Corolla after 2 years, 24K miles. Wasnt really that dirty, just wanted to change it out I guess.

Replaced with a wix filter. 15K or around 2 years is what I was taught
 
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
I just changed out the oem factory installed air filter on my Corolla after 2 years, 24K miles. Wasnt really that dirty, just wanted to change it out I guess.

Replaced with a wix filter. 15K or around 2 years is what I was taught


Hopefully your Wix filter was built correctly. The ones that I bought were not.

Not impressed with Wix air filter thread

The ones that I bought would allow unfiltered air past the filter.
spankme2.gif


Bill
 
Quote:
That's the thing, there is no change in air flow restriction to compensate for. For the most part the throttle-body determines the restriction and the intake tract pre-throttle body might as well be invisible. Under some circumstances like WOT and a dirty filter there may be some restriction but it's no different than a partially closed throttle. In a MAF car it shows less airflow. In a speed density car it shows up as more manifold vacuum.


I reason that you simulate higher altitude the more restrictive a filter is. The increase in vacuum losses may be minor ..but it's still an increase.

I doubt that you have the same power production and fuel economy in Colorado @ 5000' that you do @ sea level. A restrictive filter simulates conditions somewhere in there at lower elevations somewhere in the variable range of CFM you're drawing in. At altitude you're drawing in lower density air.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
I just changed out the oem factory installed air filter on my Corolla after 2 years, 24K miles. Wasnt really that dirty, just wanted to change it out I guess.

Replaced with a wix filter. 15K or around 2 years is what I was taught

Hopefully your Wix filter was built correctly. The ones that I bought were not.
Not impressed with Wix air filter thread
The ones that I bought would allow unfiltered air past the filter.
spankme2.gif


Bill

I will have o look at the pics when I get home as I cant see them at work. I dont recall seeing a gasket on them, but they could have been covered with the filter element if that makes any sense?

EDIT: I will look at my filter and see if it looks like yours. Maybe take a pic too.
 
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