Engine starts warming up as soon as you start it. If you don't believe me, put a scanner on it and watch. Empirical evidence and physics is with me. Ambient temperature will determine how long will it take to reach the operating temperature.
How many of us oil nerds still "warm up" your car?
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
Engine starts warming up as soon as you start it. If you don't believe me, put a scanner on it and watch. Empirical evidence and physics is with me. Ambient temperature will determine how long will it take to reach the operating temperature.
If the air blowing out the vents is 10 degrees and the air outside is 5 degrees, is that really going to help?
Engine starts warming up as soon as you start it. If you don't believe me, put a scanner on it and watch. Empirical evidence and physics is with me. Ambient temperature will determine how long will it take to reach the operating temperature.
If the air blowing out the vents is 10 degrees and the air outside is 5 degrees, is that really going to help?
Ijust wait for the oil pressure to get up to normal. a couple seconds
With car parked tightly against garage door...... ski boat inside.... no frost because of garage overhang....
start and drop in gear immediately, and I am off. Engines past 300,000 miles (0W20 oil) with no obvious wear, so why would I warm them up?
If frost is on the windshield, I usally scrape ice before starting, so I do not have to get back out again.
Anybody who thinks the defroster will clear frost from the windshield in Iowa in much less then 5 minutes on a cold start is sadly misinformed. Not on any car I have owned, or used since the 1950's. Currently I involved with maintaining and transporting a commercial fleet (rentals) of about 400 cars.....nope, no miracle defrosters turn up here either.
We set a new record in this area a couple of years ago....-40.8 official...... now my Escort had to warm up 72 degrees before the coolant hits 32 above.... heck I was probably at work by then!!
start and drop in gear immediately, and I am off. Engines past 300,000 miles (0W20 oil) with no obvious wear, so why would I warm them up?
If frost is on the windshield, I usally scrape ice before starting, so I do not have to get back out again.
Anybody who thinks the defroster will clear frost from the windshield in Iowa in much less then 5 minutes on a cold start is sadly misinformed. Not on any car I have owned, or used since the 1950's. Currently I involved with maintaining and transporting a commercial fleet (rentals) of about 400 cars.....nope, no miracle defrosters turn up here either.
We set a new record in this area a couple of years ago....-40.8 official...... now my Escort had to warm up 72 degrees before the coolant hits 32 above.... heck I was probably at work by then!!
Originally Posted By: slammds15
***** this too much for some people to understand. Closed, ignorant, simple minds won't be changed by facts that can't be comprehended. Done.
I don't really know who your talking about and don't really care, but I will tell you my claims are based on my experiences. There have been many times where all, or at least almost all of my cars have been parked in the cold and I would simply get in the car and go without waiting for the engine to warm at all. What I ended up with each and every time I've done this is windows that fog over on the inside, even with the defrosters blowing full blast, and the windows didn't start clearing until the engine started generating some heat. It would typically take 3-5 minutes of driving before the windows would start to clear.
Now, you, or any of the others can say that all these vehicles had faulty HVAC systems (which over the last 40 years of owning vehicles, we're talking about at least 15-20 vehicles), but the chances of ALL of these vehicles having faulty HVAC systems are so remote, it isn't even possible. I know what I've experienced and it isn't what some of you are claiming...
***** this too much for some people to understand. Closed, ignorant, simple minds won't be changed by facts that can't be comprehended. Done.
I don't really know who your talking about and don't really care, but I will tell you my claims are based on my experiences. There have been many times where all, or at least almost all of my cars have been parked in the cold and I would simply get in the car and go without waiting for the engine to warm at all. What I ended up with each and every time I've done this is windows that fog over on the inside, even with the defrosters blowing full blast, and the windows didn't start clearing until the engine started generating some heat. It would typically take 3-5 minutes of driving before the windows would start to clear.
Now, you, or any of the others can say that all these vehicles had faulty HVAC systems (which over the last 40 years of owning vehicles, we're talking about at least 15-20 vehicles), but the chances of ALL of these vehicles having faulty HVAC systems are so remote, it isn't even possible. I know what I've experienced and it isn't what some of you are claiming...
Good luck going anywhere until our cars warm up enough to melt the frost on the outside of the windshields.
So this time of year, yeah, I warm 'em up for 5-10 minutes or so. Maybe even use the block heater on the van for a few hours.
Luckily this year's been pretty mild compared to most. But still.
So this time of year, yeah, I warm 'em up for 5-10 minutes or so. Maybe even use the block heater on the van for a few hours.
Luckily this year's been pretty mild compared to most. But still.
Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: slammds15
***** this too much for some people to understand. Closed, ignorant, simple minds won't be changed by facts that can't be comprehended. Done.
I don't really know who your talking about and don't really care, but I will tell you my claims are based on my experiences. There have been many times where all, or at least almost all of my cars have been parked in the cold and I would simply get in the car and go without waiting for the engine to warm at all. What I ended up with each and every time I've done this is windows that fog over on the inside, even with the defrosters blowing full blast, and the windows didn't start clearing until the engine started generating some heat. It would typically take 3-5 minutes of driving before the windows would start to clear.
Now, you, or any of the others can say that all these vehicles had faulty HVAC systems (which over the last 40 years of owning vehicles, we're talking about at least 15-20 vehicles), but the chances of ALL of these vehicles having faulty HVAC systems are so remote, it isn't even possible. I know what I've experienced and it isn't what some of you are claiming...
Restated
"LMAO! I guess no one here knows much about HVAC? So thermistors, pressure switches, pcm(BC) and temperature sensors play no part in air conditioning? So liquid coolant which absorbs heat and converts to gas, which is then drawn out, cooled and pressurized to be released again works at all temperatures??? well that's fantastic, where do I get one of those? The systems generally work in conjunction with one another, plus there is this whole physics thing with hot and cold air and absorption/saturation rates. Anyways that's besides the point..."
"So what you are saying is that there is no fog to begin with, you have the defroster on, which is exchanging air in the vehicle, not allowing moisture to saturate the air and condense on the "cold" windshield. I can agree to that. With no temperature or humidity difference no change will be noticeable. Remember your heater core receives coolant all the time whether your engine is "up to temp" or not. So even a few degrees will make a big difference. "
Originally Posted By: slammds15
***** this too much for some people to understand. Closed, ignorant, simple minds won't be changed by facts that can't be comprehended. Done.
I don't really know who your talking about and don't really care, but I will tell you my claims are based on my experiences. There have been many times where all, or at least almost all of my cars have been parked in the cold and I would simply get in the car and go without waiting for the engine to warm at all. What I ended up with each and every time I've done this is windows that fog over on the inside, even with the defrosters blowing full blast, and the windows didn't start clearing until the engine started generating some heat. It would typically take 3-5 minutes of driving before the windows would start to clear.
Now, you, or any of the others can say that all these vehicles had faulty HVAC systems (which over the last 40 years of owning vehicles, we're talking about at least 15-20 vehicles), but the chances of ALL of these vehicles having faulty HVAC systems are so remote, it isn't even possible. I know what I've experienced and it isn't what some of you are claiming...
Restated
"LMAO! I guess no one here knows much about HVAC? So thermistors, pressure switches, pcm(BC) and temperature sensors play no part in air conditioning? So liquid coolant which absorbs heat and converts to gas, which is then drawn out, cooled and pressurized to be released again works at all temperatures??? well that's fantastic, where do I get one of those? The systems generally work in conjunction with one another, plus there is this whole physics thing with hot and cold air and absorption/saturation rates. Anyways that's besides the point..."
"So what you are saying is that there is no fog to begin with, you have the defroster on, which is exchanging air in the vehicle, not allowing moisture to saturate the air and condense on the "cold" windshield. I can agree to that. With no temperature or humidity difference no change will be noticeable. Remember your heater core receives coolant all the time whether your engine is "up to temp" or not. So even a few degrees will make a big difference. "
What I am saying is that everyone is right. Look at your stand point a little closer will ya? Cold air doesn't do much, you are right. But with air movement, the humid air will not collect as frost/fog on the inside of the windshield. If the window is already frosty, Yes air that is warmer is needed to defrost quickly. Air of the same temp but dryer will remove it at a significantly slower rate. Air temp, air saturation and air flow all play a part. As mentioned before... coolant is always circulated through the heater core, even if it is 1deg warmer this will affect the rate at which frost/fog is dissipated. As for the outside of the windshield, with no air flow yes you need something above 0c to remove it. Agreed??? BUT! have you ever noticed that the sun will evaporate frost from your windshield even at -040c? with that said hers some more info confirming what the others had said. We are being literal, no one is disagreeing that warm air works much better.
Q:
Why does water evaporate if you leave it outside, even if it is not hot outside? Why does the surface area affect how fast the water evaporates? Is it because more is exposed to the heat or exposed to the air?
- Joshua (age 11)
K.B.Polk Elementary, Dallas, Texas
A:
There's an awful lot of room for water molecules in the air. Any that happen to fly up in the air are very unlikely to return once they wander a bit away from the starting place. Unless there are already a lot of water molecules in the air, the flow will be one way, from the liquid to the gas. In order to keep there from being net evaporation, there must be a flow back from the air to the water.
The concentration of water molecules in the air is often given by the relative humidity. At 100% relative humidity, the flow of molecules from a cup of water into the air will just balance the flow from the air to the cup, if they're both at the same temperature. It's true that the rate at which the water molecules leaves goes up quickly as the water gets hotter and the rate at which the molecules returns only goes up a little as the air gets hotter. So the evaporation is much faster when the water is hotter, and 100 % relative humidity means a higher concentration of water in the air when it's hot than when it's cold. So that's probably where the impression arises that water shouldn't evaporate when it's cold.
One interesting case of cold water evaporating occurs in your freezer. Ice cubes directly evaporate, although we use the word "sublimate" instead. Even though ice is a solid, its molecules are rattling around and occasionally fly off the surface, just as they do in a liquid.
All the evaporation occurs at the surface, so that's a big reason why the rate depends on the surface area. It's true that the evaporation cools the water, which would reduce the evaporation rate if no heat flowed in. As you say, heat can flow into the exposed surface, but it can also flow in from the container. So I bet that's a less important reason for the surface area to matter.
Mike W.
Follow-Up #1: cold evaporation
Q:
why we have evaporation in cold water i.e. from water gullies in winter and from ice when we take a piece out of freezer and why this increases when we low the temperature???
- Pedram
Tehran
A:
As we discussed in the previous answer, when water is cold, even frozen, the molecules are still rattling around. Occasionally, one gets enough energy to break loose and fly off the surface. The colder the water or ice, the less often this happens.
You raise an interesting point when you ask why evaporation happens more at lower temperature. Generally speaking, it doesn't. However, if a particular weather pattern sometimes brings very dry cold air and sometimes moist warm air, you could get more net evaporation in the cold. The reason would be that in these particular conditions the warm weather would allow more water to flow back from the air to the liquid. The net evaporation rate depends on the difference between the rate molecules leave the surface and the rate they come in from the gas.
Mike W.
(published on 08/23/09)
Follow-Up #2: water to vapor
Q:
The books teach us that water changes phase into a gas at 100 degrees C. But that's not true because cool water in a saucer also evaporates. Why do the books not include this in the section that covers phase change? Is phase change at standard temperatures a hoax? Can you explain?
- Alistair
South Africa
A:
Since that question confused almost all of us when we first learned about phase changes, I'm very glad you asked.
The 100°C phase change occurs for pure water at a fixed pressure of 1 atm. Above 100°C, molecules leaving the liquid outnumber those going from the gas to the liquid. The gas grows until all the liquid is gone, and the container (at fixed pressure) expands. Below 100°C the opposite happens.
If you kept the container at a lower pressure, the same thing would happen but at a lower temperature.
What's different about the saucer case? There the pressure of pure water in the gas is much less than 1 atm. The total pressure is 1 atm, but most of it comes from air molecules. So evaporation will beat condensation at much lower temperatures than 100°C.
Notice that if what I'm saying is right, then whether the amount of water in the saucer grows or shrinks should depend not only on the temperature but also on how much water vapor is in the nearby air. At a certain water vapor concentration (called 100% relative humidity) the evaporation and condensation just balance.
Mike W.
http://van.physics.illinois.edu/qa/listing.php?id=1474
Here are some formulas to prove that even air of the same temperature with lower moisture saturation can actually dry or defrost windows.
http://www.natmus.dk/cons/tp/atmcalc/atmoclc1.htm
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/humidity-ratio-air-d_686.html
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/water-vapor-saturation-pressure-air-d_689.html
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/moist-air-saturation-d_685.html
This last one is just to help illustrate.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dew_point
Again... not saying you are wrong, I agree that warm air does work better. The aforementioned IS physics and proves their points along with yours, your singular view point is what is keeping you from seeing this. I know this may make me look like an "A" hole to you, but it's being said regardless.
Q:
Why does water evaporate if you leave it outside, even if it is not hot outside? Why does the surface area affect how fast the water evaporates? Is it because more is exposed to the heat or exposed to the air?
- Joshua (age 11)
K.B.Polk Elementary, Dallas, Texas
A:
There's an awful lot of room for water molecules in the air. Any that happen to fly up in the air are very unlikely to return once they wander a bit away from the starting place. Unless there are already a lot of water molecules in the air, the flow will be one way, from the liquid to the gas. In order to keep there from being net evaporation, there must be a flow back from the air to the water.
The concentration of water molecules in the air is often given by the relative humidity. At 100% relative humidity, the flow of molecules from a cup of water into the air will just balance the flow from the air to the cup, if they're both at the same temperature. It's true that the rate at which the water molecules leaves goes up quickly as the water gets hotter and the rate at which the molecules returns only goes up a little as the air gets hotter. So the evaporation is much faster when the water is hotter, and 100 % relative humidity means a higher concentration of water in the air when it's hot than when it's cold. So that's probably where the impression arises that water shouldn't evaporate when it's cold.
One interesting case of cold water evaporating occurs in your freezer. Ice cubes directly evaporate, although we use the word "sublimate" instead. Even though ice is a solid, its molecules are rattling around and occasionally fly off the surface, just as they do in a liquid.
All the evaporation occurs at the surface, so that's a big reason why the rate depends on the surface area. It's true that the evaporation cools the water, which would reduce the evaporation rate if no heat flowed in. As you say, heat can flow into the exposed surface, but it can also flow in from the container. So I bet that's a less important reason for the surface area to matter.
Mike W.
Follow-Up #1: cold evaporation
Q:
why we have evaporation in cold water i.e. from water gullies in winter and from ice when we take a piece out of freezer and why this increases when we low the temperature???
- Pedram
Tehran
A:
As we discussed in the previous answer, when water is cold, even frozen, the molecules are still rattling around. Occasionally, one gets enough energy to break loose and fly off the surface. The colder the water or ice, the less often this happens.
You raise an interesting point when you ask why evaporation happens more at lower temperature. Generally speaking, it doesn't. However, if a particular weather pattern sometimes brings very dry cold air and sometimes moist warm air, you could get more net evaporation in the cold. The reason would be that in these particular conditions the warm weather would allow more water to flow back from the air to the liquid. The net evaporation rate depends on the difference between the rate molecules leave the surface and the rate they come in from the gas.
Mike W.
(published on 08/23/09)
Follow-Up #2: water to vapor
Q:
The books teach us that water changes phase into a gas at 100 degrees C. But that's not true because cool water in a saucer also evaporates. Why do the books not include this in the section that covers phase change? Is phase change at standard temperatures a hoax? Can you explain?
- Alistair
South Africa
A:
Since that question confused almost all of us when we first learned about phase changes, I'm very glad you asked.
The 100°C phase change occurs for pure water at a fixed pressure of 1 atm. Above 100°C, molecules leaving the liquid outnumber those going from the gas to the liquid. The gas grows until all the liquid is gone, and the container (at fixed pressure) expands. Below 100°C the opposite happens.
If you kept the container at a lower pressure, the same thing would happen but at a lower temperature.
What's different about the saucer case? There the pressure of pure water in the gas is much less than 1 atm. The total pressure is 1 atm, but most of it comes from air molecules. So evaporation will beat condensation at much lower temperatures than 100°C.
Notice that if what I'm saying is right, then whether the amount of water in the saucer grows or shrinks should depend not only on the temperature but also on how much water vapor is in the nearby air. At a certain water vapor concentration (called 100% relative humidity) the evaporation and condensation just balance.
Mike W.
http://van.physics.illinois.edu/qa/listing.php?id=1474
Here are some formulas to prove that even air of the same temperature with lower moisture saturation can actually dry or defrost windows.
http://www.natmus.dk/cons/tp/atmcalc/atmoclc1.htm
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/humidity-ratio-air-d_686.html
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/water-vapor-saturation-pressure-air-d_689.html
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/moist-air-saturation-d_685.html
This last one is just to help illustrate.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dew_point
Again... not saying you are wrong, I agree that warm air does work better. The aforementioned IS physics and proves their points along with yours, your singular view point is what is keeping you from seeing this. I know this may make me look like an "A" hole to you, but it's being said regardless.
Last edited:
Grampi, I suspect that many of the southerners, or some of the northerners in this comment string do not realize that the Air Conditioning compressor never comes on..... to dehumidify the air... on many, or any cars when the temperature hovers near zero. Generally, the pressure switch will not let them freeze up, so the compressor is disabled below about 35 degrees ambient.
When a family of 4, and a dog (maybe a hot cup of coffee steaming away) pile into a cold car the windshield frosts over inside immediately, and NOTHING clears it until heat arrives!!
Or, maybe all 400 cars in our rental fleet are broken, as per some of our comments indicate!!
When a family of 4, and a dog (maybe a hot cup of coffee steaming away) pile into a cold car the windshield frosts over inside immediately, and NOTHING clears it until heat arrives!!
Or, maybe all 400 cars in our rental fleet are broken, as per some of our comments indicate!!
Originally Posted By: fsskier
Grampi, I suspect that many of the southerners, or some of the northerners in this comment string do not realize that the Air Conditioning compressor never comes on..... to dehumidify the air... on many, or any cars when the temperature hovers near zero. Generally, the pressure switch will not let them freeze up, so the compressor is disabled below about 35 degrees ambient.
When a family of 4, and a dog (maybe a hot cup of coffee steaming away) pile into a cold car the windshield frosts over inside immediately, and NOTHING clears it until heat arrives!!
Or, maybe all 400 cars in our rental fleet are broken, as per some of our comments indicate!!
Exactly! Thank you for a short concise summary - which is exactly what I was thinking.
Here in Southern Ca. in the wintertime we often have a variety of weather conditions. Some mornings if the air is very moist and the temp. drops enough we will have ice on the windshield. Yes we could probably order an ice scraper off of ebay (I don't remember seeing anyone selling here in the stores) or we can turn the defroster on and use the heat to melt the ice. Yes it takes at least 2 - 3 minutes (sometimes more depending on vehicle) to get enough heat to start melting the ice.
I would agree that driving will produce heat faster, but personally I don't like to pull away from the curb before at least 60 percent or more of the windshield is cleared.
HOWEVER, other mornings when I leave at 5:30 am, the air is dry, and I can pretty much start the car and drive off.
Also you nailed it about the a/c compressor - I have noticed it in everyday events. The a/c clutch on the Mercury makes a load snap when it engages - it's pretty easy to hear.
I might also add that even when you are approaching that temp. (say under 50 degrees F. or so) the compressor will kick off very quickly (yes I know all the reasons why, just don't think it's worth explaining them here.)
Point is, when the compressor clutch kicks out so quickly it does very little to dry the air. Yes it MAY help some, but in my opinion very little.
Grampi, I suspect that many of the southerners, or some of the northerners in this comment string do not realize that the Air Conditioning compressor never comes on..... to dehumidify the air... on many, or any cars when the temperature hovers near zero. Generally, the pressure switch will not let them freeze up, so the compressor is disabled below about 35 degrees ambient.
When a family of 4, and a dog (maybe a hot cup of coffee steaming away) pile into a cold car the windshield frosts over inside immediately, and NOTHING clears it until heat arrives!!
Or, maybe all 400 cars in our rental fleet are broken, as per some of our comments indicate!!
Exactly! Thank you for a short concise summary - which is exactly what I was thinking.
Here in Southern Ca. in the wintertime we often have a variety of weather conditions. Some mornings if the air is very moist and the temp. drops enough we will have ice on the windshield. Yes we could probably order an ice scraper off of ebay (I don't remember seeing anyone selling here in the stores) or we can turn the defroster on and use the heat to melt the ice. Yes it takes at least 2 - 3 minutes (sometimes more depending on vehicle) to get enough heat to start melting the ice.
I would agree that driving will produce heat faster, but personally I don't like to pull away from the curb before at least 60 percent or more of the windshield is cleared.
HOWEVER, other mornings when I leave at 5:30 am, the air is dry, and I can pretty much start the car and drive off.
Also you nailed it about the a/c compressor - I have noticed it in everyday events. The a/c clutch on the Mercury makes a load snap when it engages - it's pretty easy to hear.
I might also add that even when you are approaching that temp. (say under 50 degrees F. or so) the compressor will kick off very quickly (yes I know all the reasons why, just don't think it's worth explaining them here.)
Point is, when the compressor clutch kicks out so quickly it does very little to dry the air. Yes it MAY help some, but in my opinion very little.
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Originally Posted By: Virtuoso
Good luck going anywhere until our cars warm up enough to melt the frost on the outside of the windshields.
So this time of year, yeah, I warm 'em up for 5-10 minutes or so. Maybe even use the block heater on the van for a few hours.
Luckily this year's been pretty mild compared to most. But still.
That's what the washers are for...a couple squirts and I'm ready to go.
Good luck going anywhere until our cars warm up enough to melt the frost on the outside of the windshields.
So this time of year, yeah, I warm 'em up for 5-10 minutes or so. Maybe even use the block heater on the van for a few hours.
Luckily this year's been pretty mild compared to most. But still.
That's what the washers are for...a couple squirts and I'm ready to go.
Originally Posted By: fsskier
Grampi, I suspect that many of the southerners, or some of the northerners in this comment string do not realize that the Air Conditioning compressor never comes on..... to dehumidify the air... on many, or any cars when the temperature hovers near zero. Generally, the pressure switch will not let them freeze up, so the compressor is disabled below about 35 degrees ambient.
When a family of 4, and a dog (maybe a hot cup of coffee steaming away) pile into a cold car the windshield frosts over inside immediately, and NOTHING clears it until heat arrives!!
Or, maybe all 400 cars in our rental fleet are broken, as per some of our comments indicate!!
The A/C in my Magnum came on down to maybe 20 degrees (I heard it cycle).
Grampi, I suspect that many of the southerners, or some of the northerners in this comment string do not realize that the Air Conditioning compressor never comes on..... to dehumidify the air... on many, or any cars when the temperature hovers near zero. Generally, the pressure switch will not let them freeze up, so the compressor is disabled below about 35 degrees ambient.
When a family of 4, and a dog (maybe a hot cup of coffee steaming away) pile into a cold car the windshield frosts over inside immediately, and NOTHING clears it until heat arrives!!
Or, maybe all 400 cars in our rental fleet are broken, as per some of our comments indicate!!
The A/C in my Magnum came on down to maybe 20 degrees (I heard it cycle).
I still warm up my car every morning, 5+ min . Run out with my sleep cloth 
, turn the key, get in brush teeth, change cloth and get in car drive to work . Its a habit, and no matter wat kind car I own, brand new or old car, i alway gonna let it warm up in the morning and let it warm up after it sit for a while.
, turn the key, get in brush teeth, change cloth and get in car drive to work . Its a habit, and no matter wat kind car I own, brand new or old car, i alway gonna let it warm up in the morning and let it warm up after it sit for a while.
My wife does the same thing with her 06 Scion tC. She usually gets in and blasts off, regardless of how cold the engine is. I got her used to starting the car and then finish getting ready for work. That gives the block a good 5-10 mins to warm up the oil before she gets in and takes off, tires squealing.
The thought of high RPMs (we're close to the highway) when the coolant temp gauge is still BELOW the "C" mark give me shivers.
The thought of high RPMs (we're close to the highway) when the coolant temp gauge is still BELOW the "C" mark give me shivers.
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
That's what the washers are for...a couple squirts and I'm ready to go.
Many winter mornings are too cold to do that without warm defrost air to keep it from glazing over. This is with -20F rated stuff.
That's what the washers are for...a couple squirts and I'm ready to go.
Many winter mornings are too cold to do that without warm defrost air to keep it from glazing over. This is with -20F rated stuff.
I think what threads like this, in length, show is the no 1 rule/1 size fits all. You have to re-think things at times, but generally need to do what 'you' need to for your app/circumstances.
Originally Posted By: Cutehumor
I don't warm up the car. it's wasting gas money. gas will be $4/gallon soon. I just drive gently the first few miles until the coolant gauge is in the normal range. never heard about an engine failure yet.
Considering on average I do a 5-10 minute warm up 3-4 days a week during the winter months, I'd say that burns probably less than 1/4 tank of gas over the entire winter. Most people waste more gas than that in one week by driving 15-20 MPH over the speed limit on the highway...
I don't warm up the car. it's wasting gas money. gas will be $4/gallon soon. I just drive gently the first few miles until the coolant gauge is in the normal range. never heard about an engine failure yet.
Considering on average I do a 5-10 minute warm up 3-4 days a week during the winter months, I'd say that burns probably less than 1/4 tank of gas over the entire winter. Most people waste more gas than that in one week by driving 15-20 MPH over the speed limit on the highway...
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