How much fuel gets in oil at startup?

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fuel in the oil is good, it helps to dissolve off the deposits. just give it a good run every few week, and your engine will be nice shiny and clean on the inside, plus you don't have to buy any "engine flush" or any gunk like that.
 
I used to run a Qjet without a choke even in the winter. The velocity thru those little primary venturis would atomize the fuel well enuff to work. Then I would put it on a flowbench at work to see what the fuel curve looked like. What was burning your eyes was the oxides of nitrogen(NOX). With EFI that is all in the past now.
 
Originally Posted By: kaboom10
Then I would put it on a flowbench at work to see what the fuel curve looked like. What was burning your eyes was the oxides of nitrogen(NOX). With EFI that is all in the past now.


That make no since at all. NOX is a a product of quench. There is no magic rabbits in the EFI hat. Just injectors blowing fuel in a plenum.
 
I was tuning a 377 street driven nascar style motor once. Cam was a circle track grind by Comp Cams. Couldn't stop the ultra rich condition so I had an emission test run. NOX was so high I put a splitter in the open plenum cross ram manifold to stop it. Carbs are so antiquated. Can't control fuel precise enuff to help. I can set pulse wirth, duration and timing on the injectors for super precise exhaust.
 
A good example of why you want your PCV system working!

You got to let that engine breath and get those fumes outta there.
 
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I can't do a thing with the EFI on my cars. How would you adjust it by using a chip? Other than that I think you're SOL.

On the other hand I can tune a QuadraJet with a wide band O2 meter, metering rods and jets. AFB's and Holley type carbs are easier to work with. Idle and off idle adjustments can be made with the off idle screws, air bleeds, etc... With a long duration high over lap cam sometimes the throttle blades have to be drilled to get it to idle on the idle circut and not the main circut.

With EFI and a big cam say 240ish or more @.050 you are stuck with a poor running car that burns your eyes, stalls and just over all runs bad. Unless you have a really nice high dollar aftermarket EFI that is tunable. But those don't come on regular cars like a Jeep or a Ford van from the factory.

Factory EFI is good for cold startup only.
 
Originally Posted By: KW
I can't do a thing with the EFI on my cars. How would you adjust it by using a chip? Other than that I think you're SOL.

On the other hand I can tune a QuadraJet with a wide band O2 meter, metering rods and jets. AFB's and Holley type carbs are easier to work with. Idle and off idle adjustments can be made with the off idle screws, air bleeds, etc... With a long duration high over lap cam sometimes the throttle blades have to be drilled to get it to idle on the idle circut and not the main circut.

With EFI and a big cam say 240ish or more @.050 you are stuck with a poor running car that burns your eyes, stalls and just over all runs bad. Unless you have a really nice high dollar aftermarket EFI that is tunable. But those don't come on regular cars like a Jeep or a Ford van from the factory.

Factory EFI is good for cold startup only.


I have a PRP program from SCT to go with my LiveWire and I also run a LMobil 1 with a A/F readout guage. All of it is hooked up to datalog. That's how I can tune using the tables in the ECM.

I love the adjustability of a Qjet or Edelbrock carb with the timing of the metering rods. All the time I worked at Holley I was a fuel curve calibrator. The ease(?) of tuning was not optimal but it paid the same no matter how long it took.

With a cam upgrade that goes out of the ECMs capability one must incorporate the 'failed MAF table' till the next table comes into play.

EFI is excellent for cold start up as it allows leaner mistures faster incorporation. The full is atomized instead of being in droplets until the engine warms up like a carb. I have my ECM going closed loop at 35 degrees under stock. Amazing what tuning the MAF table will do to improve performance and drivability.
 
Originally Posted By: KW
I can't do a thing with the EFI on my cars. How would you adjust it by using a chip? Other than that I think you're SOL.

On the other hand I can tune a QuadraJet with a wide band O2 meter, metering rods and jets. AFB's and Holley type carbs are easier to work with. Idle and off idle adjustments can be made with the off idle screws, air bleeds, etc... With a long duration high over lap cam sometimes the throttle blades have to be drilled to get it to idle on the idle circut and not the main circut.

With EFI and a big cam say 240ish or more @.050 you are stuck with a poor running car that burns your eyes, stalls and just over all runs bad. Unless you have a really nice high dollar aftermarket EFI that is tunable. But those don't come on regular cars like a Jeep or a Ford van from the factory.

Factory EFI is good for cold startup only.


The TwEECer, AFM PMS, and SCT devices all have the capability of adjusting things on EEC-IV Ford ECM's, with SCT making stuff for newer vehicles as well.

My Camshaft Innovations custom cam is ~230/240 (at .050), and ~.550/.550 (exact specs not given) and I expect it to run just fine with the chip that will be burnt for it.

My Town Car (laugh away) is cammed as well; runs a stock Mustang A9P ECM with a C&L MAF and idles just fine (albeit with a very sassy lope) and passes E-test with a pair of Magnaflow high-flow cats on it.

I know of SEVERAL Mustang guys with nothing more than an SCT chip to optimize the A/F curves and to provide the ECM with the new MAF transfer curve and updated injector size that pass E-test with flying colours and start and run like stock.

EFI (at least the Ford stuff) is VERY tunable and flexible in terms of performance mods. Don't knock it until you try it
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Originally Posted By: kaboom10
A 5.0 can move weight. I can break the tires loose with my 5.4L with no internal mods and 5000lbs of steel to move.


A buddy of mine's '04 Cobra, with a set of twins on it (SCT tuned; he's an SCT tuner) would blow the tires off (18" drag radials) in 4th with ease. Daily driven; the car made 750RWHP, on the dyno, playing with the boost, it had been mid 800's.
 
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