Im going to try and do a full OLM change with my Accord. I have heard and read many recommendations to change out the PCV valve on the 2.4 because the "spring" breaks. I honestly dont know the full extent of what the PCV does, do I need to change it? My driving style is 95% 1 miles trips so I would like to have the oil as clean as possible while I do this OLM oil change. Is it worth changing or just keep driving? Also, about how much would this be at the dealer. Im at 114,500 miles now. Is Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 a good oil to do the OLM change with? It calls for 5w20 but Honda back spec'd 0w20 for my car. Running Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 and A02 filter.
How much to replace OEM PCV valve?
- Thread starter gregk24
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You can youtube pcv replacing procedures for most vehicles, part is like $4.00 takes about 2 minutes counting lifting hood on most vehicles. I would not waste money paying a dealer mechanic for something like that, but if it helps you sleep better at night, or is REALLY difficult too get too, go for it. This may help too understand what they do as well....
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/engine/ques079_1.html
Good luck!
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/engine/ques079_1.html
Good luck!
Good info here.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3422
Looks like a $12 part at rockauto.com
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3422
Looks like a $12 part at rockauto.com
MrQuackers
Site Donor 2025
For me it is 30 seconds and $2.99
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Look on you tube by year and model. Suggest you go to the dealer and use an oem valve.
Yes...OEM PCV valves are often CHEAPER than stores...and...while you're at it...
BE SURE TO CHECK the HOSE it's attached to...FLORIDA'S heat can dry out hoses (like gaskets, seals, hoses, boots...anything rubber actually) and ends may be cracked/brittle hard and not giving a tight seal at the ends...another cheap and easy part to replace (on Kitacam, $5.50 for the valve, $15 for the hose...and 10 minutes to replace including wash-up).
Look on you tube by year and model. Suggest you go to the dealer and use an oem valve.
Yes...OEM PCV valves are often CHEAPER than stores...and...while you're at it...
BE SURE TO CHECK the HOSE it's attached to...FLORIDA'S heat can dry out hoses (like gaskets, seals, hoses, boots...anything rubber actually) and ends may be cracked/brittle hard and not giving a tight seal at the ends...another cheap and easy part to replace (on Kitacam, $5.50 for the valve, $15 for the hose...and 10 minutes to replace including wash-up).
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Do check your underhood hoses, but I suspect you'll find, if your Accord is like both of our cars, that the PCV hoses are a silicone-like material and very durable. Few of the hoses and vacuum lines under the hood of our cars are straight rubber; most are a very soft and pliable silicone that doesn't harden nearly as fast as rubber does.
PCV valve replacement is pretty easy on the Honda K24. KitaCam, good to hear it's easy on the Toyota 2AZ-FE engine also. You may know that I had a 2011 Camry with the 2AR-FE engine and the PCV valve was located on the block behind the intake manifold, on the back side of the engine. It is quoted as a 4-hour job at the dealership to replace that valve!
PCV valve replacement is pretty easy on the Honda K24. KitaCam, good to hear it's easy on the Toyota 2AZ-FE engine also. You may know that I had a 2011 Camry with the 2AR-FE engine and the PCV valve was located on the block behind the intake manifold, on the back side of the engine. It is quoted as a 4-hour job at the dealership to replace that valve!
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Do check your underhood hoses, but I suspect you'll find, if your Accord is like both of our cars, that the PCV hoses are a silicone-like material and very durable. Few of the hoses and vacuum lines under the hood of our cars are straight rubber; most are a very soft and pliable silicone that doesn't harden nearly as fast as rubber does.
PCV valve replacement is pretty easy on the Honda K24. KitaCam, good to hear it's easy on the Toyota 2AZ-FE engine also. You may know that I had a 2011 Camry with the 2AR-FE engine and the PCV valve was located on the block behind the intake manifold, on the back side of the engine. It is quoted as a 4-hour job at the dealership to replace that valve!
Good to hear Honda hoses are silicone...as for being easy...with a stick, I do tend to run RPMs up higher than the same engine with the AT (shifting @ 3-4k rather than 2-3k)...it just SOUNDS better up there...
Do check your underhood hoses, but I suspect you'll find, if your Accord is like both of our cars, that the PCV hoses are a silicone-like material and very durable. Few of the hoses and vacuum lines under the hood of our cars are straight rubber; most are a very soft and pliable silicone that doesn't harden nearly as fast as rubber does.
PCV valve replacement is pretty easy on the Honda K24. KitaCam, good to hear it's easy on the Toyota 2AZ-FE engine also. You may know that I had a 2011 Camry with the 2AR-FE engine and the PCV valve was located on the block behind the intake manifold, on the back side of the engine. It is quoted as a 4-hour job at the dealership to replace that valve!
Good to hear Honda hoses are silicone...as for being easy...with a stick, I do tend to run RPMs up higher than the same engine with the AT (shifting @ 3-4k rather than 2-3k)...it just SOUNDS better up there...
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
PCV valve replacement is pretty easy on the Honda K24. KitaCam, good to hear it's easy on the Toyota 2AZ-FE engine also. You may know that I had a 2011 Camry with the 2AR-FE engine and the PCV valve was located on the block behind the intake manifold, on the back side of the engine. It is quoted as a 4-hour job at the dealership to replace that valve!
That is just a shame.
A maintenance part should never be that involved to replace.
You should have seen the one on the Saturn S-series. Right on top of the valve cover, no tools required, 30 seconds. That is the way it should be.
PCV valve replacement is pretty easy on the Honda K24. KitaCam, good to hear it's easy on the Toyota 2AZ-FE engine also. You may know that I had a 2011 Camry with the 2AR-FE engine and the PCV valve was located on the block behind the intake manifold, on the back side of the engine. It is quoted as a 4-hour job at the dealership to replace that valve!
That is just a shame.
A maintenance part should never be that involved to replace.
You should have seen the one on the Saturn S-series. Right on top of the valve cover, no tools required, 30 seconds. That is the way it should be.
after market pcv valves shouldn't cost more than $10 and when you find where the valve is located, it's just a matter of removing the hose from the valve and then removing the valve. BITOGers walked me thru it on my corolla and celica a couple years ago and I was like, wow, that was easy and inexpensive. Don't take it to a dealer if you don't have to. they'll charge you an arm and leg for labor.
This should be close enough
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Honda-Accord-PCV-Valve-Replacement-Guide/index.html
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Honda-Accord-PCV-Valve-Replacement-Guide/index.html
On my Pathfinder, the PCV valve is buried under the upper and lower intake manifolds. That was one heck of a job for a simple PCV valve.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: Vikas
NO AFTERMARKET PCV valve on a Honda please!
Why is this? I have NO problem getting the OEM part, but why not aftermarket.
It's a generally accepted belief. You will not find any proof one way or another.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
NO AFTERMARKET PCV valve on a Honda please!
Why is this? I have NO problem getting the OEM part, but why not aftermarket.
It's a generally accepted belief. You will not find any proof one way or another.
If you get the aftermarket PCV and hold it in one hand and the OEM in another, you will know it instantly! I bought an after market for my Honda but when I finally got to remove it (it was buried under the intake manifold), I realized that the old original was all metal and had way better quality than the new plastic one. I cleaned the old one and put it back.
The real reason is that those are factory calibrated to open at specific pressure and/or flow rates and aftermarket guys do not replicate that behavior.
The real reason is that those are factory calibrated to open at specific pressure and/or flow rates and aftermarket guys do not replicate that behavior.
I had a Honda Accord for many years. The older Accords used a rubber grommet on the engine side and it was a real pain to replace correctly when it became brittle and hardened. Rather than being a regular type of grommet it was actually the top of a specially molded hose that snapped into a bracket in a rather inaccessible location.
Long story short; the aftermarket valves were junk and they even had larger diameter ends which caused my grommet and connecting hose to wear out prematurely. Ultimately, I found I could use an OEM valve for a LONG time just by spraying carb cleaner through it every 30,000 miles. Using synthetic oil for the car's life, I never saw any gunk build up in it, anyway.
Long story short; the aftermarket valves were junk and they even had larger diameter ends which caused my grommet and connecting hose to wear out prematurely. Ultimately, I found I could use an OEM valve for a LONG time just by spraying carb cleaner through it every 30,000 miles. Using synthetic oil for the car's life, I never saw any gunk build up in it, anyway.
Next oil change ill be replacing the OE one in the CRV. I bought the same valve but don't remember the cost.
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