How much grease should be visible on contact surfaces of bevel gears

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Chain drive is looking better by the day.
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P.B.
 
I finally found a little more on Plastilube:


Basis: Mineral Oils with Bentonite
High Quality Grease

Product Description
Plastilube is an organophyllic, synthetic high quality grease based on super-refined mineral oil and devoid of metallic soap or fatty acid.

Plastilube exhibits the following characteristics:

- Free of metallic soaps
Metallic soaps are not resistant against alkalis. Due to its good pH stability Plastilube is resistant against soft alkalis and acids. Plastilube is not corrosive.
- Shock resistant
Plastilube's synthetic thickener is stable; it cannot be extruded from lubricating interface areas by sudden shock loads and extreme pressures. Plastilube extends lubricant service life and reduces
maintenance frequency.
- Water-insoluble

Plastilube is water-insoluble and will absorb up to half of its weight in water without breakdown or impairment of lubricating properties. Water will not dissolve Plastilube even at elevated temperatures, assuring excellent wash-off resistance under most adverse conditions.
- Nonmelting: Contrary to metallic soaps Plastilube has no melting point and thus does not drip off at a certain temperature.
-General-purpose versatility
Due to its characteristics mentioned above Plastilube can be used for many purposes.

Application Areas
Plastilube has proven advantageous as mounting paste against squeaking of drum and disc brakes. (Please watch instructions of car manufacturers!)

Furthermore Plastilube is particularly used for heavy duty applications, e.g. mill roll journals, high temperature valve stems, annealing furnace doors, conveyor systems etc. Other applications showing superior savings include machine guides, slides, bearings, enclosed gear boxes, pump compressors, etc.

Plastilube assures superior pumpability and work stability for long-life lubrication. Being free of entrained air, Plastilube is excellent for use in central lubrication systems.

Technical Data
Colour: brownish
Odour: none
Consistency: paste
Density: approx. 0.9 g/cm3
Solids: approx. 9 %
Penetration: 265Р295
Dropping point: none
In service temperature range: -45 C to 180 C


Can anybody tell from the above if this grease contains any EP additives, or if it maybe doesn't need any?
 
Judging from your description of the OEM grease(urea, EP, clings) it sounds like CV joint grease. Any parts store, small tube should last you a few years.
 
Well, one CV joint grease I researched is Red Line's, and it seems to profusely bleed oil.
 
If the grease starts bleeding all over the plac,e it will likely get into the internally geared hub and into the shiffter mechanism that is mounted right next to the hub gear. The hub is very finicky about the type lube used. Replacing the hub will cost ca $180 plus the cost of building a wheel.

Plastilube appears to have the perfect viscosity and tackiness, but if it has no EP additives, then I doubt it's suitable.
 
What about this stuff? It's a chain lube, but supposedly works for open gears, too:

Royal Purple Max-Chain® Product Description

Max-Chain® is recommended for chains and open gears operating in dusty environments. Max-Chain® is an advanced, high performance, synthetic lubricant that provides excellent protection for chains, open gears and exposed metal surfaces subjected to severe loading even in wet, acidic environments. Max-Chain® is a unique, thixotrophic lubricant blended with a solvent carrier. It can easily be applied by either spraying or brushing. Once applied, the carrier evaporates leaving a tenacious, dry, wax-like film. This non-tacky film effectively minimizes the collection of abrasive dust and other airborne contaminants. The EP properties of Max-Chain® greatly reduce wear and effectively extend equipment life. Max-Chain® can lubricate up to 400° F (after carrying solvent has evaporated) and provides excellent protection against rust and corrosion. Consult manufacturer for high temperature applications prior to using Max-Chain®.

Physical and Chemical Properties:
Physical State:Liquid
Color:Amber
Odor:Mineral Spirits
pH:Neutral
Boiling Range / Point ?F : 370-405
Pour Point ?F Flash Point F 145 Autoignition Temperature ?F>530
Evaporation Rate (Butyl Acetate = 1): 0.1
Vapor Pressure:0.5 mm Hg @ 70ßF
Percent Volatiles: 75
Density g/cm3: 0.82
Oxidizing Properties:None
Water Solubility:Insoluble
Vapor Density:Greater than air

 
quote:

It can easily be applied by either spraying or brushing. Once applied, the carrier evaporates leaving a tenacious, dry, wax-like film. This non-tacky film effectively minimizes the collection of abrasive dust and other airborne contaminants.

Odor:Mineral Spirits

Percent Volatiles: 75

This sounds a lot like a product that I use on guns called Eezox. It is mostly a carrier that evaporates away (%75 of the Royal Purple as above) and leaves what amounts to a wax behind. It does not appear to self heal so it is best used in an open environment where it can be easily reapplied (Royal Purple is also claiming this to be for "open" use).

quote:

Max-Chain® is a unique, thixotrophic lubricant

From a Site that I found:

quote:

Basically Thixotrophic additives are gelling agents. They give the product a 'gel' type status when not disturbed. The gel property goes away when the product is moved. For a paint, be it an enamel or an epoxy, the thixotrophic agent gels the product once the brushing or rolling of the product is complete. This 'gelling' affect means that the paint applied to the top of the wall will be as thick as the paint applied to the bottom of the wall. Water is not thixotrophic, that's why when you wet down a wall with water and come back a little while later, the bottom of the wall is wet and the top of the wall is dry. The water continued to flow down the wall, collecting at the bottom of the wall. It did not 'gel' or set after it was applied, thus letting gravity pull the water down.

Which appears to a very technical sounding name for something that simply gives an even coat.

quote:

Not sure what to make of that, but it looks like cool stuff.....

Probably a lot like the HD metal protector that Amsoil sells. Though I have not had a chance to use that product yet.

This type of thing doesn't sound like what you are after in a closed gear box. Especially since contamination of other areas is a concern, and the mineral spirit carrier (solvent) will easily spread everywhere.

I would still take a look at Voo Dew Goo from Muscle Product Corp. It is a grease especially designed for Bikes with a very low washout (<3.2). I would a least contact their technical people with your problem and see what they have to say.
 
Pablo, the Taiwanese are not yet talking!
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Tempest, I've not tried that Voo Dew Goo, but so far all the bike greases appeared to get squeezed out too much.

I remembered I had a some Red Line CV-2 from left from last year. I cleaned the gears off and regreased with that EP grease. It seemed a bit thinner than Plastilube and about the same viscous (at ca 65 F) as the AMSOIL Series 2000 Racing grease, but the Red Line appears to get squeezed out less (longer "fibers"?). I just rode the bike for ten miles, and the grease remained on the gears with all contact surfaces wet with some "thready" grease between the teeth. I'll post a few pictures later. The Red Line grease seems promising, but I'll reserve judgement until I have a few hundred miles on it.

By the way, my main concern is the pinion gear that meshes with the much larger crank gear. The pinion gear is the one that, due to its small size, is running very fast and that has the most trouble retaining lubed. The pinion gear has only about 1" diameter. It also seems to run hot, judging by its looks and smell.
 
gears do not need to have a lot of grease on them the oil bleed will lube them RL is good stuff I know of it as I said befor email and I will send a Tackifier to you add just a little will give you a sticky grease that will pull itself into the gears 100% compatible with RL grease.
bruce
 
Today I got some tackifier from bruce381. I added 3% by weight to a small batch of RL CV-2, and it increased the tackiness of the grease considerably. More grease remains now between the gear teeth, and the grease is sort of "thready." Thanks, Bruce, the small container should last for life of the bike. I'm going to send you a PM.
 
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