For those of you who have a TP bypass filter, how much oil do you have to add when changing the TP part way through an OCI. This is assuming the TP is changed when the oil is cool and most of it has drained back to the pan.
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How much replacement oil is needed when changing TP
- Thread starter OffOrWFO
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It really depends on how much oil still remains in the canister. If NONE of the oil in the canister is drained back to the engine, I would say about a quart of fresh oil will be needed for each TP replacement.
My case is similar to yours. There is some oil left in the canister. I am going to replace the TP the first time this weekend. Here is how I would do it. After replacing the TP I will drain about half quart of used oil, and then add one quart of fresh oil. Start the engine. Check the oil level IMMEDIATELY after stopping the engine, so, you can get an accurate reading from the oil dipstick before any of the oil in the canister drained back into the engine. Top off more fresh oil if needed. Observe the total amount of fresh oil you use, so, you know how much to add next time.
I have installed an engine oil drain valve, which makes draining used oil a simple task.
http://www.fumotovalve.com/
If your bypass filter setup does not return oil thru the oil drain plug, I would recommend the installation of above product. I have used it on all my cars and van for the past 10 years, and never have any problems.
If you do not want to drain used oil, you can add small amount of oil and check the oil level by trial and error. Again, record the amount of fresh oil you add to make next TP change easier. Besides making up the loss of oil, the other reason for adding fresh oil is to replenish the depleted oil additives in your used oil. If less than a quart of fresh oil is added, your used oil may not getting enough oil additives depending on how long your OCI is. Maybe you can add aftermarket oil additives like Lube Control for the peace of mind.
http://www.lubecontrol.com/lube.htm
Just my 0.02.
My case is similar to yours. There is some oil left in the canister. I am going to replace the TP the first time this weekend. Here is how I would do it. After replacing the TP I will drain about half quart of used oil, and then add one quart of fresh oil. Start the engine. Check the oil level IMMEDIATELY after stopping the engine, so, you can get an accurate reading from the oil dipstick before any of the oil in the canister drained back into the engine. Top off more fresh oil if needed. Observe the total amount of fresh oil you use, so, you know how much to add next time.
I have installed an engine oil drain valve, which makes draining used oil a simple task.
http://www.fumotovalve.com/
If your bypass filter setup does not return oil thru the oil drain plug, I would recommend the installation of above product. I have used it on all my cars and van for the past 10 years, and never have any problems.
If you do not want to drain used oil, you can add small amount of oil and check the oil level by trial and error. Again, record the amount of fresh oil you add to make next TP change easier. Besides making up the loss of oil, the other reason for adding fresh oil is to replenish the depleted oil additives in your used oil. If less than a quart of fresh oil is added, your used oil may not getting enough oil additives depending on how long your OCI is. Maybe you can add aftermarket oil additives like Lube Control for the peace of mind.
http://www.lubecontrol.com/lube.htm
Just my 0.02.
I crack the filter seal with the engine warm and wait 20 min or so for the oil to drain out of the cannister. I then replace the TP and add 1 quart of make up oil. That has worked on (3) different vehicles for a dozen or so changes.
Checking the oil immediately after shut down may result in overfilling the crankcase. There is still oil in the top of the motor which takes time (varies on engine & oil temp) to drain into the pan.
With the bypass filter drained and the engine cool my vehicles all show just over the high mark on the stick. When the engine is started and the bypass filter cannister fills up I am somewhere close to the correct engine oil level.
Checking the oil immediately after shut down may result in overfilling the crankcase. There is still oil in the top of the motor which takes time (varies on engine & oil temp) to drain into the pan.
With the bypass filter drained and the engine cool my vehicles all show just over the high mark on the stick. When the engine is started and the bypass filter cannister fills up I am somewhere close to the correct engine oil level.
Isn't it a common practice to check the oil level right after engine (not equipped with bypass filter) shutoff to make sure there is sufficient amount of oil in the oil pan while the engine is still fully lubricated?
If you have oil level on high mark after all the oil settles into the oil pan, how would you know there will be sufficient oil when the engine is running with the bypass filter drawing up a quart of oil?
If you have oil level on high mark after all the oil settles into the oil pan, how would you know there will be sufficient oil when the engine is running with the bypass filter drawing up a quart of oil?
The crankcase oil level is checked with either the engine cold, or if at operating temperature a few minutes after shutdown (to allow hot oil to drain from the top of the motor into the pan.
For the bypass cannister & hose I just used 1 quart additional oil that was given as an estimate in the literature from Frantz or Motorguard (I have both). The vehicle manufacturer specs the oil level based upon the entire oil capacity (ie: after oil drains down into the pan). They obviously do not account for the additional capacity of the bypass cannister and hose.
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"If you have oil level on high mark after all the oil settles into the oil pan, how would you know there will be sufficient oil when the engine is running with the bypass filter drawing up a quart of oil? "
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There won't be sufficient oil in the scenario you describe above. My stick shows slightly over the full mark on the stick when everything is drained into the pan. When I installed the bypass filter I simply added 1 quart to the mfg capacity spec. and noted where on the stick my oil level was.
For the bypass cannister & hose I just used 1 quart additional oil that was given as an estimate in the literature from Frantz or Motorguard (I have both). The vehicle manufacturer specs the oil level based upon the entire oil capacity (ie: after oil drains down into the pan). They obviously do not account for the additional capacity of the bypass cannister and hose.
--------
"If you have oil level on high mark after all the oil settles into the oil pan, how would you know there will be sufficient oil when the engine is running with the bypass filter drawing up a quart of oil? "
--------
There won't be sufficient oil in the scenario you describe above. My stick shows slightly over the full mark on the stick when everything is drained into the pan. When I installed the bypass filter I simply added 1 quart to the mfg capacity spec. and noted where on the stick my oil level was.
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